One Week In St. Martin

St. Martin is only 37 square miles and is divided into two parts: French and Dutch (the Dutch part is called Sint Maarten). The promise of the European influence was a main factor in my choice of this particular location, and I wasn't disappointed. The French side is very French. The Dutch side, while definitely having a Dutch influence, is somewhat more typically Caribbean with a fairly strong American flavor, complete with Burger Kings and other icons of US culture.

The weather was close to perfect, with highs in the low 80s in the day and the evenings cooler and quite breezy. The sun is very intense. I used a heavy sunscreen constantly and still got quite tan, with some sunburn in a few spots that I missed. It rained a bit during the last two days of my stay, but it was very localized and brief. Actually, I enjoyed the brief rain showers. The crowds deserted the beaches and the cool air and rain felt good.

I booked the trip with Travel Charter, through a local travel agent. I chose to stay at the Blue Bay Resort, based on mostly positive things I read both online and in travel books. The Blue Bay recently changed to (mostly) all-inclusive format, and with it came a name change from Mont Vernon. (Travel Charter literature still lists it with the old name). The airline was supposed to be Laker Air but in fact was actually ATA, nonstop from the always pleasant Detroit Metropolitan Airport (avoiding Northwest at DTW does make it considerably more pleasant) to Princess Julianna Airport in St. Martin, with a stop in Antigua on the way back. The ATA staff was very professional and courteous, with the only glitches being a delay in Detroit because a flight attendant was called in on short notice and hadn't arrived by the scheduled departure time, a drunken idiot and his luggage which had to be thrown off the returning flight just as we were about to depart (the airline did the right thing here in correcting a problem that should have been avoided had the airport staff been paying attention), and a very chilly L-1011 on the returning flight. Apparently only the rear of the plane was freezing: the front was too hot and they were having problems balancing the temperature. It was somewhat amusing to see big, thick clouds of condesation spewing out of the overhead air vents and down into the cabin.

Princess Juliana Airport, located on the Dutch side, is small but quite busy. The approach to the airport is interesting because a popular beach is right at the runway threshold. Planes pass very low overhead and land at just the other side of a fence. A sign on the beach warns of physical danger from landing planes and the possibility of jet blast from planes taking off. I briefly visited the beach later in the week and saw several planes land. Air France has 747 service from Paris and it would have been really spectacular to see one of those pass a few feet overhead.

After quickly going through customs and immigration and not so quickly picking up my luggage, a Travel Charter rep directed us to a waiting bus.

The bus trip from the airport to Blue Bay gave me a good chance to get a quick look at the island, since they are on pretty much opposite sides. I saw a bit of the countryside and some towns (we went through Marigot). I hadn't arranged to rent a car but I decided it would probably be worthwhile to get one at some point.

After arriving at Blue Bay, I checked in and was given the option of upgrading to all-inclusive for an additional $40/day and did so. Overall, I'm quite happy that I did, mostly because it was extremely convenient and the buffet-style meals were very good. I didn't think I'd be able to consume $40 worth/day but I'll bet that I did. For me, the main downside of all-inclusive is that it would have been fun to sample some of the by all accounts very fine restaraunts on St. Martin. At least for my non-gourmet tastes, though, the food at Blue Bay was excellent. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner were served buffet-style, with two sittings for dinner (7 and 9 PM). Despite only having recently switched to all-inclusive, things went remarkably smoothly. The staff was always very attentive and polite and I ate better than I have in a long time.

After checking in, I was directed to my room and, after having a bit of trouble unlocking the door (until I discovered The Trick), unpacked, checked the progress of the Yugoslavian bombing on CNN, and pretty much collapsed. I was very pleased with the room. Big, bright, and very pleasant. A bit later I went for a walk down to Orient Beach, decided I had made a good choice in vacation spots, and got very lost trying to find my room again. Blue Bay consists of many buildings and it took me a bit of time to get my bearings.

After a good night's sleep, my vacation proper really began and I thoroughly enjoyed it. Orient Beach is a mile long, with Blue Bay on the Northern end, Club Orient on the Southern end, and lots of things going on in-betweeen. The entire beach is clothing-optional, which adds some interest, and gets rather busy mid-day. Early mornings are a good time to take a walk and I did so every day, after a good breakfast. Actually, I typically walked the entire length of the beach at least a couple of times a day. The sun, the sand, the water, and the people-watching are excellent. There are a number of stands along the beach where food and trinkets of various kinds can be purchased. I discovered that if you attempt to use a chair and a beach umbrella in the beach area of a hotel where I wasn't a guest, it usually didn't take long for someone to come out and ask me to pay (typically) $5 each for use for the day. Not bad, except it gets annoying if you only plan on spending a short time in one particular spot and move on to another. The beach itself though is public, as are all beaches on St. Martin.

People are in general very friendly and it's an international crowd. There seemed to be a lot of French Canadians staying at Blue Bay, and Italian, British, French, and Spanish people are common. I enjoyed the diverse group. There also were some American cruise ship types who seemed to relish their self-appointed role of clueless rubes ("Look Martha, she's topless! Wait 'till I tell the guys at the Moose Lodge!"), but in general it was a good group. One particular positive is that, despite the time of year, I didn't see any evidence of the Spring Break crowd that plagues some vacation spots.

I ended up renting a car for the second half of my one-week stay. This proved to be a good idea because it was fun to get out and about and see the rest of the island. Car rental is pretty cheap: I got a Kia from Hertz for $49/day. I vistited Marigot, which looks very much like a town on the French Mediterranean. There's lots of good shopping there and I picked up some gifts to bring back. Supposedly the prices are quite good, though I don't have much basis for comparison, not having bought Baccarat crystal or a Fendi purse in the US recently. The selection certainly is outstanding. I spent some time in a jewelery store ogling the Ebel and Breitling watches.

I also took a quick look at Grand Case, a small village on the northwestern side of the island. It appeared that at least every other building housed a good restaurant. I plan on investigating further on the next trip.

On my last night there, I was treated to an incredible moon rise over the Caribbean and a pretty spectacular fireworks display on the beach. I don't know what the occasion was for the fireworks but it was a fine ending to a very pleasant and relaxing trip. I look forward to going back sometime soon.

Snorkeling In Ambergris Caye, Belize

AMBERGRIS CAYE OVERALL

After years of "adventurous" vacations in which we would usually travel hundreds of miles off the beaten track, we decided to just stay in one place and relax this time. I am starting law school in the fall so this would be our last trip for several years, and we really needed to de-stress.


I'm glad we chose Ambergris Caye. We had a great time despite some rain. After visiting Caye Caulker and the North end of Ambergris Caye, I think we would've been happier in either of those two places -- both were a little quieter, cleaner, and more laid-back. But San Pedro was fun too. And if you like to go out for dinner and hit the bars, it's the place to be. It's also in close proximity to all the tourist-related services.

Of all the things we did there, I'd have to say the snorkeling was the most amazing. I haven't snorkeled since I was a little kid, and the sea life was just breathtaking. It's worth a trip just for that reason. I can see why divers flock there.

Part of why we chose Ambergris Caye is because we like to avoid the over-Americanized "resort"-type places a la Hawaii, Cayman Islands, etc. But Ambergris Caye ended up being more resort-y than we expected. Not to say it wasn't enjoyable, just different. And with all the development, it will clearly become even more of a resort area as tourism continues to explode.

GETTING THERE

We got a great deal on tickets from Grupo Taca, and I've never had better service on an airline. It was a pleasant surprise after some folks had warned us about "Take A Chance Airlines!" But the flights were on time to the minute and early on most legs. It's the first time I've ever flown out of SFO on time. The only time we were late was on our return trip, because a belligerent couple had to be forcibly removed from the airplane before takeoff! The entertainment value was almost worth the 45-minute delay. :)

We flew in through San Salvador and were surprised at how nice and modern the airport there is. My boss was a reporter there during the revolution and remembers it quite differently -- he got a real kick out of the pictures I took!

Tropic Air was also very convenient and professional. And I'd say it's worth it to fly to Ambergris Caye just for the spectacular views. Remember that when you arrive at the Int'l terminal in Belize you have to go through a door marked "No Admittance" to get to the Tropic Air terminal -- tricky!

BANANA BEACH

We stayed at the Banana Beach Resort south of San Pedro, which I thought was very nice. The full kitchen plus living room was wonderful to have. We hadn't been sure about spending the extra $25 a night for the "ocean view room," but it was definitely worth it. We spent hours just relaxing in the breeze on our own private veranda, taking in the gorgeous view.

A few people on the Ambergris Caye message board we participated in had been asking questions about the construction project going on there. They're apparently building a whole new wing onto the hotel. Here's a picture of what's happening:

I felt a little deceived that management didn't disclose this when we made our reservations. But the noise really wasn't much of a problem.

One thing that did bother me was that was that checkout was at 11am and they refused to let us check out a couple of hours late (our flight was at 3pm and we wanted to do one last half-day snorkel trip and be able to shower before leaving). I thought that was rather stingy, considering we'd just spent almost $1000 there. Nevertheless, overall I would definitely recommend it.

CURRENCY

Every place we went took U.S. dollars and Belize dollars interchangeably. You could even pay in half of one, half of the other. The post office was the only exception I encountered. Bring all the cash you'll need, though, I understand there aren't any ATMs. I didn't see any.

THE DOGS

There are scruffy, stray dogs everywhere around San Pedro. As a dog "mommy" and former SPCA volunteer, I found that really hard to take. With no inoculations I'm sure many suffer and die from painful diseases. Some were covered with mange. Others were just skin and bones. It was heartbreaking to see every day. There is a group called the Saga Society that works to help the animals, you can send them a donation or buy a really beautiful fundraising calendar at http://www.ambergriscaye.com/sagasociety/. You can also donate in little wooden boxes set up around town.

THE TOURIST CROWD

Frankly, we were shocked at how many people brought small children to Ambergris Caye. It's something we'd strongly consider before returning. It's really hard to enjoy a romantic moment watching the sun rise on your private veranda when there's a baby screaming ten feet away! We barely got to use the pool because there were always kids shrieking and jumping in and out of it. That may be partly due to the fact that we stayed in a hotel with in-room kitchens (I imagine that attracts more people with kids), but we saw similar problems at Capt. Morgan's Retreat and other places that are marketed as being romantic and upscale. Although we loved Ambergris Caye, next time we may choose somewhere less "kid-friendly."

Other than that, we liked the mix of tourists. There were a lot of people our age (20s-30s) and most were very friendly. Sure, there were a fair amount of cruise-ship-type folks, but we still met many people we had a lot in common with, which always adds to the fun!

THE BEACHES

The crystal-clear water off the reef is not replicated near the shore. The water's semitransparent... you can see the bottom until you get about waist-deep. It reminded me a lot of where I grew up in Southern California. The waves are small due to the reef.

Some people had been concerned about sea grass, but you can easily spot the dark patches where it grows and swim around it. Even if you don't, it's just grass -- not really a problem in my book.

The beaches are fine for laying on, just make sure your hotel has someone to rake away the dead sea grass each day. In areas where it's not removed, it piles up and gets stinky.

WEATHER

We were there 7 days, and the first two it was overcast with showers, temperatures in the 60s to low 70s. The third day it rained. The remaining four days were sunny and in the 80s. There was always at least a bit of wind, and the humidity was high (which I *love* so that was a plus!).

I should add a note about the sun -- don't underestimate its power so close to the equator! Even with gobs of sunblock, my fair-skinned hubby got burned. I never burn, so I used only #4 sunscreen our first day, and I got fried! If you burn easily, be sure to bring hats, light long-sleeve shirts, etc.

TOURS WE TOOK

I don't like talking about how much things cost, but I know how beneficial it is to people planning a trip, so I've included per-person tour prices in U.S. dollars. Oddly, we booked all our trips through Tuff Enuff, but the boats and guides were always from Searious. I'm not sure how that worked, or if they had an agreement, or what. Here's what we did:

Altun Ha Tour ($60)

We hadn't planned on going inland but it rained that day, so what the heck! Our guide from Searious, Willy, was very knowledgeable.

The boat ride up the Northern River through the mangroves was really interesting. We debarked at the ramshackle village of Bomba and took a bus to the ruins, which are quite impressive.

Later we got back on the bus and spent a couple of hours at the Maruba Resort and Spa, a beautiful rainforest-themed place. You could get lunch or a massage/facial/etc. Those options were pretty pricey so we grabbed some Rum Punches from the bar and hung out by their gorgeous pool. Later we relaxed in the secluded hot tub, which was surrounded by plants, as the cool rain fell on our faces.

Manatee Tour ($75)

Willy again took us on this trip. We went South to Swallow Caye and saw five adult manatees and a baby. They came right up to the boat!

Then we cut across to Goff's Caye, a gorgeous tiny island that was the Belize of my dreams. Crystal-clear water and snorkeling right off the shore. After snorkeling, Willy prepared a delicious BBQ lunch for us.

We got back in the boat later to check out a place where sharks and rays congregate (not Shark Ray Alley) and we marveled as Willy fed them and they swarmed around us. I was really surprised the sting rays didn't try and sting us!

Finally, we stopped to check out Caye Caulker for about an hour -- it was more laid-back than Ambergris Caye, with a younger crowd. As I say, I kind of wish we'd stayed there instead!

Mexico Rocks/Tres Cocos Half-Day Snorkel ($25)

We were the only two people on this half-day trip so we kind of got to go where we wanted. Our guide, Alfredo, was a snorkeler, and seemed genuinely interested in showing off his favorite spots. Tres Cocos was spectacular! It was very shallow. We spotted a nurse shark hiding in a cave, a Queen Triggerfish, tons of gorgeous parrotfish, and lots of barracuda!

Hol Chan/Shark Ray Alley Half-Day Snorkel ($20)

We again had the boat to ourselves! I'm glad we went to Hol Chan last (day before we left) because everywhere else paled in comparison. Yes, it was crowded. But it was so worth it. We saw every kind of marine animal you can think of.

Shark Ray Alley was SWARMING with people, but again, it was worth visiting. The snorkeling on the reef in that area was also spectacular. In addition to many other things, we saw a big moray eel that came out of his cave hoping for a snack (our guide had sardines). My hubby carelessly got too close and almost lost a finger! :)

Although our guide, Geoffrey, was informative, we were kind of irritated that he forced us to leave Hol Chan before we were ready (since we were the only couple on the trip, I didn't see why we couldn't stay longer before moving on to Shark Ray Alley). Also, the half-day trip was supposed to be 9:00-12:30, and he had us back by 11:30. I could easily have snorkeled an hour longer!

Anyway, despite the crowds, Hol Chan is NOT TO BE MISSED!

PLACES WE ATE:

* La Popular Bakery: YUM YUM YUM! We kept coming back. It's geared towards locals and is delicious and dirt-cheap.
* Fido's: We just had pina coladas and split a rice and beans dish. Other people we met on the trip found it overrated, but we thought what we had was delicious, and the service was very friendly.
* Mango's: My favorite place we ate. It's so cheerful and friendly, too. I felt bad for the owners, though -- the *day* we arrived, a new law had gone into effect preventing them from serving booze before 6pm because there's a school across the street. I could tell it was hurting business. But the huge selection of (non-alcoholic) smoothies more than made up for it, in my book!
* Jambel Jerk Pit: VERY spicy, but good and authentic. Great Caribbean atmosphere.
* Rico's: Beautiful setting -- we had their breakfast buffet the day we left. It wasn't particularly exciting, pretty much the usual breakfast buffet fare, but was good and satisfying.

Well I don't want to go on forever, but those were my general thoughts on Ambergris Caye. Would we go back? I'd like to! But it's changing so quickly, I know in 10 or even 5 years, it will be a completely different place. Hopefully the change will be for the better!

Bequia Trip: Geography, Weather, Restaurants, Safety

Geography

Bequia is the largest and most northerly of over 30 tropical islands islands and cays known as the Grenadines that stretch some 60 miles from St. Vincent down to Grenada through some of the bluest and clearest waters in the Caribbean.

The island of Bequia lays 9 miles off the southern coast of St. Vincent (which in turn is just south of St. Lucia and 90 miles west of Barbados) and although it is the largest of the Grenadines, it still covers only 7 square miles.


Weather

The simple answer to that is HOT! Bequia is almost on the equator and is very much a tropical island. In Summer (it's northern hemisphere so it's the same as Europe and North America) temperatures rise to the mid to high 90's and in Winter it's still deliciously warm with temperatures around the mid to high 80's.


Isn't that unbearable?

Not really... first of all St. Vincent and the Grenadines are on the end of the "trade winds" which first brought European sailors and explorers to this part of the world. That means there's pretty much always a breeze blowing, and that helps cool you enormously.

Also, on Bequia you're never far from the sea, and that means as you're sitting enjoying a coffee as you rest from your shopping for provisions, there's nothing to stop you from simply leaving your bags by your seat, taking a quiet plunge, and then relaxing with your drink as you watch the world go by.

Plus there is more and more accommodation on the island that offers you air conditioning. This will always be at an extra charge and is normally metered so you can use as little or as much as you wish.

When is the "hurricane season"?

Every single native on the island will tell you there's no such thing... and even in the "wet" season, most of the violent storms tend to miss this part of the Caribbean.

The "wet" season (it can rain on Bequia anytime, any season, and I particularly like to see a storm or too while I'm there) is around July to October.

Don't let this put you off as it's the time I tend to go anyway and there's an awful lot of sunshine around, and bear in mind that there is no fresh water system on Bequia other than that collected by rainwater tanks on every home, house, shop and hotel, so rain on Bequia is a good thing!

A favourite poster in Bequia ablutions is:

"If it's yellow, let it mellow, if it's brown, flush it down!"

This is a typically humorous Caribbean way to remind you that water is a precious commodity on the island.


Is there much difference between Winter and Summer?

I guess that depends on your perspective. For me, coming from the temperate UK it's always hot, but to a local??

I've been there both Winter and Summer and believe me there's enough sunshine and warmth on Bequia any time of year. It is slightly cooler in Winter, which is part of the reason you'll find the peak season in the Caribbean is that time of year, however it's probably fair to say that Bequia offers a perfect year round climate with average daytime temperatures varying between 24C/76F and 30C/87F.


Easter regatta

This event is one of the highlights of the Bequia social calendar and is a hotly contested series of races for various classifications of boats. The regatta is normally held in April, and as Bequia boasts a long tradition of sailing, the whole island takes more than a passing interest!

Although I have yet to have the pleasure of being there in person for this event (something I intend to put to rights soon!) I have been regaled with many a tale of the hard fought competitions and the drinking marathons that are inevitably held after each race.

Again, sadly, for now I have no pictures to show you here but I hope to rectify this very soon and if anyone has any pictures they would like to put forward for use on this website feel free to e-mail me a thumbnail for consideration or 'snail mail' me the original (I cannot however promise to return it), but I have seen many myself before and it seems like the whole of Lower Bay is covered with sailing boats of all shapes, colours and sizes.

It's an event I certainly look forward to seeing!

Recommended restaurants

You are spoilt for choice when it comes to places to eat good food on Bequia. Restaurants here range from those who's prices are on par with a European or North American restaurants to those cafe-bars who are "cheap and cheerful", but they are all good in my opinion. Any that I have 'omitted' are more than likely those I have never personally visited.

Timberhouse (Port Elizabeth)

This is my favourite restaurant on Bequia, but I have to admit to a personal bias as the owners are personal friends and it is also the place we chose for our wedding reception.

The location offers what are probably the best views of Port Elizabeth and at night it is wonderful to sit and gaze on the twinkling lights from the port right down the Plantation House jetty.

Excellent food with impeccable service and all for a reasonable price. If you are fond of steaks, the Timberhouse offer the best on the island.

Tel: 784 457 3495


Spicy & Herby (Friendship Bay Hotel)

Superbly located to get the best from the long crescent beach, the "Spicy & Herby" restaurant offers a mainly European menu with themed cuisine evenings that changes weekly. You can sit just feet away from the gently lapping waters enjoying an excellent dinner with the lights of Mustique twinkling in the background.

A very well run (by general manager Gert) Bequia restaurant offering both lunch and dinner but closed on certain evenings in the 'off' season. Slightly expensive but with a good wine list and a relaxing atmosphere that I love.

Tel: 784 458 3222


The Old Fort (Mount Pleasant)

The Old Fort is exactly what is says. It is located high up on Mount Pleasant and therefore is always cooled by breezes and virtually mosquito free.

The views from here during daytime are stunning and you can see Mustique, Cannouan and further.

Open for lunches and dinners, there is a swimming pool so you can take a cooling swim, and the restaurant offers both atmosphere and quality food, but both at a price comparable to quality European restaurants. There is also an excellent wine list to choose from.

Tel: 784 458 3440


Fernando's Hideaway (Lower Bay)

'Nando is an excellent chef and his unique restaurant is wonderfully Bequian. If you decide to go please ensure you call and reserve as 'Nando will then go and buy the produce fresh from the market for your dinner that evening.

The atmosphere is very relaxed and lighting is provided by candles placed in sand filled flour bags.... wonderful!

Nando's 'goat water' (a mutton broth) is about the best on the island. Great food and atmosphere at reasonable prices, but remember to book!

Tel: 784 458 3758


Dawn's Creole Kitchen (Lower Bay)

I could go to Dawn's just to enjoy her wonderful smile, however she happens to also have a talent in the kitchen!

The restaurant is located just below Coco's Place and offer's a unique menu featuring mainly Creole dishes. I have never had green plantain (like a banana) soup anywhere else and it was delicious.

If there is a group of you consider asking Down to prepare a Creole banquet. We had one and it was superb, but ate so much we found walking afterwards a bit of a struggle! Booking in advance is sensible.

Tel: 784 458 3154


Frangipani Hotel (Belmont)

If you spend any time on Bequia you will pass the Frangipani daily as it is located just on the edge of the port. Originally the home of the Mitchell family (James 'son' Mitchell is the current prime minister of St. Vincent & the Grenadines) the restaurant is a favourite with sailors visiting the island.

A lovely atmosphere, menu that changes daily, and excellent wine list makes dining here a pleasure. The live 'steel band' every Thursday evening is a well attended and popular event.

Tel: 784 458 3255


L'Auberge Des Grenadines (Belmont)

Formerly known as 'The Old Fig Tree' the place has undergone a recent and extensive refurbishment. It is now owned and operated by Jacques Thevenot, and although Jacques is a French native he is no 'newcomer' to this part of the Caribbean as until taking over L'Auberge he was operating a French restaurant on St. Vincent with his Vincentian wife Eileen for the last eleven years.

They've also managed quite a coup by gaining the services of someone who is arguably the best barman on the island, Andy Williams.

The cuisine on offer is best described as 'French with a Creole twist' with lobster as the house specialty.

The accommodation too has been completely renovated and now offers 6 guest rooms, all with cable television.

Tel: 784 458 3201


The Gingerbread (Belmont)

It's fair to say that the architecture of the Gingerbread restaurant is Bequia's most impressive. Every time I gaze at the workmanship of the interior roof I marvel at the carpenter's skills.

The Gingerbread is open air and enjoys a wonderfully tranquil location overlooking the calm waters of Admiralty Bay. The curries here are the specialty of the house and the best on Bequia. Although there is often live music I feel sometimes the Gingerbread lacks atmosphere, but makes up for it with food and service.

Try a lunch here at the downstairs outdoor cafe barbecue. Fabulous jerked chicken and seafood kebabs on offer.

Tel: 784 458 3800


De' Bistro (Port Elizabeth)

Located right in the heart of Port Elizabeth, the Bistro is the "meeting place" you will tend to gravitate towards if you pop into 'town'. Great breakfasts, lunches and dinner are offered and at very good value for money. The even do an excellent range of pizza!

I find the staff here to be very personable, particularly when they get to know you, and I always enjoy spending time here, if only when sucking on a cooling drink.

Tel: 784 457 3482


Plantation House (Belmont)

The 'Sunny Caribbee' as some locals still refer to it is European (Italian) owned and operated. The constantly changing management leaves me confused and the island bemused, but it will come as no surprise that the pasta here is some of the best I've eaten anywhere.

The Plantation House makes the mistake of trying to being European whilst being located in the Caribbean, but it is probably Bequia's premier luxury hotel, and it's rates and restaurant prices reflect this.

Great food and wines but be prepared to pay

Tel: 784 458 3425


Mac's Pizzeria (Belmont)

Located just off the beach at Belmont Mac's Pizzeria is one of Bequia's best known restaurants and unsurprisingly offers a wide range of pizzas as well as other dishes, salads and their famous Mac's Conch McNuggets.

My favourite here is the lime pie... to die for and something I have to have at least once when I'm on the island.

Unfortunately because it is located in the lee of a hill I often find it unbearably hot, particularly if you end up sitting next to the kitchen and ovens.

Tel: 784 458 3474


The Green Boley (Belmont)

The 'Boley' (named after a green gourd found in these parts) is the most Bequian of bars. Service here is very Caribbean style and paced so if you're in a hurry, go elsewhere.

Food is good and cheap (cafe style) and they stock some of the coldest beers on the island. A favourite haunt and place to shoot the breeze.

Tel: 784 458 3247


Coco's Place (Lower Bay)

Up a very steep hill at the end of Lower Bay, a taxi here is always advisable. Then prepare yourself for the climb up the stairs!.. but it's all well worth it. Coco is a genial host and the bar has fabulous views over Lower Bay, across Admiralty Bay to Hamilton.

A nice atmosphere and good menu that is reasonably priced and with entertainment on various nights (check for details), Coco's also boasts satellite TV for those all important world cup matches, etc. Try the house specialty of 'buffalo wings' or conch chowder.

Just be careful of coming down those steps after a night of Coco's hospitality!

Tel: 784 458 3463


De' Reef (Lower Bay)

This is where you will usually find me during daytimes. Located right on the beach and open all day from 11 AM (except Mondays I think) serving food and drinks.

Sundays at De Reef is de rigueur and just the best time. I adore Sundays at De Reef, and so does most of the island who will appear there during the day.

Service can be very Caribbean though so don't be in a hurry.

Tel: 784 458 3484/3447


Theresa's (Lower Bay)

Theresa tragically recently lost her partner John to cancer, so I'm unsure whether or not the bar has re-opened. Located in the working village of Lower Bay, this place has no airs or graces but a friendly welcome is always on offer and Theresa is a great cook and a wonderful person who I like immensely.

Theresa is amenable to a party booking (don't just turn up) and given enough warning will cook and present the most fabulous of banquets, but remember, this is very much a local bar and not geared up for tourism.

I like Theresa and her bar and I'm sure you will too.

Tel: 784 458 3802


Columbo's Place (Hamilton/Port Elizabeth)

Recently taken over and renamed from The Harpoon Saloon, although slightly off track and isolated from the rest of the harbour, this offers you the best views of Port Elizabeth there are.

Always a bit of a "white elephant", sadly where it had little atmosphere as the Harpoon Saloon, it's got even less as Columbo's Place. The food though is very good and the Italian operators offer excellent pasta dishes.

Tel: 784 457 3881


On land safety

At first glance Bequia may seem like a little part of paradise... and in many ways it is, but like anywhere else Bequia is part of the "modern world" and although it retains a very strong local identity and culture, it 'enjoys' some of the same afflictions we have elsewhere.... only on a far, far smaller scale thankfully.

Sunset over BelmontSo the bottom line here is, do the same things on Bequia you would do elsewhere... don't leave your valuables in 'enticing' places like next to an open window and just generally be 'sensible'.

In the main I find the people of Bequia to be warm, generous, friendly and extremely trustworthy... but as anywhere, there's always an exception to the rule... sadly.

I know from personal experience the genuine affection the people of Bequia have for children and have many fond memories of children from my extended family walking hand in hand with a local lad who beams with the pleasure of doing so. Kids have the best time on Bequia and certainly walking is both a pleasure and safe.

Although it is a very small island you can hire mokes, Jeeps and motorbikes on Bequia, but driving on Bequia can be an 'experience' so it may be prudent to either walk (even for me that's perfectly possible) or take a land or water taxi wherever you want to go.


Water safety

Bob SachsMy good friend (and operator of Bequias' finest dive shop) Bob Sachs (pictured right) will often tell me over a rum that "in these waters, the most dangerous thing is you!"... mind you, I often think he's specifically referring to me rather than the rest of the human species in general! Even so, he does know what he's talking about (dependent upon rum intake of course) and diving here lets you enjoy some of the most effortless & relaxing sport diving on the planet.

You may, as I have done, come across the occasional nursing shark or ray, but as Bob says "leave them alone and they won't bother you" because they are generally more scared than you are...

The waters around Bequia are normally incredibly clear and warm. Generally they're calm too but a storm at sea can easily bring up a swell. However swimming somewhere like Lower Bay or my marriage location on Princess Margaret's beach is glorious.

Lower Bay

Both these beaches offer very safe conditions for those with young families and I personally have spent time in the company of friends with infants and young children who can relax and simply keep a careful eye open for a potential 'mishap'.

On the windward side (the Atlantic side) the conditions tend to be slightly rougher but still the beach at Friendship is also good for families. Hope beach however normally offers rollers and strong currents and is most definitely not for the faint hearted.

Air taxis

Getting to the Eastern Caribbean is only part of your journey. Dependent upon where you depart you may fly into Barbados, St. Lucia, St. Vincent, Martinique, Grenada, Trinidad & Tobago or Carriacou.

To get to Bequia you will need to arrange flights to the island, preferably prior to making the trip and you can easily do this directly yourself, or via your tour operator.

Imagine now arriving expectant and happy in the Caribbean, fully relaxed in the knowledge that your very own 'air taxi' is waiting for you on the apron just like the one in the picture below.

One of the SVG Air fleet awaiting pick up at Carriacou

You can chose to either book one of the scheduled 'island hops' that fly every day around the Caribbean, or as we do when there is a large enough party, charter your own flight (often more cost effective than you may think) which means that even if you suffer a delay in your scheduled arrival time, under most circumstances your air taxi will still be there waiting for you when you eventually land.

SVG Air have an impeccable safety record for their beautifully maintained, comfortable aircraft which can be chartered for parties as small as 4 and as large as 8. If there's more of you, book more than one aircraft!

Courteous, friendly and most of all punctual!

Tobago cays

As I write this I am kicking myself... this is because after the numerous trips I have taken to this area of stunning beauty I don't have a single image (currently) to place on this page to let you see how breathtakingly beautiful the Cays are.

The Cays are a small collection of coral islands just south of Canouan and have some spectacular (and shallow so ideal to snorkel) reefs. You will need to go by sea to get here and the journey is well worth while because when you arrive in the calm, clear turquoise blue waters, it is quite simply breathtaking. (Ed kicks himself again!)


The Cays are being developed into a National Marine Park and the warden, Kurt, is a charming, knowledgeable man who is always delighted to arrange field trips, diving, and student visits. Contact Kurt by clicking here. Hopefully Kurt will supply some images of the Cays for reference here!.. or feel free to do so yourself.

Getting there

As I've said you need to travel by sea and can do this in a variety of manners. Dive Bequia (call on 784 458 3504) regularly run trips down to the Cays in their custom built dive boats which can get you there in just over 90 minutes. They will run these trips subject to demand and the trip will normally include a dive on the way there, snorkeling (gear provided) at the Cays, and a stop at Mayreau for something to eat. Contact Dive Bequia while you're there and enquire about any impending trips or rustle up enough people yourself to make the trip worthwhile and arrange a day suitable for all.

You can also charter a yacht to sail you down at a more leisurely pace, but of course this will inevitable make the trip a longer event and often will involve an over night anchor at the Cays, which believe me is not burden! There are numerous private charters available (too many to list fully but ask around the island) but I can suggest you contact Indigo Bay Charters, or any of the regular trips on the excellent catamaran Passion, or on the charming old 80 ft locally built sailing schooner the Friendship Rose.

Bequia Trip: History, Culture, Beaches, Falls of Baleine

History of Bequia

The "modern" history of Bequia is recorded from the 1600's when the island was occupied by the Carib tribe who named the island "Becouya". However the British, French, Spanish and Dutch continuously tried to colonise St. Vincent and the Grenadines but were repelled time and again by the warlike Caribs.

Finally, after much bloodshed, in 1763 the Treaty of Paris ceded possession of St. Vincent and the Grenadines to the English. Typically, as was often the case at that time, this lasted only until a later war with the French saw the Islands come into French possession until the 1783 Treaty of Versailles saw them finally returned to the English.

Emancipation was achieved in 1834 and more recently the state St. Vincent and the Grenadines (SVG) achieved independence within the British Commonwealth in 1979.

In 1992 an airport was opened allowing light aircraft access to the island which was until then accessible only by ferry crossing from St. Vincent's main town and harbour of Kingstown.

The island was once a busy centre for boat building and whaling and many Bequian's still retain high levels of seamanship and nautical accomplishment as well as superb carpentry skills using traditional techniques.

Today Bequia is an island populated by people who are a mélange of Carib, Irish, French, English, African and Scottish heritage who give the island it's inimitable atmosphere of friendliness and relaxation. It is one of the few places on the planet where you can walk past a uniformed policeman who is singing his heart out and no-one thinks it unusual.

Spend an evening sipping rum, dining in one of the many excellent restaurants, chilling with the locals under an almond tree, listening to the outrageous cacophony of the tree frogs, or simply spend the day strolling around admiring the islands famous gingerbread house architecture and fretwork.

Whatever you chose to do, you will soon fall under the charm of this welcoming, unique and gentle island.

Language

As you are probably aware the French, Dutch and English fought over the colonisation of the Caribbean but throughout the Grenadines English is the spoken language, although of course with different and distinct dialects.

Bequian's are great sailors and travelers and you'd be surprised when you engage a local in conversation just how well travelled the average Bequian is. Of course the more we all travel we learn to communicate better, and the average Bequian has heard many languages and accents.

Further north on Martinique you'll find French as the spoken language, but even with the Bequia patois you won't find it too hard to make yourself understood... unless you've been taking advantage of that darn rum again, and let's be honest, who can understand you then???

Yes... some times I have to listen hard to understand what is being said in conversation by these passionate and eloquent people... and sometimes I have to admit my own shortcomings and say I didn't understand what was said.

With great patience (Gosh.. the English tourist's can be so slow!!) and good nature it will be repeated for me, and I have yet to find whatever was being repeated non worthwhile.

The Bequian perspective on life can often be very simple, as indeed life on the island can too. Personally I have benefited greatly from this perspective and every time I leave the island I take a little of the Bequia philosophy on life with me, which I think makes me a better person for it.

I'm fond of saying that "Bequia restores my soul"... and for that fact alone I will be forever grateful.


Getting to Bequia

Getting to Bequia can be a test of your desire to travel.. unless you live in that part of the Caribbean already of course! As there are no "heavy" international aircraft capable of landing on Bequia (light aircraft only) so wherever you are flying into (Barbados, St. Lucia, St. Vincent, Grenada or Trinidad, San Juan, Guadeloupe) you will need to arrange your transfers from your Caribbean arrival location with your travel agent prior to your departure and there are a number of carriers who fly regular routes from island to island.


From the UK

Via Barbados

The transatlantic crossing to Barbados from the UK normally takes around 8-8.5 hours, and your "island hop" on a light aircraft across the 90 miles or so to Bequia will take a further 40-50 minutes. Bear in mind thought that you can often have a wait or even an overnight stay in Barbados (there's worse places of course!) if your arrival time is after the last flight to Bequia. Depending upon your perspective all of this can be either a "trial" or an enjoyable part of the event, but either way it adds to the journey time.


Via St. Lucia

More and more tour operators are flying into St. Lucia and that means you can take a transfer to St. Vincent (which you can see is only the next island south) on one of the regular larger inter-island flights. Flight time around 15 minutes.


Via St. Vincent

If you have managed to get a flight to St. Vincent it's only a pleasant and short 45 minute or so ferry crossing from Kingstown to Port Elizabeth and there's something like 8 ferry crossing per day. This is probably my favourite way of arriving on Bequia and as the ferry comes around the headland into the calm tranquility of the port a smile never fails to appear on my face. It's also very cheap at around $12EC ($5US) for a return ticket.


Via Grenada or Trinidad

Although I have made the journey via Trinidad I have never travelled the route using Grenada, but once again it is only a short flight from either Trinidad (and Tobago) or Grenada (less than an hour) to St. Vincent from which you can take either the ferry or sometimes a very short flight (a matter of minutes) to Bequia airport.


From the US

If you are traveling from the U.S. you will normally come in via San Juan or Guadeloupe and your transfer will be via a more sizeable aircraft. However you will be unable to fly directly to Bequia without a channel hop from St. Vincent via light aircraft to Bequia's tiny but very modern airport. Alternatively as mentioned earlier you can take the pleasant ferry ride across from Kingstown.

It's not that long ago, around 8 years or so, that the only way to arrive on Bequia was by boat, normally the ferry which makes regular crossings from Port Elizabeth on Bequia to Kingstown on St. Vincent, but with the opening of the airport this is now an option rather than prerequisite.

The harbour at Port Elizabeth

The thing is though, however it is you travel to Bequia, it's worth the journey, and your first full day on this tranquil island will make the journey and effort of getting there feel like a distant memory.

NB: There is a EC$30 tax payable when you leave Bequia/St. Vincent & the Grenadines.



Culture

Bequia is like most Caribbean islands and very laid back.. but there is a cultural and moral code that is clearly defined.

Mostly the people of the Caribbean are highly religious and are generally of the Christian faith (although there is a growing Asian community in the Caribbean) or Rastafarian.

The average Bequian doesn't like the blasphemy of any God, and they have a very clear moral code over dress and sunbathing.

Topless bathing isn't allowed anywhere on Bequia and is frowned upon by all apart from the Europeans amongst us. Similarly if you go into "town" people aren't too comfortable with you walking around wearing just a swimming costume, and understandably so. If you do decide to leave the beach to do some shopping or visit the bank, consider those who are not on holiday and dress accordingly.

Other than that everyone on the island shares a common cultural trait... smilin', chillin' an' relaxin'....

I find the people of Bequia to be the island's greatest asset. It restores my soul to be amongst people who are genuinely happy and in love with their home. Many is the time I have sat with some new local friends enjoying the rum, and out will come a guitar upon everyone sings of their love for Bequia... "island in the sun" with a variety of tunes.

I will never forget when, on the only Christmas I have (so far) spent on Bequia I joined a group of locals and ex-pat's at John & Theresa's bar on Lower Bay. A group of about 10 people were sat singing carols in a very Bequia way... and as I joined them I spent an evening that will make me misty eyed with recollection for the rest of my life.


Bequia Beaches

Bequia may be a small island but you are spoilt for choice when it comes to beaches. The beaches here offer you crystal clear waters that are ideal for swimmers of all levels of competency, and are also perfect for sports diving.

Normally the leeward side of the island offers the calmest waters and the beaches on this side are Lower Bay, Tony Gibbon's Bay/Princess Margaret's beach and the much smaller beach area at Belmont.

Lower Bay

Lower Bay is a long crescent shaped stretch of sand and hosts De' Reef bar and restaurant as well as Dawn's Beach cafe and if you want to spend your time on the beach, it's the perfect place to do so and is where you will normally find me during daylight hours.

Just to the right of De' Reef restaurant and bar is a small reef (hence the bars name) which acts as a breakwater and offers the perfect 'paddling pool' for toddlers.

The beach at Lower Bay

At the Eastern end of the bay there is another small underwater reef where you can snorkel and gaze upon the vividly coloured aquatic life forms

Princess Margaret's Beach

So named because Princess Margaret once swan ashore here on a trip over from neighboring Mustique even though' older locals still refer to it by it's original name of Tony Gibbon's Bay, I think this beach is one of the most beautiful I have ever been to. So much so in fact that when we got married, this was the spot we chose for our ceremony.

Only recently accessible by road (I say 'road' but you wouldn't want to drive this at home) the only way to access this fabulous shallow, protected bay was on foot over some steep headland or by water taxi.

There is nothing for tourists on this beach (IE no bars or cafe's) but if you want some tranquility and superb swimming conditions, here would be my first choice every time.

Think about taking a 'picnic' with you so you can spend more time here without the need to leave to get a drink or something to eat, but as they say on Bequia...

"On the beach.. leave nothing but footprints"


Friendship Bay

Although on the 'windward' side of the island, this beach still offers you protection from the worst of the rollers you can normally find on the windward beaches in this part of the world.

A long crescent shape that offers you both the Friendship Bay Hotel with it's bar and restaurant along with the Bequia Beach Club, but unless you are a German speaking native you probably won't like the 'BBC' as it gets referred to too much.

I was lucky to spend an evening at a local bar/rum shack with my friend Graham, operator of a first class (air conditioned!) land taxi/cruiser, where we sat and discussed just how beautiful this island is whilst we gazed over a moonlit Friendship Bay.

Falls of Baleine

Getting to the falls is virtually impossible by land so a boat trip becomes a necessity. It is normally expected that you will swim ashore from any boat that takes you over, unless of course it has a tender, so be prepared to do as I have done and swim ashore holding camera and valuables above the water, or make other provisions.

Fortunately this is a short swim in calm waters, but the short walk from the shore to the falls is over a rocky, shingle beach so taking you shoes with you is a good idea also.

The short walk to the falls brings you to a large rock-lined pool which is fed with the cooling freshwater from the 60 ft falls. Swimming here give you one of the rare chances you will get of feeling cold in this part of the world and the falls offer some wonderful photograph opportunities.

La Soufriere Volcano

When I say there's an active volcano less than 20 miles from Bequia, there's no need to panic!

La Soufriere (a popular name for volcano's in this region, just check out a map of the Caribbean) is the highest point on St. Vincent at over 4,000 feet.

Apparently it shares many similarities with the infamous Mount St. Helen volcano in the US by being the same type, and less worryingly, they are the two most studied. However, seriously, the last eruption of La Soufriere was in April of 1979.

You can take a tour up the majestic slopes but this is only if you are feeling energetic! An 'expedition' to the the volcano's rim will normally involve an early morning start (it gets too warm during the day for such energetic pursuits) and a drive along the windward side of St. Vincent. You will then take a 3 mile or so foot trail and climb to the rim.

I'm told the effort is well worth it, but as they don't (yet) have a rum shack up there I've never bothered to make the climb.

Moonhole is so named after the rock configuration you can see in the picture which allows the perfect view of the moon. This is a privately owned development that has been designed around the natural features of the rocks and plantation and each home has been custom designed.

Moonhole

Via Jim and Sheena Johnston you can take a pre-arranged tour of Moonhole, which although I have yet to personally do myself, I have on good authority (the wife, and she is an authority!) that it is an excellent way to pass some very pleasant time.

However please ensure you call as uninvited visitors are not welcomed.

Getting there

Most trips to the falls will by necessity include a stop for lunch, normally at the delightful Wallilabou Bay which is an haven of tranquility and sunshine sparkling of the calm water, however you would need to verify this with whomever you choose for your charter

Once more I can recommend Dive Bequia (call on 784 458 3504) who regularly organise visits to the falls, normally subject to demand and the trip I took with them included a snorkel through the 'bat cave', which is a truly wonderful experience, and a dive as well as a stop for lunch (not included) at Wallilabou.

Equally there are lots of boat operators ready and willing to make the trip for you, and you may choose to sail there and stop over. Once again I suggest you enquire while you're on the island.

Botanical Gardens

These gardens are located on nearby St. Vincent and I only went here after 3 years because of an itch to explore St. Vincent (I didn't step off Bequia apart from flying off to leave for 3 separate annual visits) and now it's one of my favourite trips.

The Botanical Gardens of St. Vincent are the oldest in the Western Hemisphere and a guided tour by one of the official tour guides around the 20 or so acres of land is worth every penny because without the knowledge of a guide you will miss 80% of what is on offer.

I have spend numerous times strolling around these cool, relaxing and very well established gardens marveling at the knowledge of the guides. Allow 2 hours or so and enjoy the experience of seeing the breadfruit tree grown from the original brought by Captain Bligh (of Mutiny on the Bounty infamy) in 1793, the Soufriere Tree (the national plant of St. Vincent & the Grenadines), and see the extremely rare 'Vincy Parrot', native only to the island.

To make the trip catch the ferry from Port Elizabeth and make the enjoyable ferry crossing to Kingstown. Take a taxi from the quay, or if you feel energetic walk, but it's a fair distance through the bustle of Kingstown. Ferries travel to and fro throughout the day but make sure you don't miss the last one coming back!

Yacht charters

Although this may sound impossibly expensive and beyond your means, I'm here to tell you this is not the case.

The tradition of sailing on and from Bequia is long established and indeed most of the ex-pats I have met have arrived on Bequia via a sailing experience, and as a consequence there are quite a few (quite a lot actually) of superb yachts of varying size and degrees of sophistication available for rent.

Once again, if you are there during the Northern hemisphere summer (Bequia off season) and demand is low it makes sense to negotiate a rate that is good for everyone concerned and saves a beautiful boat from doing nothing more than look pretty at anchor.

I once was in a group of 6 adults and a child who chartered a boat for a 2 day sail down to the Tobago Cays with an overnight mooring at Saline Bay Mayreau (blissfully unforgettable). For this trip which included all food and drinks while aboard, a dive, and lunch at Canouan (not included) we paid US$60 per head.

Admittedly this was in 2005 but I'd hardly call that expensive, would you?

There's too many boats offering charters to list them all here so my advice is to simply ask around while you are on the island and take the deal that best suits you.

Believe me, apart from peak season, you'll have a wide choice of packages and boats to select from.


Local Currency

The local currency on Bequia is the Eastern Caribbean dollar, referred to as the EC dollar, however US dollars are universally accepted. There are many different currencies used throughout the Caribbean, and if you're on Barbados trying to buy a much needed cooling drink and you offer EC or Trinidadian dollars as payment, you'll be very disappointed... not to say thirsty.

My advice is to travel with US dollar travellers cheques (easily changed for any local currency on any island) which you can then exchange for the prevailing rate at a bank (there are two on Bequia) for EC dollars.

On Bequia you can pay for your accommodation, food, car or bike hire, excursion, all in US dollars (cash or travelers cheque) as there is a set exchange rate on the island of EC$2.6 to US$1 and the US travelers cheque is accepted by everyone provided they have enough local currency to make the exchange.

Credit cards

You'll find most places on Bequia (restaurants, hotels, accommodation) accept VISA and MASTERCARD and there are even ATM's on the island where you can draw cash from the machine. However I know that other cards such as Amex and Diners Club are much more difficult to use.

Diving

If you have ever fancied the idea of diving, Bequia is probably the perfect place to try it. The waters are wonderfully warm all year round so a wet suit isn't normally required but sometimes used through choice.

You could chose to do a 'resort course' where you will be fully schooled in diving theory with a shallow water session to ensure you can use the equipment safely, then, wonders of wonders, off you go in the dive boat to discover a whole new world.

If the bug really bites you could even qualify while you're there (I did over a 5 day period and it did not eat into my leisure time at all) and come back a qualified diver.

Even if you don't fancy the prospect of being underwater you can arrange a snorkeling trip where you can float around while the vibrantly colored fish entertain you.

For dive, snorkeling and package prices contact Dive Bequia on 784 458 3504 or click here to e-mail them now.