Friday 7th May - Great Zimbabwe - Harare
Felt ill all night and in morning, but better after an hour on the road. Rode on the dog box for the last time on a very fast road in the cool sunshine. Arrived in Harare at 13:30 and parcked the truck in the car park of the TerraceKane hotel. Met another Exodus truck that was getting ready to start the Southern African trip which Charlie is booked on. Changed $100 US into local, then picke up some mail from Mun & Dad and Ian Samson, together with a copy of Viz. Went for a burger at Wimpy with Julia, sitting outside on the pavement, then walked round a few shops and bought a couple more T-Shirts. Tried to collect the air tickets from the B.A. office, but they were not ready. Walked back to the hotel with Julia, stopping for a coffee on the way. Had a good hot shower, then got changed for our farewell meal. Had a Zimbabwe mixed grill consisting of Elephant, Ostrich, Impala, Stable and Guine Foul. Too much meat at once to finish it all. Got a taxi back with Charlie, Lars and Julia. Slept on truck with Charlie, Jo, Bobbie and Julia in the car park. Did not get much sleep.
Saturday 8th May - Harare
Had breakfast in the hotel with Jo, Julia, Bobbie and Charlie. Saw Charlie off on the new truck for his additional six week trip, wishing that I had also arranged it. Booked into the hotel for three nights for only ?27. Slept in room until it was time to go to the airport and see off Niels, Metta, Metta, Lars and Rikke back to Denmark. Picked up our own tickets, then drove back on the truck to the hotel. Nice day, but too tired to go down to the pool, fell asleep again on the bed. Others went out to the cinema, but I went to the bar for a quiet drink and a sandwich. Had a good nights sleep. The others slept on the truck.
Sunday 9th May - Harare
Had breakfast again in the hotel and then had a walk round town, spent the afternoon round the pool. Went out to a few bars at night with Mark, Charlotte, Bobbie, Jo and Julia.
Monday 10th May - Harare - London
Finally the trip has come to an end, packed up and got a taxi to the airport with Bobbie and Julia. Flying back on a B.A.747 to London, slept most of the way when it got dark.
Tuesday 11th May - London - Manchester
Landed at Heathrow in the morning. Bobbie and Julie met some freinds and got a lift back to Southampton. I wanted to get the shuttle to Manchester, but it was too expensive. Got the train instead to Stockport with plenty of time to think about getting a job etc. Final leg of the journy on the 17 bus from Stockport to Dane Bank. Walked the last few 100 yards arriving home at 12:30. Had a shower and slept the rest of the day, night and all of Wednesday.
Showing posts with label South Africa. Show all posts
Showing posts with label South Africa. Show all posts
Monday, June 16, 2008
Trek Through Africa: BOTSWANA (Day 161-165)
Sunday 2nd May - South Chobe / Victoria Falls
Had cerials for breakfast and were on the road by 6:50. Started reading a book until the truck got stuck in 3rd gear and we had to replace it with the old gear box which took a few hours. Had lunch on the edge of a village, met some South African tourists. On the dog box until it got cold, fell asleep in the back of the truck untill Ian began beeping the horn as we drove into Victoria Falls. Rode on the outside of the truck through the town with us all whooping and shouting. Only the other overlanders around knew why we were shouting or had any idea what we must have been through to get here. Made camp with other overland trucks on a campsite. As soon as I got a killing pain in my side, tried to walk it off by going to the local wimpy but it got worse. Painkillers had no effect and I realised it could be something serious. In constant agony, did not have a wink of sleep, just waiting for it to get light and get to a Doctors.
Monday 3rd May - Victoria Falls
Set off walking to the hospital on my own. Collapsed when I got to the wimpy, luclkly Marion was there and she got me a taxi. Only waited for a hour to see a Doctor, about 2 hour less than the NHS in the UK ! Woman Doctor told me she thought it was a gaul bladder problem caused by a sudden change of diet from boiled rice to fried food and saturated fats. Got a mixture of drugs that I will have to take for a few weeks. Having not slept for three or four days, I am beginning to lose it. Forgot to order a taxi and tried to walk the three miles back, took me hours. Passed a hotel and decided to book myself in for a few days. Struggled back to the camp and packed up a few things. Charlie carried the to the Sprayview hotel for me. Had a drink of tonic water in the bar then slept the whole afternoon in a soft clean bed - what luxury. Had a banana and special fat free biscuits for tea, then a hot bath. Everyone else had booked a booze cruze down the zambizi, and here I am feeling sorry for myself. Charlie and Julia came round at 10:00, both pissed to see how I was feeling.
Tuesday 4th May - Victoria Falls
Up at 7 to have a light breakfast in the hotel. Not in as much pain, but still increadbly tired. Went back to bed and slept the rest of the morning. Woke up at mid day and was deternind to see something more of Vic Falls than a hotel room. Walked to the camp and changed 320 French Francs into local. Walked over the falls into Zambia and got wet. Bought two caved wooden heads for $100 zim. Had a laugh at some typical Americans that could not grasp the concept of haggling, paying the first price quoted for any old thing. Swapped my leather waist-coat and Moroccan trousers for for two soapstone statues. Went round the supermarket with Charlie, then had a sandwich and brew by the poo of the hotel. Crashed out for a few more hours before Mark, Charlotte and Julia came round for a meal. Had crocodile thermidor, quite good. Decided to pay for another night, slept right through, began to feel a bit better.
Wednesday 5th May - Victoria Falls - Bulawayo
Had breakfast delivered to room at 6:30, packed up then met the truck on the road at 7:30. Travelled all day on a good road, stopping for lunch of bread and cheese at a roadside camp area. Got to Bulawayo at 3:30 and wandered around town with Charlie. Went into a beer hall for a drink then bought a few T-Shirts and a Zulu shield for $100 zim. At the camp I packed away the souverneers and tieded up my locker. Made BBQ chicken and potatoes for tea, but ended up burning it. Met an old white South African couple, just about the most racist people I have ever met. Held a big meeting about Harare and the end of the trip. Slept on the truck with Lars, Charlie, Niels and Julia. Getting cooler now.
Thursday 6th May - Bulawayo - Great Zimbabwe
Made breakfast fire and argued with Lars about getting the sugar and mike powder mixed up. Fixed my walkman on the truck for an hour, then drove towards Great Zimbabwe. Had lunch by a bridge, then stopped to do a bit of shopping. Walked round the ruins of Zimbabwe and up a hillto see the sunset. Only had mash potato for tea and began to feel sick again. Completed a questionare for Exodus, then slept on the truck again.
Had cerials for breakfast and were on the road by 6:50. Started reading a book until the truck got stuck in 3rd gear and we had to replace it with the old gear box which took a few hours. Had lunch on the edge of a village, met some South African tourists. On the dog box until it got cold, fell asleep in the back of the truck untill Ian began beeping the horn as we drove into Victoria Falls. Rode on the outside of the truck through the town with us all whooping and shouting. Only the other overlanders around knew why we were shouting or had any idea what we must have been through to get here. Made camp with other overland trucks on a campsite. As soon as I got a killing pain in my side, tried to walk it off by going to the local wimpy but it got worse. Painkillers had no effect and I realised it could be something serious. In constant agony, did not have a wink of sleep, just waiting for it to get light and get to a Doctors.
Monday 3rd May - Victoria Falls
Set off walking to the hospital on my own. Collapsed when I got to the wimpy, luclkly Marion was there and she got me a taxi. Only waited for a hour to see a Doctor, about 2 hour less than the NHS in the UK ! Woman Doctor told me she thought it was a gaul bladder problem caused by a sudden change of diet from boiled rice to fried food and saturated fats. Got a mixture of drugs that I will have to take for a few weeks. Having not slept for three or four days, I am beginning to lose it. Forgot to order a taxi and tried to walk the three miles back, took me hours. Passed a hotel and decided to book myself in for a few days. Struggled back to the camp and packed up a few things. Charlie carried the to the Sprayview hotel for me. Had a drink of tonic water in the bar then slept the whole afternoon in a soft clean bed - what luxury. Had a banana and special fat free biscuits for tea, then a hot bath. Everyone else had booked a booze cruze down the zambizi, and here I am feeling sorry for myself. Charlie and Julia came round at 10:00, both pissed to see how I was feeling.
Tuesday 4th May - Victoria Falls
Up at 7 to have a light breakfast in the hotel. Not in as much pain, but still increadbly tired. Went back to bed and slept the rest of the morning. Woke up at mid day and was deternind to see something more of Vic Falls than a hotel room. Walked to the camp and changed 320 French Francs into local. Walked over the falls into Zambia and got wet. Bought two caved wooden heads for $100 zim. Had a laugh at some typical Americans that could not grasp the concept of haggling, paying the first price quoted for any old thing. Swapped my leather waist-coat and Moroccan trousers for for two soapstone statues. Went round the supermarket with Charlie, then had a sandwich and brew by the poo of the hotel. Crashed out for a few more hours before Mark, Charlotte and Julia came round for a meal. Had crocodile thermidor, quite good. Decided to pay for another night, slept right through, began to feel a bit better.
Wednesday 5th May - Victoria Falls - Bulawayo
Had breakfast delivered to room at 6:30, packed up then met the truck on the road at 7:30. Travelled all day on a good road, stopping for lunch of bread and cheese at a roadside camp area. Got to Bulawayo at 3:30 and wandered around town with Charlie. Went into a beer hall for a drink then bought a few T-Shirts and a Zulu shield for $100 zim. At the camp I packed away the souverneers and tieded up my locker. Made BBQ chicken and potatoes for tea, but ended up burning it. Met an old white South African couple, just about the most racist people I have ever met. Held a big meeting about Harare and the end of the trip. Slept on the truck with Lars, Charlie, Niels and Julia. Getting cooler now.
Thursday 6th May - Bulawayo - Great Zimbabwe
Made breakfast fire and argued with Lars about getting the sugar and mike powder mixed up. Fixed my walkman on the truck for an hour, then drove towards Great Zimbabwe. Had lunch by a bridge, then stopped to do a bit of shopping. Walked round the ruins of Zimbabwe and up a hillto see the sunset. Only had mash potato for tea and began to feel sick again. Completed a questionare for Exodus, then slept on the truck again.
Trek Through Africa: BOTSWANA (Day 156-160)
Tuesday 27th April - Okavango Delta
Felt a bit better, made breakfast of cornflakes and toast. Up on the dog box on a very straight good road for 100s km into the Okavango delta. Began to see more and more wildlife, giraffe, ostrich and wart-hogs. Stopped for lunch under a big tree and cut a load of good wood. Entered a camp site on the edge of a small lake. Very tired fell asleep early.
Wednesday 28th April - Okavango Delta
Warm but cloudy morning. Drove into Maun to drop Ian, Esther, Rikke & the Metta off for a boat trip. Went into an air-conditioned supermarket and bought loads of junk food. Had a coffee in a cafe with Lars, then book a plane trip over the delta for 100 pula = ?28. Got very hot in the afternoon, went for a swim in the pool then Julia cut my hair. Mark & Charlotte arrived back in the evening. Had a beer fro the bar, had a large evening meal followed by more beers and Gin & Tonics. Over-indulged and felt sick again.
Thursday 29th April - Okavango Delta
Some thing were stolen in the night, Charlies day-pack, Claires walkman with my tapes and Charlottes bag. Reported it to the camp office. Had a hangover all morning. Filled the truck with water, cut some wood for a fire, and made a soup mix for lunch. Went swimming again and had a hot shower. Bough a book on the delta from the camp shop, then drove to the airstrip to get the plane. Nine of us crammed into a small cesna for a one hour flight over the delta. The Canadian pilot flew high up at first then swooped down to 75 feet buzzing various villages. Saw lots of antelope, elephants and giraffe. Had a drink in the Duck-Inn in Maun then went back to the camp. Had chicken & chips from the bar and another pint outside. Slept in the tent on my own, Charlie slept on the truck.
Friday 30th April - Okavango Delta / South Chobe
Made breakfast of cold porrage and bread. Into Maun to spend the last of our pulas. Bought kentuky fried chicken and bars of fudge. Waited a long time for Ian to arrive at the bank. Eventually drove out of the delta and into chobe game park. Began to see giraffs and elephants very close. Did not have any lunch, but stopped early in a good clearing. Had a game of chess with Patric at night. Thought a lion had come into the camp - mass panic with some people climbing onto the roof of the truck. They turned out to be hyenas, and were a lot bigger then we had imagined. Dig a very deep rubish hole to stop them getting at it. They continued prowling the camp into the night, I kept my commando knife just in case they came too close. Got woke up with them eating the tent and trying to get in and people running onto the truck again. I punched one on the nose very hard and made it yelp, that was the last we saw of them.
Saturday 1st May - South Chobe
Left very early to spend the whole day in Chobe national park. Saw lots of antelope things, elephants, zebras and giraffe. Had lunch with them surrounding the truck. Stopped at a water hole, but not much happening. Drove till 7 at night and camped on the road. Gettng a cold with a sore throat and ear ache. Not much sleep again with wild cats screaming at night.
Felt a bit better, made breakfast of cornflakes and toast. Up on the dog box on a very straight good road for 100s km into the Okavango delta. Began to see more and more wildlife, giraffe, ostrich and wart-hogs. Stopped for lunch under a big tree and cut a load of good wood. Entered a camp site on the edge of a small lake. Very tired fell asleep early.
Wednesday 28th April - Okavango Delta
Warm but cloudy morning. Drove into Maun to drop Ian, Esther, Rikke & the Metta off for a boat trip. Went into an air-conditioned supermarket and bought loads of junk food. Had a coffee in a cafe with Lars, then book a plane trip over the delta for 100 pula = ?28. Got very hot in the afternoon, went for a swim in the pool then Julia cut my hair. Mark & Charlotte arrived back in the evening. Had a beer fro the bar, had a large evening meal followed by more beers and Gin & Tonics. Over-indulged and felt sick again.
Thursday 29th April - Okavango Delta
Some thing were stolen in the night, Charlies day-pack, Claires walkman with my tapes and Charlottes bag. Reported it to the camp office. Had a hangover all morning. Filled the truck with water, cut some wood for a fire, and made a soup mix for lunch. Went swimming again and had a hot shower. Bough a book on the delta from the camp shop, then drove to the airstrip to get the plane. Nine of us crammed into a small cesna for a one hour flight over the delta. The Canadian pilot flew high up at first then swooped down to 75 feet buzzing various villages. Saw lots of antelope, elephants and giraffe. Had a drink in the Duck-Inn in Maun then went back to the camp. Had chicken & chips from the bar and another pint outside. Slept in the tent on my own, Charlie slept on the truck.
Friday 30th April - Okavango Delta / South Chobe
Made breakfast of cold porrage and bread. Into Maun to spend the last of our pulas. Bought kentuky fried chicken and bars of fudge. Waited a long time for Ian to arrive at the bank. Eventually drove out of the delta and into chobe game park. Began to see giraffs and elephants very close. Did not have any lunch, but stopped early in a good clearing. Had a game of chess with Patric at night. Thought a lion had come into the camp - mass panic with some people climbing onto the roof of the truck. They turned out to be hyenas, and were a lot bigger then we had imagined. Dig a very deep rubish hole to stop them getting at it. They continued prowling the camp into the night, I kept my commando knife just in case they came too close. Got woke up with them eating the tent and trying to get in and people running onto the truck again. I punched one on the nose very hard and made it yelp, that was the last we saw of them.
Saturday 1st May - South Chobe
Left very early to spend the whole day in Chobe national park. Saw lots of antelope things, elephants, zebras and giraffe. Had lunch with them surrounding the truck. Stopped at a water hole, but not much happening. Drove till 7 at night and camped on the road. Gettng a cold with a sore throat and ear ache. Not much sleep again with wild cats screaming at night.
Trek Through Africa: ZAMBIA - ZIMBABWE - BOTSWANA (Day 151-155)
Thursday 22nd April - Lusaka
Up early to make alpine out of porrage oats and raisins. Filled in the usual forms to get out of a country, only took 1 1/2 hours this time. Filled in a load more to get into Zambia. Took the main road ( actual tarmac ) to Kitwe, though truck not sounding very good again. Everything looks a lot nicer, from the buildings and gardens to the people's dress. Glad to hear English being spoken again and to see familiar brands and adverts. What a massive relief to get out of Zaire ! Changed some money for the food kitty at Barclays bank, then went for a burger and chips. Junk food has never tasted so good. Went food shopping in a supermarket, met some Yanks that had come up from South Africa and were complaining about this and that. Told them to go and spend a month in the jungle for something to complain about. Went back to the bank and used my card to get $100 in Zambian Kwatcha. Sat in the dog box feeling well pleased untill we camped at 7:30pm. Cooked a stew of 5 whole chickens as a celebration. Had a meeting where a few people, especially Mike are getting pissed off, but it could just be the beer going to their heads after having none for a month. Slept on the truck at midnight.
Friday 23rd April - Lusaka
Up at 4:50 to make tea and cornflakes. Left at 6:30am, sold Esther 8000 Kwatcha for ?10. Sat in the dog box again all the way to the main post office in Lusaka. Posted a letter to Paul Spires and picked on up from Mum and Victoria. Changed another $100 in Kwatcha from Barclays, sold a lot to Ian for French Francs. Did a stint of truck garding with Julia then went for a meal of steak and chips in a cafe. Eat 5 bars of chocolait untill I felt sick. Driving out of town at 3:30, the differential went good style and we crashed off the road. Ian and Patric worked to fix the truck but cant get it going for today. Some Zambian soldiers came to guard us as we stood out like a sore thumb in the middle of a township. Made them a meal and gave then cigs and some beer to keep them happy. Cold and noisy all night, sleeping bag is still very damp from the night before.
Saturday 24th April - Lusaka
Had an good breakfast of different cerials. Kenny, Marion, Andy, Kirstan, Mark, Charlotte and Claire have decided to leave for a few days on their own. Mike has gone his own way. Still feeling pleased that we are in civilisation with enough food and money available. Paid Julia 420 French Francs back for the Zaire transit visa. Crossed a silver suspension bridge over the river zambizi into Zimbabwe.
Sunday 25th April - Bulawayo
Good breakfast again, then went straight into the dog box at 7:00am with Charlie. Truck is about to give up. Stopped in a town while Ian phoned around for spare parts. Were told that a white farmer had some only 10km away. Drove back to his farm and they came out to meet us. They actually had a pet lion 7 months old with them. I jumped down to play with it but ended up getting scratched and bitten. The bloke had to beat it off with a bullwhip when it jumped on top of me. The I had to spend the next half hour cleaning myself up with antiseptic. Took a video of the lion playing in the house, then left with a gearbox from one of his old trucks. Stopped in town for lunch of meat pies and ice-cream. We are still finding the novelty of western food very pleasurable. Bought three beeers and drank them riding in the dox box untill dark. Got to a campsite in Bulawayo and then cut some wood for the fire. Gave the truck a quick clean then had a cold shower. Got dirty straight away helping Ian and Patric putting the new gearbox till well gone mid-night.
Monday 26th April - Bulawayo - Plumbtree
Walked into town with Bobbie to buy some fresh English style brown bread, also eat a cream doughnut from the bakery myself. Had another nice breakfast of bread and real butter. Washed some clothes in the toilet block, then felt very sick. Was ill all morning through over eating rich foods for the last few days. We had agreed to meet with the others today but they did not turn up so we left without them at 12:00. Drove to Rhodesmetropolis, but I was fast asleep by this time. Dove on again in the afternoon to Plumbtree to cross into Botswana. Whole process was easy and soon over, what a difference there is between the English efficiency and the French corruption. Drove a couple of miles down the road and camped on a hard track. Still feeling ill so I missed cooking to sleep on the truck.
Up early to make alpine out of porrage oats and raisins. Filled in the usual forms to get out of a country, only took 1 1/2 hours this time. Filled in a load more to get into Zambia. Took the main road ( actual tarmac ) to Kitwe, though truck not sounding very good again. Everything looks a lot nicer, from the buildings and gardens to the people's dress. Glad to hear English being spoken again and to see familiar brands and adverts. What a massive relief to get out of Zaire ! Changed some money for the food kitty at Barclays bank, then went for a burger and chips. Junk food has never tasted so good. Went food shopping in a supermarket, met some Yanks that had come up from South Africa and were complaining about this and that. Told them to go and spend a month in the jungle for something to complain about. Went back to the bank and used my card to get $100 in Zambian Kwatcha. Sat in the dog box feeling well pleased untill we camped at 7:30pm. Cooked a stew of 5 whole chickens as a celebration. Had a meeting where a few people, especially Mike are getting pissed off, but it could just be the beer going to their heads after having none for a month. Slept on the truck at midnight.
Friday 23rd April - Lusaka
Up at 4:50 to make tea and cornflakes. Left at 6:30am, sold Esther 8000 Kwatcha for ?10. Sat in the dog box again all the way to the main post office in Lusaka. Posted a letter to Paul Spires and picked on up from Mum and Victoria. Changed another $100 in Kwatcha from Barclays, sold a lot to Ian for French Francs. Did a stint of truck garding with Julia then went for a meal of steak and chips in a cafe. Eat 5 bars of chocolait untill I felt sick. Driving out of town at 3:30, the differential went good style and we crashed off the road. Ian and Patric worked to fix the truck but cant get it going for today. Some Zambian soldiers came to guard us as we stood out like a sore thumb in the middle of a township. Made them a meal and gave then cigs and some beer to keep them happy. Cold and noisy all night, sleeping bag is still very damp from the night before.
Saturday 24th April - Lusaka
Had an good breakfast of different cerials. Kenny, Marion, Andy, Kirstan, Mark, Charlotte and Claire have decided to leave for a few days on their own. Mike has gone his own way. Still feeling pleased that we are in civilisation with enough food and money available. Paid Julia 420 French Francs back for the Zaire transit visa. Crossed a silver suspension bridge over the river zambizi into Zimbabwe.
Sunday 25th April - Bulawayo
Good breakfast again, then went straight into the dog box at 7:00am with Charlie. Truck is about to give up. Stopped in a town while Ian phoned around for spare parts. Were told that a white farmer had some only 10km away. Drove back to his farm and they came out to meet us. They actually had a pet lion 7 months old with them. I jumped down to play with it but ended up getting scratched and bitten. The bloke had to beat it off with a bullwhip when it jumped on top of me. The I had to spend the next half hour cleaning myself up with antiseptic. Took a video of the lion playing in the house, then left with a gearbox from one of his old trucks. Stopped in town for lunch of meat pies and ice-cream. We are still finding the novelty of western food very pleasurable. Bought three beeers and drank them riding in the dox box untill dark. Got to a campsite in Bulawayo and then cut some wood for the fire. Gave the truck a quick clean then had a cold shower. Got dirty straight away helping Ian and Patric putting the new gearbox till well gone mid-night.
Monday 26th April - Bulawayo - Plumbtree
Walked into town with Bobbie to buy some fresh English style brown bread, also eat a cream doughnut from the bakery myself. Had another nice breakfast of bread and real butter. Washed some clothes in the toilet block, then felt very sick. Was ill all morning through over eating rich foods for the last few days. We had agreed to meet with the others today but they did not turn up so we left without them at 12:00. Drove to Rhodesmetropolis, but I was fast asleep by this time. Dove on again in the afternoon to Plumbtree to cross into Botswana. Whole process was easy and soon over, what a difference there is between the English efficiency and the French corruption. Drove a couple of miles down the road and camped on a hard track. Still feeling ill so I missed cooking to sleep on the truck.
Trek Through Africa: Zaire (Day 146-150)
Saturday 17th April - Kamina
Drove all morning on a bad road, passed an Camel on the way to Kamina. Could not belive the prices, 10,000,000 = ?2 for toilet roll, 14,000,000 for a small packet of biscuits. Left without buying anything. Saw a sign to a Belgian farm that was selling cheese, but there was none for sale. Drove the rest of the day and into the dark, truck slipped down a ditch while we were parking it. Had to dig it out before lunch. Very hungry, but the Mettas cooked up their normal crap. Fitting end to a bad day when a massive thunder storm kept us awake and the tent began leeking.
Sunday 18th April
Up early to dry off. Can't wait to get out of Zaire, only a few more days to go now if we keep driving all day. Julia made lunch of bread and tinned meat. Dozed in the afternoon. Had to put the tent up in some long grass after I had cut it down with the machette. Another bad nights sleep in the damp tent.
Monday 19th April
Tea and biscuits for breakfast. Arrived at the Zaire river in the morning and had a swim. Water was too dirty for drinking, so we f=drive on to another river. Filled the gerry cans from the river from a bridge using ropes. Water tank now 3/4 full. Camped in a big gravel pit, saw a snake in the grass. Good nights sleep, with no wind, rain or thunder.
Tuesday 20th April - Likasi
Food runnig low, had Alpine and custard for breakfast. Started walking at 6:40am for about a mile until the truck caught up. In the dog bow with Mark, Esther, Niels and Jo for the rest of the morning. Had packet soup for lunch in a gravel pit. Rained very hard, listened to music in afternoon with Julia. Road getting a bit better. Stopped to buy some bananas at the side of the road, then into Likasi. Saw the police beating people up and they soon began asking us for money. Managed to drive to the railway station where we bought some bread. Left imediatly after to a farm outside town. Andy and Kirstan cooking again, took them three hours to make a dehydrated. Ian is gettting Exodus to book flights back from Harare on 11 May.
Wednesday 21st April - Lubumbashi
Had a piece of dry bread for breakfast. Travelled for a couple of hours in the cold morning, but at least its dry today. Arrived in Zaire's second city to find that inflation has all but eroded all our money away. Mark changed 65,000,000 zaires into $3 and bought three hamburgers and shared them with me and Charlotte. All I did with my money was to swap it for some new notes and take them home for souverners. Sorted my locker out and tried to barter my leather jacket away, but did not have success. We bought 48 tins of South African beer with all the money we had left on the truck. A bloke tried to get one of the bags off the truck, but we caught him. Drove out of town and made camp in another good gravel pit. Cleaned the truck with Charlie & Lars and had a good meal of smash and veg. Ian has managed to get us a flight back to London from Harare for ?305 on May 11th.
Drove all morning on a bad road, passed an Camel on the way to Kamina. Could not belive the prices, 10,000,000 = ?2 for toilet roll, 14,000,000 for a small packet of biscuits. Left without buying anything. Saw a sign to a Belgian farm that was selling cheese, but there was none for sale. Drove the rest of the day and into the dark, truck slipped down a ditch while we were parking it. Had to dig it out before lunch. Very hungry, but the Mettas cooked up their normal crap. Fitting end to a bad day when a massive thunder storm kept us awake and the tent began leeking.
Sunday 18th April
Up early to dry off. Can't wait to get out of Zaire, only a few more days to go now if we keep driving all day. Julia made lunch of bread and tinned meat. Dozed in the afternoon. Had to put the tent up in some long grass after I had cut it down with the machette. Another bad nights sleep in the damp tent.
Monday 19th April
Tea and biscuits for breakfast. Arrived at the Zaire river in the morning and had a swim. Water was too dirty for drinking, so we f=drive on to another river. Filled the gerry cans from the river from a bridge using ropes. Water tank now 3/4 full. Camped in a big gravel pit, saw a snake in the grass. Good nights sleep, with no wind, rain or thunder.
Tuesday 20th April - Likasi
Food runnig low, had Alpine and custard for breakfast. Started walking at 6:40am for about a mile until the truck caught up. In the dog bow with Mark, Esther, Niels and Jo for the rest of the morning. Had packet soup for lunch in a gravel pit. Rained very hard, listened to music in afternoon with Julia. Road getting a bit better. Stopped to buy some bananas at the side of the road, then into Likasi. Saw the police beating people up and they soon began asking us for money. Managed to drive to the railway station where we bought some bread. Left imediatly after to a farm outside town. Andy and Kirstan cooking again, took them three hours to make a dehydrated. Ian is gettting Exodus to book flights back from Harare on 11 May.
Wednesday 21st April - Lubumbashi
Had a piece of dry bread for breakfast. Travelled for a couple of hours in the cold morning, but at least its dry today. Arrived in Zaire's second city to find that inflation has all but eroded all our money away. Mark changed 65,000,000 zaires into $3 and bought three hamburgers and shared them with me and Charlotte. All I did with my money was to swap it for some new notes and take them home for souverners. Sorted my locker out and tried to barter my leather jacket away, but did not have success. We bought 48 tins of South African beer with all the money we had left on the truck. A bloke tried to get one of the bags off the truck, but we caught him. Drove out of town and made camp in another good gravel pit. Cleaned the truck with Charlie & Lars and had a good meal of smash and veg. Ian has managed to get us a flight back to London from Harare for ?305 on May 11th.
Trek Through Africa: Zaire (Day 141-145)
Monday 12th April - Lake, Central Zaire
Very warm by 7:30, spent the day sun bathing and swimming. Got all the maps out in the buildings, to plan how to get out of Zaire. These are of limited use as they are based on the old Belgian Congo maps of 30 years ago and now most roads and some bridges are impassible for vehicles. This has got to be the worst example of a country self destructing after gaining independance. Had a good meal at night for once.
Tuesday 13th April
Got the tent away just in time before it begain raining. Made porrage and raisens for breakfast. Travelling South East in the direction of Lumabashi 500 miles away. Stopped at a village market and bought six stodge balls and some bread. We all eat them as if we had just been liberated from Belsen. Weight is falling off us by the pound, I must have lost at least three stones. The locals are actually digging mud holes in the road and then pretending to be working fixing it just to get money off passing trucks. Drove right through one road block when they tried to charge us 2 million zaires to pass. Made camp in a load of deralict buildings, very windy and raining, locals soon went, had a good nights sleep.
Wednesday 14th April
Lost a spade in the morning, found it after a while, then made a 6am start. Only a few locals to be seen, started off quite cool then warmed up to be very hot by lunch. Made good speed on a tarmac road, managed to skirt past most army road blocks. Rained again in afternoon, cleaned truck after a good meal. Loads of ants everywhere.
Thuesday 15th April
Went shopping for food in an unknown town. Did really well, bought fresh bread, fruit, onions, tomatoes and even potatos, also got some biscuites for myself. Came across an old bridge that had been stripped by the local idiots. All had a wash in the river while we decided what to do. We made lunch of fish, corned beef, pineapple and bananas, then spent the afternoon cleaning up and reading in the sun. Not much choice other than to fix the bridge, if this one has been stripped, then others may be in a worse state. Made an early tea of corned beef hash while the others were working on the bridge. Had a large vodka before sleeping on the truck with Lars, Charlie and Niels. Loads of flies around in the night as well as water dripping on us keeping us awake.
Friday 16th April
Up at 5:45 to make breakfast of bread jam, oranges, bananas and tea. Very hot, cut some wood for lunch. Made the tricky crossing at mid-day with only a few cm to spare on each side. Had lunch as soon as we crossed, then filled up the water tank from river using the gerry cans. Travelled for four hours in the afternoon on quite a good road. Camped on the road after almost driving into a swamp. Cut more wood then crashed out.
Very warm by 7:30, spent the day sun bathing and swimming. Got all the maps out in the buildings, to plan how to get out of Zaire. These are of limited use as they are based on the old Belgian Congo maps of 30 years ago and now most roads and some bridges are impassible for vehicles. This has got to be the worst example of a country self destructing after gaining independance. Had a good meal at night for once.
Tuesday 13th April
Got the tent away just in time before it begain raining. Made porrage and raisens for breakfast. Travelling South East in the direction of Lumabashi 500 miles away. Stopped at a village market and bought six stodge balls and some bread. We all eat them as if we had just been liberated from Belsen. Weight is falling off us by the pound, I must have lost at least three stones. The locals are actually digging mud holes in the road and then pretending to be working fixing it just to get money off passing trucks. Drove right through one road block when they tried to charge us 2 million zaires to pass. Made camp in a load of deralict buildings, very windy and raining, locals soon went, had a good nights sleep.
Wednesday 14th April
Lost a spade in the morning, found it after a while, then made a 6am start. Only a few locals to be seen, started off quite cool then warmed up to be very hot by lunch. Made good speed on a tarmac road, managed to skirt past most army road blocks. Rained again in afternoon, cleaned truck after a good meal. Loads of ants everywhere.
Thuesday 15th April
Went shopping for food in an unknown town. Did really well, bought fresh bread, fruit, onions, tomatoes and even potatos, also got some biscuites for myself. Came across an old bridge that had been stripped by the local idiots. All had a wash in the river while we decided what to do. We made lunch of fish, corned beef, pineapple and bananas, then spent the afternoon cleaning up and reading in the sun. Not much choice other than to fix the bridge, if this one has been stripped, then others may be in a worse state. Made an early tea of corned beef hash while the others were working on the bridge. Had a large vodka before sleeping on the truck with Lars, Charlie and Niels. Loads of flies around in the night as well as water dripping on us keeping us awake.
Friday 16th April
Up at 5:45 to make breakfast of bread jam, oranges, bananas and tea. Very hot, cut some wood for lunch. Made the tricky crossing at mid-day with only a few cm to spare on each side. Had lunch as soon as we crossed, then filled up the water tank from river using the gerry cans. Travelled for four hours in the afternoon on quite a good road. Camped on the road after almost driving into a swamp. Cut more wood then crashed out.
Trek Through Africa: Zaire (Day 136-140)
Wednesday 7th April Tshikapa - Zaire
Up at 6:30 even before the locals returned. Passed through a few large villages, and women gathering casava on the roads. Arrived in the diamond town of Tshikapa. Invited for lunch by an Israili guy in his fortified house. Armed servants and guards all over the place, whole place looks like a set out of Mad Max. Could not get any clean water, then tried shopping for food but the prices were very expensive, returned with sod all. Started to feel ill again in the afternoon with stomach cramps. I rode on the dog box even though it was raining, roads are still very slow as they are just fine red sand. Camped in what we thought was a quiet village, by the time we had made the camp, 100's of locals had turned up again. Most of the kids had not seen white people before, feel like we are in a zoo.
Thursday 8th April
Raining in the morining again. Road was blocked by loads of fallen trees, after using the chainsaw a few times we turned back to find a different way. Made lunch in a quiet village, usual corned beef, rice and fish. Got stuck in a large water filled hole, with the local kids giving us abuse because we had no presents to give them. Travelled the rest of the day and made camp in the grounds of a church which attracted the largest crowd ever. Struggled to get the fire going without any deisel. Managed to make a satisfactory mix of corned beef, onions and soup. Then spent ages cutting the wood for the fire in the morning. Very late before we crashed out on the truck. Cool and damp, but no flies for once.
Friday 9th April - Matamba, Zaire
Storm brewing in the morning, so we just made Alpine substitute for breakfast ( porrage oats, raisins and sugar ). In a bad mood all day, lack of sleep and having crap to eat is not helping matters. Dug a large rubbish hole and pissed in it to stop the locals digging it up and throwing it around. Found a good place to camp by an old bridge, managed to cut the tent with a machete and had to mend it using the air-bed repair kit. Storm kept us awake all bloody night.
Saturday 10th April - Kananga, Zaire
Up at first light, the locals decided to set up a market around the truck. Listened to my walkman until we arrived in the town of Kananga at 10:00. I stayed on the truck because I did not have to go food shopping or any money to spend. Everyone went missing for hours, I got worried and started to fasten down the sides of the truck. Patric came back and then drove the truck into a church mission where everyone was hiding after the police were giving them a bad time. What a fucked-up country this is. Good news was that Kenny had managed to get hold of three crates of beer. Heading for a small lake where we can take some time off travelling. Stopped to fill up with water, had to wade in waist deep to get it. Did not manage to dry off in the afternoon. Did not make the lake, put the tent up OK and had pasta and soup.
Sunday 11th April - Lake, Central Zaire
Good morning, had a decent breakfast, only travelled for two hours. Bought bread and fruit on the road. Got to the lake for 9:30. Spent the next two hours doing all my washing. Cut a load of wood for the fire then went swimming. Had a big meeting at night to decide where we go from here now that we are back on schedual again. Had a couple of beers before trying to get to sleep in the tent that I pitched on a slope like an idiot.
Up at 6:30 even before the locals returned. Passed through a few large villages, and women gathering casava on the roads. Arrived in the diamond town of Tshikapa. Invited for lunch by an Israili guy in his fortified house. Armed servants and guards all over the place, whole place looks like a set out of Mad Max. Could not get any clean water, then tried shopping for food but the prices were very expensive, returned with sod all. Started to feel ill again in the afternoon with stomach cramps. I rode on the dog box even though it was raining, roads are still very slow as they are just fine red sand. Camped in what we thought was a quiet village, by the time we had made the camp, 100's of locals had turned up again. Most of the kids had not seen white people before, feel like we are in a zoo.
Thursday 8th April
Raining in the morining again. Road was blocked by loads of fallen trees, after using the chainsaw a few times we turned back to find a different way. Made lunch in a quiet village, usual corned beef, rice and fish. Got stuck in a large water filled hole, with the local kids giving us abuse because we had no presents to give them. Travelled the rest of the day and made camp in the grounds of a church which attracted the largest crowd ever. Struggled to get the fire going without any deisel. Managed to make a satisfactory mix of corned beef, onions and soup. Then spent ages cutting the wood for the fire in the morning. Very late before we crashed out on the truck. Cool and damp, but no flies for once.
Friday 9th April - Matamba, Zaire
Storm brewing in the morning, so we just made Alpine substitute for breakfast ( porrage oats, raisins and sugar ). In a bad mood all day, lack of sleep and having crap to eat is not helping matters. Dug a large rubbish hole and pissed in it to stop the locals digging it up and throwing it around. Found a good place to camp by an old bridge, managed to cut the tent with a machete and had to mend it using the air-bed repair kit. Storm kept us awake all bloody night.
Saturday 10th April - Kananga, Zaire
Up at first light, the locals decided to set up a market around the truck. Listened to my walkman until we arrived in the town of Kananga at 10:00. I stayed on the truck because I did not have to go food shopping or any money to spend. Everyone went missing for hours, I got worried and started to fasten down the sides of the truck. Patric came back and then drove the truck into a church mission where everyone was hiding after the police were giving them a bad time. What a fucked-up country this is. Good news was that Kenny had managed to get hold of three crates of beer. Heading for a small lake where we can take some time off travelling. Stopped to fill up with water, had to wade in waist deep to get it. Did not manage to dry off in the afternoon. Did not make the lake, put the tent up OK and had pasta and soup.
Sunday 11th April - Lake, Central Zaire
Good morning, had a decent breakfast, only travelled for two hours. Bought bread and fruit on the road. Got to the lake for 9:30. Spent the next two hours doing all my washing. Cut a load of wood for the fire then went swimming. Had a big meeting at night to decide where we go from here now that we are back on schedual again. Had a couple of beers before trying to get to sleep in the tent that I pitched on a slope like an idiot.
Trek Through Africa: Zaire (Day 131-135)
Friday 2nd April - Kikwit, Zaire
Made an easy breakfast of bread at 5:30. Listned to music with Julia all morning, and rode up in the dog box went it was warm enough. Charlie?s legs have got worse, and my feet are full of blisters. Still dont feel well, had dry bread again for lunch. Arrived in the town of Kitwit in the afternoon. The whole town smells and is very dirty, spent a full hour trying to find something worth buying. Only managed to buy a packet of out of date biscuits, had one and decided they were fit only for dogs. Food group returned with sod all, glad to get out of the place which everyone christned Fuck-Wit. Note: Kikwit is the town where the Ebola virus broke out a few years later, can?t say that I am really surprised.) Now heading south, it got dark very quicky and we were lucky to fund a football pitch in the grounds of a school to camp in. Got a good spot for once between the goals. Rained heavily all night, not much sleep.
Saturday 3rd April - Lutshima River, Zaire
Pissing down with rain while we took the tents down. Had cold porrage under a shelter for breakfast. Got a flat tyre as soon as we started, so now I am covered in oil as well as being piss wet through. Now at an altitude of 2,000 feet and it is quite cold. Had lunch a a brook that would not look out of place in the Yorkshire Dales. Only Andy and Esther had a wash, rest of us were too cold. Read "The Africans" before having to strengthen a bridge with sand mats and planks. Got bitten by loads of red ants. Camped early in the light in a river bed, soon all the locals from a nearby village came scrounging for food and fags. Had the first decent nights sleep in ages.
Sunday 4th April - Bulu, Zaire
Up with first light at 5:30, very damp but sky soon cleared up. Landscape not resembles the Canadia prarie, but totally unculitivated. Passed throught a few small villages that seemed cleaner and more organised than those near Kinshasa. Road is not too good but we kept going all day. Had a bath in a fast flowing river at lunch time, plus did a bit of washing. Cut down some wood for the fire then stopped in a village to buy a drink of orange. We have lost two teeth of 2nd gear, which is the gear we use the most, no choice to keep going as there are no spare parts in Zaire. Made it to a wide river with a ferry crossing, could get no sense out of the people there regarding the next ferry. Once it got dark, we made a camp near the truck, people around all night in the trees. Could not be bothered putting the tent up and the truck was full, so I slept on the dog box, luckly it did not rain. Took loads of medicine in an attempt to get rid of the never ending shits.
Monday 5th April Kitota - Loange, Zaire
Got woke up at 5:00 by the girls making breakfast, could not get back to sleep, so I got up and helped them. Drove the truck down to the river to wait for it to cross. Pissing arround for ages, did not get across untill 11:30. We all had to get off on the other side as the truck struglled to get up a muddy bank. Road is sunken into the ground and is filled with giant potholes, made slow progress for the rest of the day. Rolling countryside with scenic hills and vallys, did not pass through anymore villages or see anyone else for the rest of the day. Rained so heavily that Patric stopped the truck, got out and had a shower. Camped just before dusk in a clearing with very long grass, not a very good spot. Did not stop raining, had to put the cook tent up, got a bit worried when the lightning came very close and we could feel the ground shaking.
Tuesday 6th April - Katanga, Zaire
Got up early in the damp long grass. Travelled all day, stopped near a village under a giant tree for lunch. Found a fast flowwing stream and stopped for a quick wash. Pace of the trip is starting to tell on us all. Camped on the edge of a village, and a crowd watched us all evening until we were all in our tents. Had a decent nights sleep once they had gone.
Made an easy breakfast of bread at 5:30. Listned to music with Julia all morning, and rode up in the dog box went it was warm enough. Charlie?s legs have got worse, and my feet are full of blisters. Still dont feel well, had dry bread again for lunch. Arrived in the town of Kitwit in the afternoon. The whole town smells and is very dirty, spent a full hour trying to find something worth buying. Only managed to buy a packet of out of date biscuits, had one and decided they were fit only for dogs. Food group returned with sod all, glad to get out of the place which everyone christned Fuck-Wit. Note: Kikwit is the town where the Ebola virus broke out a few years later, can?t say that I am really surprised.) Now heading south, it got dark very quicky and we were lucky to fund a football pitch in the grounds of a school to camp in. Got a good spot for once between the goals. Rained heavily all night, not much sleep.
Saturday 3rd April - Lutshima River, Zaire
Pissing down with rain while we took the tents down. Had cold porrage under a shelter for breakfast. Got a flat tyre as soon as we started, so now I am covered in oil as well as being piss wet through. Now at an altitude of 2,000 feet and it is quite cold. Had lunch a a brook that would not look out of place in the Yorkshire Dales. Only Andy and Esther had a wash, rest of us were too cold. Read "The Africans" before having to strengthen a bridge with sand mats and planks. Got bitten by loads of red ants. Camped early in the light in a river bed, soon all the locals from a nearby village came scrounging for food and fags. Had the first decent nights sleep in ages.
Sunday 4th April - Bulu, Zaire
Up with first light at 5:30, very damp but sky soon cleared up. Landscape not resembles the Canadia prarie, but totally unculitivated. Passed throught a few small villages that seemed cleaner and more organised than those near Kinshasa. Road is not too good but we kept going all day. Had a bath in a fast flowing river at lunch time, plus did a bit of washing. Cut down some wood for the fire then stopped in a village to buy a drink of orange. We have lost two teeth of 2nd gear, which is the gear we use the most, no choice to keep going as there are no spare parts in Zaire. Made it to a wide river with a ferry crossing, could get no sense out of the people there regarding the next ferry. Once it got dark, we made a camp near the truck, people around all night in the trees. Could not be bothered putting the tent up and the truck was full, so I slept on the dog box, luckly it did not rain. Took loads of medicine in an attempt to get rid of the never ending shits.
Monday 5th April Kitota - Loange, Zaire
Got woke up at 5:00 by the girls making breakfast, could not get back to sleep, so I got up and helped them. Drove the truck down to the river to wait for it to cross. Pissing arround for ages, did not get across untill 11:30. We all had to get off on the other side as the truck struglled to get up a muddy bank. Road is sunken into the ground and is filled with giant potholes, made slow progress for the rest of the day. Rolling countryside with scenic hills and vallys, did not pass through anymore villages or see anyone else for the rest of the day. Rained so heavily that Patric stopped the truck, got out and had a shower. Camped just before dusk in a clearing with very long grass, not a very good spot. Did not stop raining, had to put the cook tent up, got a bit worried when the lightning came very close and we could feel the ground shaking.
Tuesday 6th April - Katanga, Zaire
Got up early in the damp long grass. Travelled all day, stopped near a village under a giant tree for lunch. Found a fast flowwing stream and stopped for a quick wash. Pace of the trip is starting to tell on us all. Camped on the edge of a village, and a crowd watched us all evening until we were all in our tents. Had a decent nights sleep once they had gone.
Trek Through Africa: Zaire (Day 126-130)
Sunday 28th March - Brazzaville, Congo - Kinshasa, Zaire
Left the hostel quite early, and drove down to the docks, but had to wait for two hours. Found a few coins and bought an ice-cream. The ferry over the congo was an experience in itself. Parked the truck at the far end and began to walk around the ferry which was very crowded. Soon there was a lot of trouble between the passengers and uniformed paramilitary blokes. They were getting hold of people and throwing them in a jail room on a lower deck. After a beating, they then had to pay to be let out. Found it safer to stand guard around the truck, made a point of unlocking the spades and axe on the side of the truck and also having the machete?s handy. Nearing the far bank we could hear sporadic gun fire in the city, this turned out to be the police battling the army who had gone on the rampage after not being paid. Very tense all the way across. On the docks we were shunted into an immigration centre and had the now regular experience of completing countless forms. Actually completed within the hour. Drove with the truck fully covered to the Prodestant mission in the centre of the capital, here they have ample grounds for camping within a walled enclosure, so we should be relatively safe. Played football with the local kids, but it is too hot. Had a beer then fell asleep in the sun, soon got dehydrated. Had a good nights sleep on the soft lawn.
Monday 29th March - Kinshasa, Zaire
Had breakfast then we drove the truck into town to change money. Thriving black market because the banks have all but stopped operating, inflation is calculated on a daily basis. Changed 100FF for 43,000,000 Zaires which filled a whole carrier bag. Had a plate of chips and two bottles of coke in a caf頷ith Charlie & Lars, cost 11 million. Walked round a large supermarche selling imported goods, spent another 13 million on two bottles of vodka. Had to guard the truck for an hour before filling it up with deisel. Engine sounding rough again, but it still seems to be going OK. Walked back to the church and spent the day lazing around the grounds, very hot and humid untill it began raining after tea. Settled my bar tab for another 100FF and sat on the truck in the evening drinking beer and whiskey with Andy.
Tuesday 30th March - Kinshasa, Zaire
Not much sleep, truck left early with most people to go into the town centre, I stayed behind with Mike, Clare and Charlotte. We are not allowed out on our own because of the civil unrest and total breakdown of law and order. I sorted a few thing out that I no longer need to barter. When the truck returned, went out with Lars and Charlie to the local outdoor market, did not have any luck swapping my leather jacket, bought a few old notes for my collection. Saw the police beating car drivers at a crossroads while trying to get money off them. Decided it was time to get back, a few minutes later we got picked up ourselves. They said they were under cover Police and wanted to see our passports, I ignored them at first telling Charlie and Lars to keep walking, but they stopped to show them their laminated copies, but they said they needed to see the real thing. The real police came but were soon bought off, at this point there were only three of them and I wanted to run, but Charlie?s leg was still bad and Lars was getting scared, so I had no choice to but to wait with them. Looking around the street was now empty, everyone must know what was going on. The standoff continued for another 15 minutes as they tried to make us get into a car but we still demanded that we would only get in a marked police car. Another car pulled up and four more guys started giving us shit. One pulled a gun and the others had knives, being totally outnumbered we were bundled into an old renault. They drove us out of the commercial area and we all knew what was comming, but for some reason I could not stop laughing. Lars was shitting himself, pleading with me to shut-up. They made us empty our pockets, but my money was hidden in a money belt and the idiots could not find it untill the guy in the front leaned over and slashed my shirt open with a flick-knife. The bastards then pushed us out while the car was still going. Luckly I did not land on my knife which was still strapped to my back and none of us were hurt. We got our bearings and walked back to the mission. Never been so glad to see a church in my life. Got pissed at night with Lars, Charlie and Patrik, laughing about how we could have got a real beating or even worse for just ?3 each.
Wednesday 31st March - Kinshasa, Zaire
Had to go out again to buy the food, went tooled up, not going to let these bastards get us again. Got the food this time OK. Spent the afternoon washing most of my clothes in the sink as we may be leaving soon. Charlie and Lars went out for a few beers and got pissed. I had just one Primary beer at night and was kept awake all night with bad guts. The idiots are not waiting for it to finish fermenting before its bottled.
Thursday 1st April - Kinshasa, heading east.
Bought 20 loaves of bread before leaving the site at 8. Passed through the outskirts of Kinshasa, past a lot big monuments and the half finished airport and railway station, what a perfect example of how not to run a country ! Road soon disintigrated back to a track after leaving the suburbs, climbed up the hills into scenery very much like the Peak District back home. Temperature cooled down as it became cloudy, made lunch of fish and corned beef. I still feel bad, only had bread and cheese. Made tea of rice, onions and tomatoes, it ran out so I had to open a tin of hot dogs for myself. Slept on the truck with Charlie, Neils and Lars. We are too high up for flies, but still got no sleep because of the shits.
Left the hostel quite early, and drove down to the docks, but had to wait for two hours. Found a few coins and bought an ice-cream. The ferry over the congo was an experience in itself. Parked the truck at the far end and began to walk around the ferry which was very crowded. Soon there was a lot of trouble between the passengers and uniformed paramilitary blokes. They were getting hold of people and throwing them in a jail room on a lower deck. After a beating, they then had to pay to be let out. Found it safer to stand guard around the truck, made a point of unlocking the spades and axe on the side of the truck and also having the machete?s handy. Nearing the far bank we could hear sporadic gun fire in the city, this turned out to be the police battling the army who had gone on the rampage after not being paid. Very tense all the way across. On the docks we were shunted into an immigration centre and had the now regular experience of completing countless forms. Actually completed within the hour. Drove with the truck fully covered to the Prodestant mission in the centre of the capital, here they have ample grounds for camping within a walled enclosure, so we should be relatively safe. Played football with the local kids, but it is too hot. Had a beer then fell asleep in the sun, soon got dehydrated. Had a good nights sleep on the soft lawn.
Monday 29th March - Kinshasa, Zaire
Had breakfast then we drove the truck into town to change money. Thriving black market because the banks have all but stopped operating, inflation is calculated on a daily basis. Changed 100FF for 43,000,000 Zaires which filled a whole carrier bag. Had a plate of chips and two bottles of coke in a caf頷ith Charlie & Lars, cost 11 million. Walked round a large supermarche selling imported goods, spent another 13 million on two bottles of vodka. Had to guard the truck for an hour before filling it up with deisel. Engine sounding rough again, but it still seems to be going OK. Walked back to the church and spent the day lazing around the grounds, very hot and humid untill it began raining after tea. Settled my bar tab for another 100FF and sat on the truck in the evening drinking beer and whiskey with Andy.
Tuesday 30th March - Kinshasa, Zaire
Not much sleep, truck left early with most people to go into the town centre, I stayed behind with Mike, Clare and Charlotte. We are not allowed out on our own because of the civil unrest and total breakdown of law and order. I sorted a few thing out that I no longer need to barter. When the truck returned, went out with Lars and Charlie to the local outdoor market, did not have any luck swapping my leather jacket, bought a few old notes for my collection. Saw the police beating car drivers at a crossroads while trying to get money off them. Decided it was time to get back, a few minutes later we got picked up ourselves. They said they were under cover Police and wanted to see our passports, I ignored them at first telling Charlie and Lars to keep walking, but they stopped to show them their laminated copies, but they said they needed to see the real thing. The real police came but were soon bought off, at this point there were only three of them and I wanted to run, but Charlie?s leg was still bad and Lars was getting scared, so I had no choice to but to wait with them. Looking around the street was now empty, everyone must know what was going on. The standoff continued for another 15 minutes as they tried to make us get into a car but we still demanded that we would only get in a marked police car. Another car pulled up and four more guys started giving us shit. One pulled a gun and the others had knives, being totally outnumbered we were bundled into an old renault. They drove us out of the commercial area and we all knew what was comming, but for some reason I could not stop laughing. Lars was shitting himself, pleading with me to shut-up. They made us empty our pockets, but my money was hidden in a money belt and the idiots could not find it untill the guy in the front leaned over and slashed my shirt open with a flick-knife. The bastards then pushed us out while the car was still going. Luckly I did not land on my knife which was still strapped to my back and none of us were hurt. We got our bearings and walked back to the mission. Never been so glad to see a church in my life. Got pissed at night with Lars, Charlie and Patrik, laughing about how we could have got a real beating or even worse for just ?3 each.
Wednesday 31st March - Kinshasa, Zaire
Had to go out again to buy the food, went tooled up, not going to let these bastards get us again. Got the food this time OK. Spent the afternoon washing most of my clothes in the sink as we may be leaving soon. Charlie and Lars went out for a few beers and got pissed. I had just one Primary beer at night and was kept awake all night with bad guts. The idiots are not waiting for it to finish fermenting before its bottled.
Thursday 1st April - Kinshasa, heading east.
Bought 20 loaves of bread before leaving the site at 8. Passed through the outskirts of Kinshasa, past a lot big monuments and the half finished airport and railway station, what a perfect example of how not to run a country ! Road soon disintigrated back to a track after leaving the suburbs, climbed up the hills into scenery very much like the Peak District back home. Temperature cooled down as it became cloudy, made lunch of fish and corned beef. I still feel bad, only had bread and cheese. Made tea of rice, onions and tomatoes, it ran out so I had to open a tin of hot dogs for myself. Slept on the truck with Charlie, Neils and Lars. We are too high up for flies, but still got no sleep because of the shits.
Trek Through Africa: CONGO (Day 121-125)
Tuesday 23rd March - Congo, Equator
Still too hot to eat mid-day. I decided to go for 5 mile run instead. Every time I passed the locals on the road I asked in French how far was it to Brazzaville for a laugh, but I missed the group photo on the equator. Found a good place to camp, nice flat sand and plenty of room.
Wednesday 24th March - Congo
Travelled a total of 11 hours. Scenery has changed from jungle to scrub land, made more progress than yesterday. Put the tent in a stupid position on a steep slope. A rain storm continued all night, got no sleep.
Thursday 25th March - Brazzaville, Congo
Pissing down with rain, had to pack the tents away soaking wet and could not make breakfast. The road had turned into mud, the worst I have ever seen. Freezing cold and wet until we stopped after it had stopped raining so that we could change our clothes. Arrived in Brazzaville at lunch time. Went to the post office and collected three letters from home. Had a meal of chicken & chips in an expensive restaurant. Then on to a supermarch頴o get some more photographs for visas and photocopied my passport. Parked the truck in a mission compound in the city where we can sleep in some rooms in a big building. Had a binge on ice-cream, cakes and chocolate before cooking the evening meal of omelette and saut頰otatoes. Found a bar with Lars, Charlie, Mike, Claire and Julia. Slept on the truck.
Friday 26th March - Brazzaville, Congo
Made eggs for breakfast, Lars and Charlie went into town but I decided to stay behind and do the rest of my washing. Had a bath in a real bath then sorted my locker out. Later I went to the shops to buy some jam for the truck stores and a few things for myself to see me through Zaire. Had a good evening meal, Charlie and Lars booked themselves into a local hotel but I chose the cheaper option of sleeping in the corridor with Julia.
Saturday 27th March - Brazzaville, Congo
Went to the shops again spending my very last CFA on a big tin of biscuits, spread cheese and a bottle of Gin. Found out that in addition to the Zaire visa, we have to pay ?60 for a permit to travel through the gem mining district. Julia lent me 200FF after I had spent all my CFA. Had a beer with Charlie before everyone went off to see the congo river rapids. I decided to have another bath then a sleep on a double bed in one of the rooms. Everyone crammed into the main room at night.
Still too hot to eat mid-day. I decided to go for 5 mile run instead. Every time I passed the locals on the road I asked in French how far was it to Brazzaville for a laugh, but I missed the group photo on the equator. Found a good place to camp, nice flat sand and plenty of room.
Wednesday 24th March - Congo
Travelled a total of 11 hours. Scenery has changed from jungle to scrub land, made more progress than yesterday. Put the tent in a stupid position on a steep slope. A rain storm continued all night, got no sleep.
Thursday 25th March - Brazzaville, Congo
Pissing down with rain, had to pack the tents away soaking wet and could not make breakfast. The road had turned into mud, the worst I have ever seen. Freezing cold and wet until we stopped after it had stopped raining so that we could change our clothes. Arrived in Brazzaville at lunch time. Went to the post office and collected three letters from home. Had a meal of chicken & chips in an expensive restaurant. Then on to a supermarch頴o get some more photographs for visas and photocopied my passport. Parked the truck in a mission compound in the city where we can sleep in some rooms in a big building. Had a binge on ice-cream, cakes and chocolate before cooking the evening meal of omelette and saut頰otatoes. Found a bar with Lars, Charlie, Mike, Claire and Julia. Slept on the truck.
Friday 26th March - Brazzaville, Congo
Made eggs for breakfast, Lars and Charlie went into town but I decided to stay behind and do the rest of my washing. Had a bath in a real bath then sorted my locker out. Later I went to the shops to buy some jam for the truck stores and a few things for myself to see me through Zaire. Had a good evening meal, Charlie and Lars booked themselves into a local hotel but I chose the cheaper option of sleeping in the corridor with Julia.
Saturday 27th March - Brazzaville, Congo
Went to the shops again spending my very last CFA on a big tin of biscuits, spread cheese and a bottle of Gin. Found out that in addition to the Zaire visa, we have to pay ?60 for a permit to travel through the gem mining district. Julia lent me 200FF after I had spent all my CFA. Had a beer with Charlie before everyone went off to see the congo river rapids. I decided to have another bath then a sleep on a double bed in one of the rooms. Everyone crammed into the main room at night.
Trek Through Africa: CONGO (Day 116-120)
Thursday 18th March - Odzale Game Park - Congo
A car woke us up on the road in the morning which was quite a surprise. Road is a bit better now, so we are all back riding in the truck. We are almost a week overdue at the game park run by an English bloke and his American wife. She sent one of her employees on a motorbike with some supplies out for us. Found that we should get to Odzale later in the day. Passed through a few small villages, stopping at a small town. I went food shopping and spent all the kitty on next to nothing. Paid 5000 CFA into the beer kitty. At last we emerged from the jungle and made lunch on the edge. So good to be out in the open. Arrived at the game park in the afternoon. The game lodge is made of wood and reeds but seems like a palace after spending so long sleeping in tents. Went for a bath in the river then had a couple of hours sleep in one of the rooms. Did truck cleaning and waited over 3 hours for Andy and Kristen to make the evening meal ( soup & rice ) ! Shared a room with Lars, slept ok apart form him waking up all night saying that Buffalo were coming in the camp.
Friday 19th March - Odzale Game Park, Congo
Up at 5:00 and had a sandwich and made another one up for lunch. Set off with a couple of guides on a walking safari with Charlie, Lars, Jo and Metta at 5:45. Nice and cool at this time in the morning, though it soon warmed up. Crossed a river in a dugout canoe. Arrive back at 11 and went for another sleep, what a luxury a bed is, even is it is made out of straw. Had lunch then did all my washing in the river. Started to rain very hard, we all crammed into a small room that had a TV and Video to watch the video of the trip taken by Ian. Had an evening meal at the house followed by a few beers out on the patio. Read a few out of date British newspapers then slept on the truck, raining very hard all through the night.
Saturday 20th March - Odzale Game Park, Congo
Rained all morning. Just lazed about the camp, played monopoly and some more washing. Saw the rest of the video in the afternoon. Slept in Ian & Esthers room while they were out on a night safari with ? of the others. I could not be bothered, slept a full 11 hours instead.
Sunday 21st March - Odzale Game Park, Congo
I was right, they saw F.A. and had been awake all night. Used the gerry cans to collect water from a spring with the lads, then fixed the spare tent. Wrote a couple of letters home and slept in the tent, another good nights sleep.
Monday 22nd March - Congo
Packed tent away and had a group photo before going back into the town for some bread. Travelled all day on a very bumpy road, not much faster than walking. Now almost on the equator , very hot, did not eat anything for lunch. Listened to walkman in afternoon with Julia. Camped at the side of the road after cutting branches down to make room for the tent.
A car woke us up on the road in the morning which was quite a surprise. Road is a bit better now, so we are all back riding in the truck. We are almost a week overdue at the game park run by an English bloke and his American wife. She sent one of her employees on a motorbike with some supplies out for us. Found that we should get to Odzale later in the day. Passed through a few small villages, stopping at a small town. I went food shopping and spent all the kitty on next to nothing. Paid 5000 CFA into the beer kitty. At last we emerged from the jungle and made lunch on the edge. So good to be out in the open. Arrived at the game park in the afternoon. The game lodge is made of wood and reeds but seems like a palace after spending so long sleeping in tents. Went for a bath in the river then had a couple of hours sleep in one of the rooms. Did truck cleaning and waited over 3 hours for Andy and Kristen to make the evening meal ( soup & rice ) ! Shared a room with Lars, slept ok apart form him waking up all night saying that Buffalo were coming in the camp.
Friday 19th March - Odzale Game Park, Congo
Up at 5:00 and had a sandwich and made another one up for lunch. Set off with a couple of guides on a walking safari with Charlie, Lars, Jo and Metta at 5:45. Nice and cool at this time in the morning, though it soon warmed up. Crossed a river in a dugout canoe. Arrive back at 11 and went for another sleep, what a luxury a bed is, even is it is made out of straw. Had lunch then did all my washing in the river. Started to rain very hard, we all crammed into a small room that had a TV and Video to watch the video of the trip taken by Ian. Had an evening meal at the house followed by a few beers out on the patio. Read a few out of date British newspapers then slept on the truck, raining very hard all through the night.
Saturday 20th March - Odzale Game Park, Congo
Rained all morning. Just lazed about the camp, played monopoly and some more washing. Saw the rest of the video in the afternoon. Slept in Ian & Esthers room while they were out on a night safari with ? of the others. I could not be bothered, slept a full 11 hours instead.
Sunday 21st March - Odzale Game Park, Congo
I was right, they saw F.A. and had been awake all night. Used the gerry cans to collect water from a spring with the lads, then fixed the spare tent. Wrote a couple of letters home and slept in the tent, another good nights sleep.
Monday 22nd March - Congo
Packed tent away and had a group photo before going back into the town for some bread. Travelled all day on a very bumpy road, not much faster than walking. Now almost on the equator , very hot, did not eat anything for lunch. Listened to walkman in afternoon with Julia. Camped at the side of the road after cutting branches down to make room for the tent.
Trek Through Africa: CONGO (Day 111-115)
Saturday 13th March - Congo Jungle
Very hot working in the sun, but the hole is as wet as ever, dug for a few hour in the morning then I had had enough of this stinking mud and went for a wash before making lunch with our dwindling supplies. Collected loads of wood ready to make a ramp out of the hole, took hours to saw into hundreds of logs. Crashed out for an hour before cooking the evening meal, with Metta and Neils using the oven to bake some cakes. Had a party at night round our own camp fire.
Sunday 14th March - Congo Jungle
Up early, emptied the truck for food and tools, had difficulty making a fire. Had porridge and the cakes from last night for breakfast. Washed up in the river then went to work underneath the truck. Had a bit of a sleep out on the grass, then made our first attempt to move the truck at 3:30. Not successful ! Re-made the ramps and rigged ropes at the front so that as many people as possible could help pull. Second attempt at 4:40 moved the truck forward a few feet. Third attempt at 5.45 finally got the truck out, it looks battered and filthy but we are all very pleased. Parked the truck on the road . Celebrated by eating some Jamaica Rum chocolate that I had stashed away for 4 months. Had a wash in the river in the dark before crashing out, good nights sleep after all the drums in the village had gone quiet.
Monday 15th March - Congo Jungle
Everything on the truck is in a mess, sorted my locker out then helped Marion with the washing up in the river. Sorted more things out on the truck with Jo and Andy. Eventually got underway mid morning with all the people from the village cheering us on. Straight back in the thick of the jungle, got cut up again while in the dog box with the machet?. Had a small lunch on the road, then walked most of the afternoon taking turns with the machete. Came across a large tree that had fallen across the road, too large to move so we had to cut the smaller trees down and drive around it. While doing this, a swarm of small black flies turned the air black. Some people came close to panic after they landed on everyone. It became impossible to breathe without getting them in your mouth and nose. All work stopped as we were picking them out of our ears, eyes and scraping them off our bodies by the hundred. Took one hour to get past the tree and leave the flies behind. Made camp on the road half way up a hill. I collected some fire wood before trying to find a spot to pitch the tent. Was not easy as the tents had been put up all over the place. Last one to crash out but could not sleep.
Tuesday 16th March - Congo Jungle
Got up to find the camp in a real mess with litter everywhere which pissed me off. Walking speed all day, did not ride in the truck all day. Kristen and Jo ill and the only ones in the truck. Came to another bridge that needed to be widened to take the truck. Had to cut a fair bit of wood down to strengthen it. Stopped at a river for lunch and we all had a bath. Also filled the water tank up. Walked ahead with Charlie & Metta in the afternoon. So hot and humid, never seem to stop drinking. Camped in the light but still could not find any flat ground for the tent. Feel very tired, but felt a bit better once I had eaten. Had a meeting about the state of the camps and people losing tools which we cant afford to lose. Everyone tired and fed up of living on dehydrated food.
Wednesday 17th March - Congo Jungle
Had scones for breakfast while Ian and Patrik fixed a broken engine mount. Walking speed again all day, nothing to see apart from trees, trees and more bloody trees. Another tree blocked the road but we got round this one a bit easier than the last. Had to abandon lunch because of too many of the black flies again. Walked ahead on my own well into the afternoon, had to turn back when it got late to find that that they had stopped to make camp. Slept in the spare tent.
Very hot working in the sun, but the hole is as wet as ever, dug for a few hour in the morning then I had had enough of this stinking mud and went for a wash before making lunch with our dwindling supplies. Collected loads of wood ready to make a ramp out of the hole, took hours to saw into hundreds of logs. Crashed out for an hour before cooking the evening meal, with Metta and Neils using the oven to bake some cakes. Had a party at night round our own camp fire.
Sunday 14th March - Congo Jungle
Up early, emptied the truck for food and tools, had difficulty making a fire. Had porridge and the cakes from last night for breakfast. Washed up in the river then went to work underneath the truck. Had a bit of a sleep out on the grass, then made our first attempt to move the truck at 3:30. Not successful ! Re-made the ramps and rigged ropes at the front so that as many people as possible could help pull. Second attempt at 4:40 moved the truck forward a few feet. Third attempt at 5.45 finally got the truck out, it looks battered and filthy but we are all very pleased. Parked the truck on the road . Celebrated by eating some Jamaica Rum chocolate that I had stashed away for 4 months. Had a wash in the river in the dark before crashing out, good nights sleep after all the drums in the village had gone quiet.
Monday 15th March - Congo Jungle
Everything on the truck is in a mess, sorted my locker out then helped Marion with the washing up in the river. Sorted more things out on the truck with Jo and Andy. Eventually got underway mid morning with all the people from the village cheering us on. Straight back in the thick of the jungle, got cut up again while in the dog box with the machet?. Had a small lunch on the road, then walked most of the afternoon taking turns with the machete. Came across a large tree that had fallen across the road, too large to move so we had to cut the smaller trees down and drive around it. While doing this, a swarm of small black flies turned the air black. Some people came close to panic after they landed on everyone. It became impossible to breathe without getting them in your mouth and nose. All work stopped as we were picking them out of our ears, eyes and scraping them off our bodies by the hundred. Took one hour to get past the tree and leave the flies behind. Made camp on the road half way up a hill. I collected some fire wood before trying to find a spot to pitch the tent. Was not easy as the tents had been put up all over the place. Last one to crash out but could not sleep.
Tuesday 16th March - Congo Jungle
Got up to find the camp in a real mess with litter everywhere which pissed me off. Walking speed all day, did not ride in the truck all day. Kristen and Jo ill and the only ones in the truck. Came to another bridge that needed to be widened to take the truck. Had to cut a fair bit of wood down to strengthen it. Stopped at a river for lunch and we all had a bath. Also filled the water tank up. Walked ahead with Charlie & Metta in the afternoon. So hot and humid, never seem to stop drinking. Camped in the light but still could not find any flat ground for the tent. Feel very tired, but felt a bit better once I had eaten. Had a meeting about the state of the camps and people losing tools which we cant afford to lose. Everyone tired and fed up of living on dehydrated food.
Wednesday 17th March - Congo Jungle
Had scones for breakfast while Ian and Patrik fixed a broken engine mount. Walking speed again all day, nothing to see apart from trees, trees and more bloody trees. Another tree blocked the road but we got round this one a bit easier than the last. Had to abandon lunch because of too many of the black flies again. Walked ahead on my own well into the afternoon, had to turn back when it got late to find that that they had stopped to make camp. Slept in the spare tent.
Trek Through Africa: CONGO (Day 106-110)
Day 106 : Monday 8th March - Gabon
Only had four hours sleep before I had to get the fire going for breakfast, burnt my hand in a bowl of boiling water. Weather cold and wet in the morning, but warmed up in afternoon. Stopped in a town to try and get exit visas, but as per usual they invented problems why they can not issue them. If these people put half the effort into doing something productive as opposed to their obsession with beurocracy, then maybe they would not be in the shit state they are. As we are soon going into the jungle proper, three groups went shopping for supplies. I filled the water tank up at the last petrol station before the Congo. Passed more swamps and made camp in another gravel pit.
Day 107 : Tuesday 9th March - Gabon to The Congo
Loads of bees around in the morning and Lars got stung. Managed to get our exit visas OK this time. Towards the border, the road soon became overgrown. Traveling at walking pace, having to cut down branches from both sides and above, hard work doing this in the dog box. Crossed the border which consisted on a single large stone then on into the Congo. Soon began to rain, turning the track into mud, had to get out and walk the rest of the day as the truck was getting stuck. Often had to fill large holes in the track with stones and wood. Took all day to get up a hill. Made camp at the top in a narrow clearing. Covered head to toe in mud and soaking wet.
Wednesday 10th March - Congo Jungle
Made my own breakfast of bread & cheese. Clothes have dried off a bit now. Very heavy going, all had to walk after half hour, using machete?s again on a road that probably has not seen a vehicle since the last overland truck last year. Can get cool under the canopy if you are not working. Hit a hill that took us all day to climb, having to fill in holes and lay the mudmats down. Exhausted by lunch, this hill seems to go on for ever, it?s very hard to get perspective when all you can see are trees in all directions. Once over the hill we found that we will have to cross a creek with no bridge which is too deep and steep to ford. Got the chain saw out for the first time and cut a large log to make a bridge tomorrow, used the winch on the truck to tow it back to the creek. All had a bath before crashing out.
Thursday 11th March - Congo Jungle
Up early to make the bridge, got the logs in place and secured them with large stakes and ropes. Locals are coming to watch us work but don?t seem too interested in helping. Crossed our bridge after working all morning. Travelled only 200m to find a similar creek with the remains of an old bridge. Successfully managed to widen it to take the truck, though this took all afternoon. Crossed the bridge ok and entered a clearing in the middle of the jungle that contained a very neat village. We stopped for a while talking and taking pictures of the locals. After saying goodbye, we drove off to find a camp down the track. Patrik drove out of the village straight into a mud hole and we sank fast. It soon became clear that we would have to do a lot of work to dig it out. As there was not much light left we decided to make camp in the middle of the village which pleased the locals very much. They had a party late into the night drinking some local brew. I would not touch it after Patrick told me that every batch is blessed by the oldest woman in the village pissing in it.
Friday 12th March - Congo Jungle
Up early digging mud and bailing out water that has filled the hole and made matters 10 times worse. Everyone working very hard, we have no choice. Truck is in a worse position by the hour, decided to build a dam to divert the stream. Locals sold us a goat and cut the meat for us. Got bitten on my leg by a massive flying thing, totally covered in mud and oil, all had a bath together at night.
Only had four hours sleep before I had to get the fire going for breakfast, burnt my hand in a bowl of boiling water. Weather cold and wet in the morning, but warmed up in afternoon. Stopped in a town to try and get exit visas, but as per usual they invented problems why they can not issue them. If these people put half the effort into doing something productive as opposed to their obsession with beurocracy, then maybe they would not be in the shit state they are. As we are soon going into the jungle proper, three groups went shopping for supplies. I filled the water tank up at the last petrol station before the Congo. Passed more swamps and made camp in another gravel pit.
Day 107 : Tuesday 9th March - Gabon to The Congo
Loads of bees around in the morning and Lars got stung. Managed to get our exit visas OK this time. Towards the border, the road soon became overgrown. Traveling at walking pace, having to cut down branches from both sides and above, hard work doing this in the dog box. Crossed the border which consisted on a single large stone then on into the Congo. Soon began to rain, turning the track into mud, had to get out and walk the rest of the day as the truck was getting stuck. Often had to fill large holes in the track with stones and wood. Took all day to get up a hill. Made camp at the top in a narrow clearing. Covered head to toe in mud and soaking wet.
Wednesday 10th March - Congo Jungle
Made my own breakfast of bread & cheese. Clothes have dried off a bit now. Very heavy going, all had to walk after half hour, using machete?s again on a road that probably has not seen a vehicle since the last overland truck last year. Can get cool under the canopy if you are not working. Hit a hill that took us all day to climb, having to fill in holes and lay the mudmats down. Exhausted by lunch, this hill seems to go on for ever, it?s very hard to get perspective when all you can see are trees in all directions. Once over the hill we found that we will have to cross a creek with no bridge which is too deep and steep to ford. Got the chain saw out for the first time and cut a large log to make a bridge tomorrow, used the winch on the truck to tow it back to the creek. All had a bath before crashing out.
Thursday 11th March - Congo Jungle
Up early to make the bridge, got the logs in place and secured them with large stakes and ropes. Locals are coming to watch us work but don?t seem too interested in helping. Crossed our bridge after working all morning. Travelled only 200m to find a similar creek with the remains of an old bridge. Successfully managed to widen it to take the truck, though this took all afternoon. Crossed the bridge ok and entered a clearing in the middle of the jungle that contained a very neat village. We stopped for a while talking and taking pictures of the locals. After saying goodbye, we drove off to find a camp down the track. Patrik drove out of the village straight into a mud hole and we sank fast. It soon became clear that we would have to do a lot of work to dig it out. As there was not much light left we decided to make camp in the middle of the village which pleased the locals very much. They had a party late into the night drinking some local brew. I would not touch it after Patrick told me that every batch is blessed by the oldest woman in the village pissing in it.
Friday 12th March - Congo Jungle
Up early digging mud and bailing out water that has filled the hole and made matters 10 times worse. Everyone working very hard, we have no choice. Truck is in a worse position by the hour, decided to build a dam to divert the stream. Locals sold us a goat and cut the meat for us. Got bitten on my leg by a massive flying thing, totally covered in mud and oil, all had a bath together at night.
Trek Through Africa: GABON (Day 101-105)
Day 101 : Wednesday 3rd March - Younde
Got woke up by Metta for a shift at guarding the truck with Charlie from 5 to 6am. After that had another hours sleep then went for a shower in the mission. Went a walk round the city on my own, raining very hard all day, but quite warm. Wrote a couple of postcards home. Did another truck guard shift with Jo. Went to an American Bar and met a couple of Aussie girls on the Economic truck, had a few beers with them before going to a café with Lars and Charlie for some chips. Had another beer in the bar, posted the cards home then camped on a side road. Kristen is not well and fainted in the truck. Only had potatoes for tea, listened to walkman with Julia before crashing out.
Day 102 : Thursday 4th March - Cameroon / Gabon Border
Sick straight after breakfast. Listned to walkman again with Julia then slept on the dog box for an hour when we stopped in a small town. Road got better on way to the river border. Found that the ferry was broke so we set off for another crossing only to find out that the had closed until tomorrow. Cut the wood for the fire then slept on the truck with Jo, Bobbie & Julia under a mosqueto net.
Day 103 : Friday 5th March - Cameroon / Gabon Border
Got up at 5:30 in the pissing rain and got soaked. Arrived at the border early , Ian and Patrik crossed over at 8:00 to sort everything out with the police. Read a book then had a game of monopoly. Went to a café for an omlette then onto a bar near the river for a beer. Had a sleep on the truck then went to another bar. Crossed the river border at 6:00, customs & police no problem. Had to camp on the road, a pissed up woman arrived at night, I lost a machete making a clearing. Tent was second worst ever.
Day 104 : Saturday 6th March - Cameroon / Gabon Border
Got woke up at 6:30 by a woman complaining that we had damaged her banana plants,left quickly. Into a town called Bitan to get our entry confirmation. Went food shopping and changed some money in a supermarche, then had lunch out on a field. Found a river for a wash in the afternoon, passed through a nice town called Oyem. Camped in a gravel pit, had more G&T late into the night.
Day 105 : Sunday 7th March - Gabon
Left at 7:30 and drove all day, passed through Mitzio. Had lunch by a creek with loads of locals watching us. Passing through swamps and jungle. Camped in a clearing and made supper. Up late drinking before sleeping on the truck.
Got woke up by Metta for a shift at guarding the truck with Charlie from 5 to 6am. After that had another hours sleep then went for a shower in the mission. Went a walk round the city on my own, raining very hard all day, but quite warm. Wrote a couple of postcards home. Did another truck guard shift with Jo. Went to an American Bar and met a couple of Aussie girls on the Economic truck, had a few beers with them before going to a café with Lars and Charlie for some chips. Had another beer in the bar, posted the cards home then camped on a side road. Kristen is not well and fainted in the truck. Only had potatoes for tea, listened to walkman with Julia before crashing out.
Day 102 : Thursday 4th March - Cameroon / Gabon Border
Sick straight after breakfast. Listned to walkman again with Julia then slept on the dog box for an hour when we stopped in a small town. Road got better on way to the river border. Found that the ferry was broke so we set off for another crossing only to find out that the had closed until tomorrow. Cut the wood for the fire then slept on the truck with Jo, Bobbie & Julia under a mosqueto net.
Day 103 : Friday 5th March - Cameroon / Gabon Border
Got up at 5:30 in the pissing rain and got soaked. Arrived at the border early , Ian and Patrik crossed over at 8:00 to sort everything out with the police. Read a book then had a game of monopoly. Went to a café for an omlette then onto a bar near the river for a beer. Had a sleep on the truck then went to another bar. Crossed the river border at 6:00, customs & police no problem. Had to camp on the road, a pissed up woman arrived at night, I lost a machete making a clearing. Tent was second worst ever.
Day 104 : Saturday 6th March - Cameroon / Gabon Border
Got woke up at 6:30 by a woman complaining that we had damaged her banana plants,left quickly. Into a town called Bitan to get our entry confirmation. Went food shopping and changed some money in a supermarche, then had lunch out on a field. Found a river for a wash in the afternoon, passed through a nice town called Oyem. Camped in a gravel pit, had more G&T late into the night.
Day 105 : Sunday 7th March - Gabon
Left at 7:30 and drove all day, passed through Mitzio. Had lunch by a creek with loads of locals watching us. Passing through swamps and jungle. Camped in a clearing and made supper. Up late drinking before sleeping on the truck.
Trek Through Africa: CAMEROON (Day 96-100)
Day 96 : Friday 26th Feb - Duala
Set off early for Duala, parked next to some smart shops and changed some money on the street, bought a pint of flavoured milk, drank it and felt sick. Drove to Baue to see mount Cameroon from a different side, we still could not camp anywhere near it. In the end we had to break into a plantation and camp there. Bobbie & Jo made beefburgers for tea and I did the fire. Nowhere for us to put the tent, gave up in the end and threw it on some plants. A tropical storm came down the mountain causing the to tent collapsed over and over again, had no sleep.
Day 97 : Saturday 27th Feb - Credi
Hurt my back in the night lying on the rubber plants, the owners came round early on and started giving us hassle so we drove off without any breakfast. Stopped in a town later in the morning, bought some brochettes and had a large G&T from a roadside bar. Got down to the coast at lunch time, went swimming in the sea but it was a bit dirty. Walked up the beach to a hotel but it was too up market and expensive to stay the night, getting a bit worried about the amount of money left before I can get to an International bank. Had a sleep then went to a local bar up the road with Julia, Bobbie & Jo for a beer. Kenny did not make the meal till 10:00 the meat looked a bit off so I left it. Not feeling too well stayed on the truck and read a book to take my mind off my killing back.
Day 98 : Sunday 28th Feb - Credi
Got up late then went for a swim, tried to get some more sleep in the tent but it got too hot. Feeling feverish and aching all over, starting to hallucinate, decided to take my Halfen anti-malarial. Managed to walk to the posh hotel and drink some spring water, but still can't face any food. Went for a dip at night to cool down with Jo, Bobbie, Kristin and Andy. Had a shower then crashed out.
Day 99 : Monday 1st March - Credi
Feel so bad, but there is not much I can do about it, missed breakfast again. Went into the village up the road for food shopping, bought some stuff from a supermarché, met some women who wanted us to go back to their place for a meal. Had a yoghurt then threw it up. Had a shower then made lunch of coleslaw salad, tried to eat a bit. Travelled up the road for a bit then camped early, made Swedish sausage & mash for the evening meal in the light for once. Slept on the truck, Bobbie gave me an ibroupofen for my back, had a good sleep.
Day 100 : Tuesday 2nd March - Younde
Made breakfast early, feeling a lot better, but Julia isn?t (hangover). Sat in the kitchen corner of the truck because of my back. Into Younde for 12 noon and set off to the bank. Changed 500FF into CFA. Spent 20,000CFA = ?50 at the supermarché on personal food store ready for the Congo and Zaire. Bought biscuits, orange juice, tinned meat, paté, chocolate, raisins, jam, insect repellent, spread cheese and a new pair of headphones. Rang home and spoke to Dad for 2000 CFA. Had a drink with Jo and Julia. Picked up two letters from home from the post office. Went shopping again in the afternoon. Started to rain very hard. At night stored all the stuff away in my locker while we were parked in the Presbyterian mission. Had to guard the truck all night with Bobby and Julia.
Set off early for Duala, parked next to some smart shops and changed some money on the street, bought a pint of flavoured milk, drank it and felt sick. Drove to Baue to see mount Cameroon from a different side, we still could not camp anywhere near it. In the end we had to break into a plantation and camp there. Bobbie & Jo made beefburgers for tea and I did the fire. Nowhere for us to put the tent, gave up in the end and threw it on some plants. A tropical storm came down the mountain causing the to tent collapsed over and over again, had no sleep.
Day 97 : Saturday 27th Feb - Credi
Hurt my back in the night lying on the rubber plants, the owners came round early on and started giving us hassle so we drove off without any breakfast. Stopped in a town later in the morning, bought some brochettes and had a large G&T from a roadside bar. Got down to the coast at lunch time, went swimming in the sea but it was a bit dirty. Walked up the beach to a hotel but it was too up market and expensive to stay the night, getting a bit worried about the amount of money left before I can get to an International bank. Had a sleep then went to a local bar up the road with Julia, Bobbie & Jo for a beer. Kenny did not make the meal till 10:00 the meat looked a bit off so I left it. Not feeling too well stayed on the truck and read a book to take my mind off my killing back.
Day 98 : Sunday 28th Feb - Credi
Got up late then went for a swim, tried to get some more sleep in the tent but it got too hot. Feeling feverish and aching all over, starting to hallucinate, decided to take my Halfen anti-malarial. Managed to walk to the posh hotel and drink some spring water, but still can't face any food. Went for a dip at night to cool down with Jo, Bobbie, Kristin and Andy. Had a shower then crashed out.
Day 99 : Monday 1st March - Credi
Feel so bad, but there is not much I can do about it, missed breakfast again. Went into the village up the road for food shopping, bought some stuff from a supermarché, met some women who wanted us to go back to their place for a meal. Had a yoghurt then threw it up. Had a shower then made lunch of coleslaw salad, tried to eat a bit. Travelled up the road for a bit then camped early, made Swedish sausage & mash for the evening meal in the light for once. Slept on the truck, Bobbie gave me an ibroupofen for my back, had a good sleep.
Day 100 : Tuesday 2nd March - Younde
Made breakfast early, feeling a lot better, but Julia isn?t (hangover). Sat in the kitchen corner of the truck because of my back. Into Younde for 12 noon and set off to the bank. Changed 500FF into CFA. Spent 20,000CFA = ?50 at the supermarché on personal food store ready for the Congo and Zaire. Bought biscuits, orange juice, tinned meat, paté, chocolate, raisins, jam, insect repellent, spread cheese and a new pair of headphones. Rang home and spoke to Dad for 2000 CFA. Had a drink with Jo and Julia. Picked up two letters from home from the post office. Went shopping again in the afternoon. Started to rain very hard. At night stored all the stuff away in my locker while we were parked in the Presbyterian mission. Had to guard the truck all night with Bobby and Julia.
Trek Through Africa: CAMEROON (Day 91-95)
Day 91 : Sunday 21st Feb - Enugu to Cameroon Boarder
Up at 6:30 for a wash then sorted my locker out while waiting for the food groups to return, wrote this diary for the last week. Went for a walk to the shops with Bobbie and got a lift back off Isabel in her car. Said goodbye to George & Isabel then drove all day to the border on a poor road for Nigeria. Camped 5km before the boarder with Cameroon, slept on the truck, loads of bugs around in the jungle.
Day 92 : Monday 22nd Feb - Mamfe, Cameroon
Got to Mamfe on the Cameroon boarder at 8:30, took over two hours to get across. There is more to see now the countryside is becoming more mountainous away from the plains of West Africa. Crossed a large river at lunch time, helped Andy & Kristin make lunch, then went for a swim and a wash in the fast flowing clean river. Drove till 6:30 just before Mamfe and rough camped.
Day 93 : Tuesday 23rd Feb - West Cameroon
Drove all day up and down mountains on a dirt track, jungles at the bottom and bush land further up, about the best scenery so far. Got stopped by the police in the afternoon, our papers are not in order but we managed to talk our way through with the help of the obligatory bribe. I had to go food shopping but the currency has changed from Central Afrique Franc CFA to West Afrique Franc WFA. Could not get any changed, but Patrick managed to buy some bread with $US. Camped at 4000 feet up a mountain and used a dehydrated meal from the stocks. Slept on the truck, very cool for once.
Day 94 : Wednesday 24th Feb - Bafoussam
Made breakfast at 6:00am then drove to Bamenda for 8:30 to change some money. Left there to visit the Fons palace at Bfang, I was too tired to play tourist so I slept up on the dog box in the shade of some trees. Had a drink in a house bar and helped with lunch. Drove to Bafoussam in the mountains then up mount Cameroon. Up at a very high altitude and quite cold, started digging out extra clothes from deep in our lockers but most of them were sent home in Ghana. We could not find a place to camp so we had to come back down the mountain, getting very late. Managed to camp in someone?s garden for a small fee.
Day 95 : Thursday 25th Feb - Chutes D.'Ekon
Drove for three hours heading for the famous waterfalls. Feeling a lot more energetic now, I ran 5km down hill ahead of the truck in the mid day sun. Put out tents up in a sheltered glade the did loads of washing in the pools above the waterfalls. We were warned not to go swimming too far out as an Exodus passenger was lost last year over the 300 feet waterfall. Went a walk with Julia to take some photos then crashed out early.
Up at 6:30 for a wash then sorted my locker out while waiting for the food groups to return, wrote this diary for the last week. Went for a walk to the shops with Bobbie and got a lift back off Isabel in her car. Said goodbye to George & Isabel then drove all day to the border on a poor road for Nigeria. Camped 5km before the boarder with Cameroon, slept on the truck, loads of bugs around in the jungle.
Day 92 : Monday 22nd Feb - Mamfe, Cameroon
Got to Mamfe on the Cameroon boarder at 8:30, took over two hours to get across. There is more to see now the countryside is becoming more mountainous away from the plains of West Africa. Crossed a large river at lunch time, helped Andy & Kristin make lunch, then went for a swim and a wash in the fast flowing clean river. Drove till 6:30 just before Mamfe and rough camped.
Day 93 : Tuesday 23rd Feb - West Cameroon
Drove all day up and down mountains on a dirt track, jungles at the bottom and bush land further up, about the best scenery so far. Got stopped by the police in the afternoon, our papers are not in order but we managed to talk our way through with the help of the obligatory bribe. I had to go food shopping but the currency has changed from Central Afrique Franc CFA to West Afrique Franc WFA. Could not get any changed, but Patrick managed to buy some bread with $US. Camped at 4000 feet up a mountain and used a dehydrated meal from the stocks. Slept on the truck, very cool for once.
Day 94 : Wednesday 24th Feb - Bafoussam
Made breakfast at 6:00am then drove to Bamenda for 8:30 to change some money. Left there to visit the Fons palace at Bfang, I was too tired to play tourist so I slept up on the dog box in the shade of some trees. Had a drink in a house bar and helped with lunch. Drove to Bafoussam in the mountains then up mount Cameroon. Up at a very high altitude and quite cold, started digging out extra clothes from deep in our lockers but most of them were sent home in Ghana. We could not find a place to camp so we had to come back down the mountain, getting very late. Managed to camp in someone?s garden for a small fee.
Day 95 : Thursday 25th Feb - Chutes D.'Ekon
Drove for three hours heading for the famous waterfalls. Feeling a lot more energetic now, I ran 5km down hill ahead of the truck in the mid day sun. Put out tents up in a sheltered glade the did loads of washing in the pools above the waterfalls. We were warned not to go swimming too far out as an Exodus passenger was lost last year over the 300 feet waterfall. Went a walk with Julia to take some photos then crashed out early.
Trek Through Africa: NIGERIA (Day 86-90)
Day 86 : Tuesday 16th Feb - Benin / Lagos, Nigeria
All the camp was a real mess with people trying to dry things out. Rode in the dog box all day to the Nigerian boarder. The border post is almost a small town and very busy, took two hours to get through. Very hot and not much to see. Got to the suburbs of Lagos a massive city while it was still light. By the time we found the YMCA it was dark, parked the truck on a car park next to an office block. Andy and Kristin cooked a good meal then we put up the tents in a compound round the back. Nigeria was playing Ghana in the world cup qualifiers, the locals did not bother going to bed they just kept arguing all night long, one even started washing pans next to our tent at 4:30 in the morning, not a wink of sleep.
Day 87 : Wednesday 17th Feb - Lagos
Walked round the block in the morning to try and get rid of a headache, then into town to get some Nira from a Forex bureau, got 1270 Nira for 15,000 CFA = ?30. The visa for Cameroon cost another 15,000 CFA, sat in the cab guarding the truck at the embassy. Bobbie and Julia are flying to Enugu to stay with some relatives, we will be meeting them there in a few days. Into town centre for a burger with Lars from a fast food place, then to some banks and a supermarket. Decided to stay in a Hotel tomorrow, can't tonight because it is our turn to sleep on the truck. Got a taxi to a hotel in a guide book, luckily it was a fixed fare, journey took a couple of hours in the traffic, booked in for Thursday. Back to the truck and a bit more shopping in the chemist and a supermarket. Went for a very nice Indian meal with Jo, Charlie and Lars. Slept in the truck with Charlie, Lars and Jo in the cab. Used Bobbies mosquito net, very warm and humid all night. Lars slept on the floor of the truck and got bit 1000 times all over his body.
Day 88 : Thursday 18th Feb - Lagos
Made cornflakes and toast for breakfast on the gas rings. Into town with the truck, then got a taxi with Andy and Kristin to the British Airways offices to buy a flight home but they were too expensive, $1200 from Cape Town. Got another taxi back to the town centre, changed some money on the black market in the main street, always get nervous about getting ripped off but it was OK. Bought a camera from an Argos for ?20, did a stint of truck guard while it was parked on a side street with no shade in very hot sun. Got a taxi to the hotel with Charlie and Lars. Had a sandwich from the bar then a bath and a sleep. Had a meal in the hotel but it was not very good, went out but we could not find anywhere to go, back into the hotel bar, drank them out of brandy, 20p per shot. Some ugly prostitutes came over but they left when we said that we did not want anything from them. Finished off the remaining brandy in the room watching CNN and football on the TV. Excellent nights sleep in an air conditioned room, almost forgot what it feels like to be cool.
Day 89 : Friday 19th Feb - Lagos to Ijebu-Ode
Slept in late, had another bath then got a taxi into town. Found an English cafe and had a breakfast of pies etc. Spent the last of my money in a supermarket on 10 Mars bars as an emergency store if things get bad in the Congo. Did truck guard then sorted my locker out. The girls have spent hundreds of pounds out of the food kitty restocking the stores on the truck, we have managed to get most of what we need. Up on the dog box heading east out of Lagos, soon in a thick rain forest, it is the hottest and most humid day that I have ever experienced. While collecting and storing wood I was drinking three pints of water an hour, didn't think it was possible to sweat this much. Had a large vodka with Charlie before we hit the tent.
Day 90 : Saturday 20th Feb - Ijebu-Ode to Enugu
Up later than everyone else, grabbed a bit of bread for breakfast. My back is killing, could not ride on the dog box without it getting worse, listened to my walkman all day until the batteries ran out. Stopped in Benin City, helped change a wheel with Patrick, had a short walk round, took a photo of a statue of British soldiers getting shot with bows and arrows. Made my own lunch of hot dogs, the weather is overcast but still very hot and humid. Stopped at a modern petrol station and spent the last few coins left on some crisps. Arrived in Enugu at 7 and parked in the main street and waited for Bobbie and Julia to meet us with George and Isabel. Followed them back to their house, very large in a decent suburb, made a large chilli with 3kg of meat in the middle of the road in front of their house. Had a couple of cold beers from a bar, then spent ages walking round the streets looking for their two lads who had gone out for more beer, found them very late on with Metta and Julia. Slept in a bedroom upstairs with Bobbie and Julia.
All the camp was a real mess with people trying to dry things out. Rode in the dog box all day to the Nigerian boarder. The border post is almost a small town and very busy, took two hours to get through. Very hot and not much to see. Got to the suburbs of Lagos a massive city while it was still light. By the time we found the YMCA it was dark, parked the truck on a car park next to an office block. Andy and Kristin cooked a good meal then we put up the tents in a compound round the back. Nigeria was playing Ghana in the world cup qualifiers, the locals did not bother going to bed they just kept arguing all night long, one even started washing pans next to our tent at 4:30 in the morning, not a wink of sleep.
Day 87 : Wednesday 17th Feb - Lagos
Walked round the block in the morning to try and get rid of a headache, then into town to get some Nira from a Forex bureau, got 1270 Nira for 15,000 CFA = ?30. The visa for Cameroon cost another 15,000 CFA, sat in the cab guarding the truck at the embassy. Bobbie and Julia are flying to Enugu to stay with some relatives, we will be meeting them there in a few days. Into town centre for a burger with Lars from a fast food place, then to some banks and a supermarket. Decided to stay in a Hotel tomorrow, can't tonight because it is our turn to sleep on the truck. Got a taxi to a hotel in a guide book, luckily it was a fixed fare, journey took a couple of hours in the traffic, booked in for Thursday. Back to the truck and a bit more shopping in the chemist and a supermarket. Went for a very nice Indian meal with Jo, Charlie and Lars. Slept in the truck with Charlie, Lars and Jo in the cab. Used Bobbies mosquito net, very warm and humid all night. Lars slept on the floor of the truck and got bit 1000 times all over his body.
Day 88 : Thursday 18th Feb - Lagos
Made cornflakes and toast for breakfast on the gas rings. Into town with the truck, then got a taxi with Andy and Kristin to the British Airways offices to buy a flight home but they were too expensive, $1200 from Cape Town. Got another taxi back to the town centre, changed some money on the black market in the main street, always get nervous about getting ripped off but it was OK. Bought a camera from an Argos for ?20, did a stint of truck guard while it was parked on a side street with no shade in very hot sun. Got a taxi to the hotel with Charlie and Lars. Had a sandwich from the bar then a bath and a sleep. Had a meal in the hotel but it was not very good, went out but we could not find anywhere to go, back into the hotel bar, drank them out of brandy, 20p per shot. Some ugly prostitutes came over but they left when we said that we did not want anything from them. Finished off the remaining brandy in the room watching CNN and football on the TV. Excellent nights sleep in an air conditioned room, almost forgot what it feels like to be cool.
Day 89 : Friday 19th Feb - Lagos to Ijebu-Ode
Slept in late, had another bath then got a taxi into town. Found an English cafe and had a breakfast of pies etc. Spent the last of my money in a supermarket on 10 Mars bars as an emergency store if things get bad in the Congo. Did truck guard then sorted my locker out. The girls have spent hundreds of pounds out of the food kitty restocking the stores on the truck, we have managed to get most of what we need. Up on the dog box heading east out of Lagos, soon in a thick rain forest, it is the hottest and most humid day that I have ever experienced. While collecting and storing wood I was drinking three pints of water an hour, didn't think it was possible to sweat this much. Had a large vodka with Charlie before we hit the tent.
Day 90 : Saturday 20th Feb - Ijebu-Ode to Enugu
Up later than everyone else, grabbed a bit of bread for breakfast. My back is killing, could not ride on the dog box without it getting worse, listened to my walkman all day until the batteries ran out. Stopped in Benin City, helped change a wheel with Patrick, had a short walk round, took a photo of a statue of British soldiers getting shot with bows and arrows. Made my own lunch of hot dogs, the weather is overcast but still very hot and humid. Stopped at a modern petrol station and spent the last few coins left on some crisps. Arrived in Enugu at 7 and parked in the main street and waited for Bobbie and Julia to meet us with George and Isabel. Followed them back to their house, very large in a decent suburb, made a large chilli with 3kg of meat in the middle of the road in front of their house. Had a couple of cold beers from a bar, then spent ages walking round the streets looking for their two lads who had gone out for more beer, found them very late on with Metta and Julia. Slept in a bedroom upstairs with Bobbie and Julia.
Trek Through Africa: TOGO - BENIN (Day 81-85)
Day 81 : Thursday 11th Feb - Accra
Made breakfast at 5.30 to leave for the Nigerian embassy and beat the Economic trucks, went to meet the Danes but they did not turn up. At the embassy had to wait an hour before it opened, managed to dry my washing by the side of the road that had been wet for days. Good to be able to speak English with the locals, bought some ice-pops off a bloke on a bike. Back into town and did truck guard with Charlie in a town centre car park. Decided to stay the night in a hotel with Charlie and Lars. Flagged a taxi down and he took us to a massive hotel on the outskirts of town called the Rivera Beach. Got a room each for 11,000 cedes. Had a sleep then a shower. Went down for a meal in the hotel, almost empty. Walked into town and then got a taxi to the Novohotel, feel out of place in expensive hotels like this. Had a beer then left, walked round Accra, down some dark streets but it seemed OK, could not find a decent place, so we got a taxi back to the hotel. A bloke in the hotel then took us to the Kilimanjiro club, smart place, stayed there for a while then got a taxi back to the hotel.
Day 82 : Friday 12th Feb - Accra
Got up for breakfast but found that I had spent almost all of my money. Walked back into town and bought an ice-cream before meeting the truck outside the post office. walked round town to try and find a camera, went in a couple of computer shops. Bought a mask off the market for 14, sent it home with Julia's stuff. Saw Blue Peter filming round the centre of town. Left at 3:30 and took a motorway heading east through Ghana towards Togo. Made a camp and struggled to get a fire going.
Day 83 : Saturday 13th Feb - Ghana / Togo / Benin
Had a better nights sleep but still feel very tired, with all the civil unrest in Togo we were the only vehicle going into the country. We had to put the sides down on the truck and no one was allowed in the dog box, crossed the border with almost no checks, and passed lines of refuges heading out. No action at all in the countryside, so quiet I fell asleep. The capital Lome was still smouldering after the riots, did not hang around, soon at the border with Benin. Managed to jump the massive queue to get through, but it still took a long time. Drove along the coast road and stopped at a Hotel / campsite on the beach just through the town of Cotonou. Washed some clothes and towels in detol and soap then went to the bar. Met some English teachers that had fled the trouble in Togo and were waiting for it to quieten down before going. Read some British papers and had four pints, got quite pissed. Could not find my tent, then remembered that I hadn?t put it up. Walked into a giant cactus and hurt my left leg and knee. Crashed out in Julia?s. tent
Day 84 : Sunday 14th Feb - Benin
Had little sleep with my leg hurting all night. Everyone went on a trip to a village built on stilts in the middle of a swamp, me and Lars decided to stay on the campsite. Went for a very good meal in the hotel and organised a group meal for tonight. Tried to sleep in the afternoon but it got too hot. Went for a meal at the same place at night but the service and food were not that good. Charlie missed it again because he was unwell.
Day 85 : Monday 15th Feb - Benin
Up at 6:15 to beat the Economic trucks again to the Nigerian embassy in Cotonou. Spent three hours in town, bought some stores in the supermarché and then waited in an air-conditioned patisserie. Went to a voodoo market and wrote a couple of letters. Back to the camp on the dog box, made a fire for Julia and Jo then went for a swim in the sea. Could not wait for the girls to cook a meal so I had a chicken sandwich and chips from the hotel. Went to bed early, a storm came in very quickly and caught us with no fly sheets on, everything got soaked, tent full of water.
Made breakfast at 5.30 to leave for the Nigerian embassy and beat the Economic trucks, went to meet the Danes but they did not turn up. At the embassy had to wait an hour before it opened, managed to dry my washing by the side of the road that had been wet for days. Good to be able to speak English with the locals, bought some ice-pops off a bloke on a bike. Back into town and did truck guard with Charlie in a town centre car park. Decided to stay the night in a hotel with Charlie and Lars. Flagged a taxi down and he took us to a massive hotel on the outskirts of town called the Rivera Beach. Got a room each for 11,000 cedes. Had a sleep then a shower. Went down for a meal in the hotel, almost empty. Walked into town and then got a taxi to the Novohotel, feel out of place in expensive hotels like this. Had a beer then left, walked round Accra, down some dark streets but it seemed OK, could not find a decent place, so we got a taxi back to the hotel. A bloke in the hotel then took us to the Kilimanjiro club, smart place, stayed there for a while then got a taxi back to the hotel.
Day 82 : Friday 12th Feb - Accra
Got up for breakfast but found that I had spent almost all of my money. Walked back into town and bought an ice-cream before meeting the truck outside the post office. walked round town to try and find a camera, went in a couple of computer shops. Bought a mask off the market for 14, sent it home with Julia's stuff. Saw Blue Peter filming round the centre of town. Left at 3:30 and took a motorway heading east through Ghana towards Togo. Made a camp and struggled to get a fire going.
Day 83 : Saturday 13th Feb - Ghana / Togo / Benin
Had a better nights sleep but still feel very tired, with all the civil unrest in Togo we were the only vehicle going into the country. We had to put the sides down on the truck and no one was allowed in the dog box, crossed the border with almost no checks, and passed lines of refuges heading out. No action at all in the countryside, so quiet I fell asleep. The capital Lome was still smouldering after the riots, did not hang around, soon at the border with Benin. Managed to jump the massive queue to get through, but it still took a long time. Drove along the coast road and stopped at a Hotel / campsite on the beach just through the town of Cotonou. Washed some clothes and towels in detol and soap then went to the bar. Met some English teachers that had fled the trouble in Togo and were waiting for it to quieten down before going. Read some British papers and had four pints, got quite pissed. Could not find my tent, then remembered that I hadn?t put it up. Walked into a giant cactus and hurt my left leg and knee. Crashed out in Julia?s. tent
Day 84 : Sunday 14th Feb - Benin
Had little sleep with my leg hurting all night. Everyone went on a trip to a village built on stilts in the middle of a swamp, me and Lars decided to stay on the campsite. Went for a very good meal in the hotel and organised a group meal for tonight. Tried to sleep in the afternoon but it got too hot. Went for a meal at the same place at night but the service and food were not that good. Charlie missed it again because he was unwell.
Day 85 : Monday 15th Feb - Benin
Up at 6:15 to beat the Economic trucks again to the Nigerian embassy in Cotonou. Spent three hours in town, bought some stores in the supermarché and then waited in an air-conditioned patisserie. Went to a voodoo market and wrote a couple of letters. Back to the camp on the dog box, made a fire for Julia and Jo then went for a swim in the sea. Could not wait for the girls to cook a meal so I had a chicken sandwich and chips from the hotel. Went to bed early, a storm came in very quickly and caught us with no fly sheets on, everything got soaked, tent full of water.
Trek Through Africa: GHANA (Day 76-80)
Day 76 : Saturday 6th Feb - Beach, Ivory Coast
Made scrambled eggs for breakfast, very nice. Went for another run but it was too hot. Had a swim but the waves are too big and hurting my back. Fishermen brought the net in again but not much of a catch.
Day 77 : Sunday 7th Feb - Beach, Ivory Coast
Woke up without a care in the world, started thinking about everyone at home in the freezing winter, ha ha. Had a lazy day doing nothing. Got pissed again at night. Went back to our tent and found that it had been robbed. Charlie?s sleeping bag and torch had gone and a few of my clothes that I had just washed in the sea.
Day 78 : Monday 8th Feb - Beach to Ghana
Drove into Abidjan over the ferry again, Patrick came with us to report the robbery to the police, I could have done with going to the bank but a report of the police will be worth more in the long run. First police station was only a jail. Managed to make a report at the second one and got confirmation off them in letter headed note for the insurance. Bought some fast food on the way back to the truck, then headed to the border with Ghana. Got there no trouble then rough camped ready to cross it in the morning.
Day 79 : Tuesday 9th Feb - Dixcove, Ghana
Made the crossing at Elubo into Ghana, loads of forms to fill in, could not be bothered, made mine all up. Took two hours in the morning sun, very hot, soon got dehydrated and feel faint, had to keep pouring water over my head. Finally got through and headed to Dixcove, a resort on the beach. Went swimming as soon as we got there and had a meeting in the sea, waves are not as big here. Came out and then had an omelette for lunch in the cafe bar together with a few beers with Charlie and Lars. Met a Dragoman expedition coming north that had just come through Zaire and the Congo, these guys are in bad shape, very pale, ill with malaria and low in spirits, had another beer for every bad story they told us. There was no space to put the tent up properly, went a walk with Julia at night, not much sleep because of the idiot place we had put our tent.
Day 80 : Wednesday 10th Feb - Accra
Would have like to stay on the beach another day but Marion is very ill, drove towards Accra, found a large hospital and took Marion in, she can't even walk. Made lunch outside the hospital grounds, did not put much effort into it. The test results confirmed that Marion has got typhoid and needs to get to a better equipped hospital. Had to miss the Danish fort as we drove balls out for Accra. Got there in the dark and dropped Marion and Kenny off at the hospital, some of the Danes left the truck for a night in a hotel. Made egg fried rice for tea next to two Economic trucks in a camp site on the coast. Had a beer with Charlie and Julia on the hotel patio before crashing out on the truck.
Made scrambled eggs for breakfast, very nice. Went for another run but it was too hot. Had a swim but the waves are too big and hurting my back. Fishermen brought the net in again but not much of a catch.
Day 77 : Sunday 7th Feb - Beach, Ivory Coast
Woke up without a care in the world, started thinking about everyone at home in the freezing winter, ha ha. Had a lazy day doing nothing. Got pissed again at night. Went back to our tent and found that it had been robbed. Charlie?s sleeping bag and torch had gone and a few of my clothes that I had just washed in the sea.
Day 78 : Monday 8th Feb - Beach to Ghana
Drove into Abidjan over the ferry again, Patrick came with us to report the robbery to the police, I could have done with going to the bank but a report of the police will be worth more in the long run. First police station was only a jail. Managed to make a report at the second one and got confirmation off them in letter headed note for the insurance. Bought some fast food on the way back to the truck, then headed to the border with Ghana. Got there no trouble then rough camped ready to cross it in the morning.
Day 79 : Tuesday 9th Feb - Dixcove, Ghana
Made the crossing at Elubo into Ghana, loads of forms to fill in, could not be bothered, made mine all up. Took two hours in the morning sun, very hot, soon got dehydrated and feel faint, had to keep pouring water over my head. Finally got through and headed to Dixcove, a resort on the beach. Went swimming as soon as we got there and had a meeting in the sea, waves are not as big here. Came out and then had an omelette for lunch in the cafe bar together with a few beers with Charlie and Lars. Met a Dragoman expedition coming north that had just come through Zaire and the Congo, these guys are in bad shape, very pale, ill with malaria and low in spirits, had another beer for every bad story they told us. There was no space to put the tent up properly, went a walk with Julia at night, not much sleep because of the idiot place we had put our tent.
Day 80 : Wednesday 10th Feb - Accra
Would have like to stay on the beach another day but Marion is very ill, drove towards Accra, found a large hospital and took Marion in, she can't even walk. Made lunch outside the hospital grounds, did not put much effort into it. The test results confirmed that Marion has got typhoid and needs to get to a better equipped hospital. Had to miss the Danish fort as we drove balls out for Accra. Got there in the dark and dropped Marion and Kenny off at the hospital, some of the Danes left the truck for a night in a hotel. Made egg fried rice for tea next to two Economic trucks in a camp site on the coast. Had a beer with Charlie and Julia on the hotel patio before crashing out on the truck.
Trek Through Africa: IVORY COAST (Day 71-75)
Day 71 : Monday 1st Feb - Abidjan
All into town to get the Zaire visa, had to leave our passports with the paranoid bastards, costing ?50, most expensive visa anywhere. Found a Barclays bank to use my visa card, only managed to get ?100 after 3/4 hour, but could do with a bit more, these visas are costing much more than expected. Went to a supermarché then back to guard the truck with Charlie and Lars, driving around for this and that, to airport collect truck parts that Exodus have sent out. This country has much more money than all the other countries in Africa visited so far, city is very impressive. Patrick found a shed of a cafe where they all had lunch I stayed on the truck. Hit my head on Claire?s umbrella in the nets, snapped it in half after in a temper. On the way back, Patrick told them that they had just eaten rat stew, could not stop laughing at their faces. Back in town Canadian Mark told me of a bank giving out CFA, legged it round there and managed to get 100,000 CFA in 10 mins, well pleased. Posted two letters home. Still feel unwell but decided to go out for a group meal anyway, all got dressed up and looked really different, meal was not that good, they ran out of meat and veg. ended up with a plate of chips. Julia got drunk, slept on the truck with her and Niels, late to sleep waiting for everyone to come back.
Day 72 : Tuesday 2nd Feb - Abidjan
Into town to get our visas, went to the supermarché again then to the bank for another 100,000 CFA. Can't get my camera fixed, or buy one at a decent price. Walked round with Charlie then on my own, bought a paper then wrote a letter to Daffy. Rang home and spoke to Mum for 5,000 CFA. Got back to camp and had a meal of eggs etc. had a beer, washed some clothes, made a fire and got covered in soot, had to wait ages for a shower. Went a walk with Julia along the shore, sorted all my money out in detail at night.
Day 73 : Wednesday 3rd Feb - Beach, Ivory Coast
Into town for 9.30, then left for the beach, had to wait for a ferry across a lagoon, so we had a beer in a bar there. Drove for about half hour through coconut plantations that went right down to the beach. Found an isolated place where we could make a camp and have a rest for a few days. Put up Mike's tent for him while he was cooking, then mine and Charlie?s. He has got himself dehydrated again and does not feel well. Decided to sleep on the truck with Julia. Blew up my airbed and went swimming, very steep beach with a strong under tow. Took some film of the fishermen bringing their catch in, bought a shark off them for tea, quite nice.
Day 74 : Thursday 4th Feb - Beach, Ivory Coast
Spent all day on the beach, went swimming with the airbed and hyper-extended my back while lying on it. Julia gave me a massage, but the pain won't go away. Got pissed up at night on the beach with the others, slept on the truck again.
Day 75 : Friday 5th Feb - Beach, Ivory Coast
Hot weather again, went for a run along the beach in the morning then sat about reading. Had to go shopping later on for our food group and to get some water. Made a thick minestrone soup for tea, sat on beach at night and slept on the truck.
All into town to get the Zaire visa, had to leave our passports with the paranoid bastards, costing ?50, most expensive visa anywhere. Found a Barclays bank to use my visa card, only managed to get ?100 after 3/4 hour, but could do with a bit more, these visas are costing much more than expected. Went to a supermarché then back to guard the truck with Charlie and Lars, driving around for this and that, to airport collect truck parts that Exodus have sent out. This country has much more money than all the other countries in Africa visited so far, city is very impressive. Patrick found a shed of a cafe where they all had lunch I stayed on the truck. Hit my head on Claire?s umbrella in the nets, snapped it in half after in a temper. On the way back, Patrick told them that they had just eaten rat stew, could not stop laughing at their faces. Back in town Canadian Mark told me of a bank giving out CFA, legged it round there and managed to get 100,000 CFA in 10 mins, well pleased. Posted two letters home. Still feel unwell but decided to go out for a group meal anyway, all got dressed up and looked really different, meal was not that good, they ran out of meat and veg. ended up with a plate of chips. Julia got drunk, slept on the truck with her and Niels, late to sleep waiting for everyone to come back.
Day 72 : Tuesday 2nd Feb - Abidjan
Into town to get our visas, went to the supermarché again then to the bank for another 100,000 CFA. Can't get my camera fixed, or buy one at a decent price. Walked round with Charlie then on my own, bought a paper then wrote a letter to Daffy. Rang home and spoke to Mum for 5,000 CFA. Got back to camp and had a meal of eggs etc. had a beer, washed some clothes, made a fire and got covered in soot, had to wait ages for a shower. Went a walk with Julia along the shore, sorted all my money out in detail at night.
Day 73 : Wednesday 3rd Feb - Beach, Ivory Coast
Into town for 9.30, then left for the beach, had to wait for a ferry across a lagoon, so we had a beer in a bar there. Drove for about half hour through coconut plantations that went right down to the beach. Found an isolated place where we could make a camp and have a rest for a few days. Put up Mike's tent for him while he was cooking, then mine and Charlie?s. He has got himself dehydrated again and does not feel well. Decided to sleep on the truck with Julia. Blew up my airbed and went swimming, very steep beach with a strong under tow. Took some film of the fishermen bringing their catch in, bought a shark off them for tea, quite nice.
Day 74 : Thursday 4th Feb - Beach, Ivory Coast
Spent all day on the beach, went swimming with the airbed and hyper-extended my back while lying on it. Julia gave me a massage, but the pain won't go away. Got pissed up at night on the beach with the others, slept on the truck again.
Day 75 : Friday 5th Feb - Beach, Ivory Coast
Hot weather again, went for a run along the beach in the morning then sat about reading. Had to go shopping later on for our food group and to get some water. Made a thick minestrone soup for tea, sat on beach at night and slept on the truck.
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