Backpacking South America: Peru, Bolivia and Ecuador (Part III)

From: Quito, Ecuador
Posted on: Tuesday, January 11

We have just spent a week in the Amazon Jungle in north eastern Ecuador. Took a long bus trip (8 hrs) to a hot oil town called Lago Agrio near the Colombian border ($3). Trevor was sick and puked at an army checkpoint. On the way we passed the wreck of the previous days bus which was about 100m down a cliff. From Lago Agrio it was a 2 hr drive to the Cuyabeno reserve entrance. Then a 6 hr trip on a motorised canoe to the camp. It took so long because the river was very low and we had to get out and push the canoe over logs and off sandbanks. It was dark by the time we reached camp. It rained very hard that night and the next which was fortunate for us because the river had risen by the time we returned and it only took 2 hrs back.

We slept under mosquito nets which were under a thatch canopy. We went walking in the jungle with rubber boots and a guide showed us all the medicinal plants used by the local Indians. We also visited a Shaman who is a traditional healer and he had a feather through his nose. We saw birds including parrots and toucans and we fished for piranha but didn't catch any. We even swam in the river but they didn't show up. One of the local little boys caught a baby Caiman, the South American version of a crocodile. We didn't see any Anacondas but we did find a nest with the discarded skin of one. Apparently Anacondas are the main danger to humans and they swim in the rivers. The 5 day jungle trip cost $175 each, all inclusive from Lago Agrio. It is also possible to fly from Quito to Lago Agrio for about $55.


From: Quito, Ecuador
Posted on: Friday, January 14

Took a longer than expected bus trip from Quito to Aldea Salamandra, an organic farm with rustic cabanas on a river. We expected the bus to take 2 to 3 hours but it took 4. It dropped us off at the turnoff, 2km before the town of Puerto Quito, in the dark and pouring rain. We couldn't see the sign (later saw it was hidden in the bushes) and thought maybe they'd dropped us off in the middle of nowhere. There were no lights and no moon, so we fumbled around for our torch. Some dogs barking woke a woman in the nearest house and she confirmed that we were in the right place and pointed us in the right direction - a 5 minute walk. We later found out there was also a power failure that night.

When we woke up the next morning we found our cabana was perched in the trees overlooking the river. We enjoyed the peace from the hammocks on our balcony. We went on a excursion which is included in the cost of accommodation ($17 inc. 3 meals), to a 60m high waterfall set in a tropical forest. We swam in the pool beneath it. Today's excursion was to an organic farm where we were shown and tasted many fruits and shown medicinal plants and their uses. We also saw how chocolate is made from the raw cocoa beans to the finished product. It was very delicious with bananas and bread.


From: Quito - Galapagos
Posted on: Wednesday, January 19


Spent 5 days on a small 16 person cruiser on a trip around the Galapagos Islands. We flew to the islands from Quito and boarded our boat, Gaby. We visited Plazas, Santa Fe, Espa񯬡, Floreana and Santa Cruz islands. We saw lots of animals including land and marine iguanas, sea lions, giant tortoises, colourful crabs. We snorkelled everyday and saw sharks, various rays, sea turtles, tropical fish and coral. We also saw lots of different birds including albatross, boobies, flamingos, pelicans, finches etc. The cruise cost $350 each, all inclusive. Entry to the islands is $100 each. Flights are very expensive at $329 each but that is the cheapest way to get there. We booked everything through an agency in Quito.


From: Quito, Ecuador
Posted on: Saturday, January 22

Have changed our air tickets to fly out of Quito on 31/1 instead of Caracas on 2/2. This took quite a bit of running around between Iberia and ticket issuers, USIT, and waiting. Tried to go to Otavalo but the roads were closed and no buses running because of Indian protests against the government. Went 2 hrs south to Latacunga, the only place you could get a bus to, with the intention of continuing on to Chugchilan, a small town in the countryside. However could only get as far as Latacunga as the other roads were also closed.

From Latacunga we spent yesterday in the nearby Cotopaxi Mountain Park. The guide took his 4 children with, so it was a bit of a family outing. We went to some hot springs but there was no water in the bath. The children dammed the stream to make their own small bath. Walked to a lake on the paramo, the high plateau (4000m). It was very cold.

On arriving back in Latacunga last night, we thought that all the protests were over as the military had left. Then we saw on TV that there were big problems in Quito and Quayquil. We weren?t sure what was happening but were told that there were 2 presidents. This morning we learnt the full story that Ecuador has a new president, the ex-Vice President, after the old one was forced to flee by a military coup. Everything is slow today but things seem to be more normal - however still no buses except to Quito. So we had no choice but to come back.


From: Otavalo, Ecuador
Posted on: Wednesday, January 26

Spent the weekend in Quito waiting for the roads to open. Saw the new James Bond movie on Sunday and walked around the huge Park Carolina. Left Quito for Otavalo on Monday morning. Otavalo is famous for its Indians and craft markets. On Tuesday we went to Mojando Lakes 18 km away. We climbed Fuya Fuya mountain (4200m) and walked around the lakes. It was very tranquilo. Today we hired mountain bikes and cycled to a waterfall, Cascadas des Peguche, and around Lago San Pablo, a huge lake nearby. Afterwards we bought some hammocks and souvenirs in the market. Have found an excellent fruit pie shop where we have eaten lunch everyday and also a good Sicilian pizzeria.


From: Quito, Ecuador
Posted on: Monday, January 31

On our last day in Otavalo we went horse riding and it was the best riding we?ve done. We went for 5 hours and cantered at least half the time. The horses were very strong and well rested. The scenery was through haciendas (farmland), over hills and through streams. Cost $15 each. Came back to Quito on Thursday night. The next day we went to Iberia to reconfirm our flights and booked 2 mountain biking day trips with the Biking Dutchman.

On Saturday we went mountain biking in Cotopaxi Park. The Biking Dutchman specialises in downhill routes. We drove to 4500m and free wheeled down to 3100m. It was freezing cold at the top and a little snow. The last section was through pine forest. On Sunday we started at a small town called Nono. It was in the cloud forest on the slopes of Guagua Pichincha, the erupting volcano near Quito. It was still raining since the day before. About half way down our route, we realised the significance of the name Nono. The road was blocked by a landslide. There were a couple of other jeeps who had begun to clear it with picks and axes. Eventually we managed to make a passable track over it. It was touch and go driving over but we made it without toppling over.

We thought it was all behind us until we joined the main road back to Quito and discovered it was blocked by 2 landslides. The cranes clearing it had fallen over, so they had given up on trying to clear it. This gave us 3 choices: a 5 hour round trip via Santo Domingo back to Quito; staying the night there waiting for the road to be cleared; or going back the way we came. We decided on the latter. When we reached the landslide it had started raining again and this time the Landcruiser got stuck on the way over. We tried to push it out but it was stuck solid and rocks started falling on us from above. We felt helpless and waited in the rain.

Luckily 2 vehicles came along and one of them was a Unimog! There were more men so they tried again to push the Landcruiser free but it was hopeless. The Unimog had a winch but it was broken. So the other 4x4 went back down and fetched a small rope. This did the trick - the Unimog managed to pull us free. But we were still on the wrong side of the landslide. The Unimog got over first time and in doing so flattened the tracks. The 4x4 took about 5 goes but eventually also got over. We had no choice but to give it another go. Ari, our guide, put his foot flat and got over first time. We were very relieved and everyone was cheering. We only had to brave the rest of the road back to Quito praying that another landslide wouldn?t happen while we were there.

A woman who we gave a lift to said it was rumoured that all the landslides were caused by an earthquake caused by Pichincha volcano. Today is our last day in South America. We fly back to London via Madrid tonight.


From: Redhill, UK
Posted on: Tuesday, February 01

Arrived back in London this evening. It was dark and raining. We can safely say now that we survived the 3 months without getting mugged or having anything stolen. Sadly our journey has come to an end. Adios, hasta luego.

Backpacking South America: Peru, Bolivia and Ecuador (Part II)

From: Puno, Peru
Posted on: Saturday, November 28

Went from La Paz to Sorata (4 - 5 hours by bus), a village in a valley below the Cordillera Real mountains in Bolivia. Lots of old Spanish colonial buildings with central courtyards built around the town square. There was no Internet access there. Saw a political rally in progress which was very loud and went on all day. We arranged to do the 7 day Illampu Circuit trek at the Sorata Guides Office, in Spanish, for $10 per day for guide and mule. Food is then bought at the market with the guide.

Our guide was Jaime with his mule, Pancho who carried the food, tents and sleeping bags. Jaime cooked for us and we were well fed - porridge for breakfast; bread, cheese, eggs and jam for lunch; soup, pasta/rice/smash with tinned fish for supper and lots of tea. But we had heartburn after 6 days of purifying our drinking water with iodine tablets. The scenery was awesome - we climbed 5 passes over 4600m and the highest was 5045m. Glacial peaks towered above us - the highest (Illampu) at 6300m. It was good that we had Jaime as on the 5th day the local farmers were not very friendly and wanted money ($50) from us but Jaime talked them out of it. One night it was so cold that our tent zip froze solid and we had to wait till sunrise before we could get out.

After a days rest and doing laundry in Sorata, we caught a combination of three buses from Sorata to Puno which took basically the whole day. In the one bus we both sat in front - Jacqui was perched on a child seat you wouldn?t even know existed between the driver and window and Trevor was on a wooden stool on the other side. Staying in a swish hotel, Manco Capac, in Puno for only $10. Its a new hotel and a special price for us - a promotion, but we musn?t tell anyone. The usual price is $20. En suite bathroom and very clean. Today we went by boat to the floating reed islands of Uros on the lake. Over 400 families live on these islands which are made of woven reeds. The newer ones feel bouncy when you walk on them.


From: Cusco, Peru
Posted on: Sunday, December 05

Caught the train from Puno to Cusco. It took 12 hours during the day and the scenery was good. Cost $19 each which is quite expensive for here but the train is much more comfortable than the bus although a bit slower. Spent a day in Cusco and caught another train to km88 to start the Inca trail the next day. The train left at 7am and took 3 hours to km88.


The Inca Trail took 4 days - climbing 3 passes, the highest being 4200m. The first 2 days are more strenuous and longer than the last 2. We saw some impressive Inca ruins on the way and walked through subtropical jungle along the Inca path which has many steps. On the last day we woke up at 4am to walk to the Sun Gate which overlooks the ruined city of Machu Picchu. The idea is to be there at sunrise but it was overcast and misty. It was still special as we got glimpses of Machu Picchu through the mist.

Spent the morning exploring the ruins which are very well preserved and then walked down to the town of Aguas Calientes where we had lunch and a soak in the hot springs before catching the 4.30pm train back to Cusco. It was a scrum just to get on the train and then it was very full for the first hour before many people got off. Trevor had a hot sweaty little boy sleeping with his head on his leg. The rest of the way we were entertained by children playing the panpipes and drums and tourists pulling faces at children.


From: Vilcabamba, Ecuador
Posted on: Thursday, December 16

Flew Cusco - Lima ($59), Lima - Tumbes ($89) on 7/12. Tumbes airport plagued by mosquitos and we got very bitten. Crossed the border to Ecuador at Huaquillas where we were confronted with fraudsters and conmen who wanted to change money at a tenth of the rate using rigged calculators. $1 = 17100 Sucres and they thought we may not notice the missing zero.

Caught bus to Loja ($2,30) in Ecuador?s Southern Sierra and stayed the night there before continuing to Vilcabamba. We are staying at Madre Tierra Health Spa 2 kms from town. Idyllic setting on lush hillside overlooking valley. Lots of trees, colourful birds and hammocks to relax in, as well as a pool and bar. Accommodation in private cabins including delicious breakfasts and dinner, as much as you can eat, $11 each for everything. Jax had spa treatment - jacuzzi, body rub and facial (about $12).

Dragged ourselves away from Madre Tierra for 3 days to do a horse trekking trip to the nearby Podocarpus National Park - $75 each, all inclusive. Rode up the mountain to a refuge on day 1 and walked to nearby waterfalls. On day 2 walked through thick cloud forest, in the rain and mud, to a lake. Dried our clothes by the fire that night. On day 3 rode back down to Vilcabamba. The trail had deteriorated with the rain and we had to get off and walk in places, especially after Jax?s horse slipped and fell with her on it. We also hired bicycles for a couple of hours and explored the back roads of the area.


From: Riobamba, Ecuador
Posted on: Saturday, December 25

Left Vilcabamba 17/12. Caught a lift with Jaime, the owner, to Loja and from there caught the bus to Cuenca - 6hrs. Spent a few days in Cuenca. Went to some hot springs and saw some Christmas parades. Also went to Ingapirca Inca ruins for the day and did some walking. Tried to go to Cajas National Park but the once-a-day, 6am bus didn?t arrive.

Left Cuenca on 21/12 on another 6hr (200km) bus trip to Riobamba in an air-conditioned bus without air conditioning. All we saw was clouds. The road was a branch of the Pan America Highway! The first night in Riobamba we stayed in a terribly depressing hotel called Hostal Segovia ($4 p/rm) - dirty and run by an old hag. Moved very quickly the next morning to Hotel Montecarlo ($8 p/rm) inc. en-suite bathroom and TV. Saw amazing and colourful Christmas parades on 23 and 24/12 - much better than Cuenca. Children dressed up in different costumes doing line dancing behind trucks playing loud music. The themes range from animals to traditional dress and religious. The one was so big we watched for over an hour as it went past.

Went cycling on Christmas Eve to some thermal springs in the surrounding foothills. Over 60km half on tar and half on dirt. Fantastic views of Chimboraza, the highest mountain in Ecuador (6300m) and the smoking volcano. Bathed in the very hot springs which have not finished being built yet. We hired bikes and guide from ProBici, run by a guy who is mountain biking mad and speaks perfect English. It is not his main business but a sideline. Really good quality bicycles - Cannondales, Trek, GT, Klein, Centurion with top of the range components. Had Christmas dinner that night at the hotel restaurant. Had tomales (corn dumplings wrapped in banana leaves), consommé, stuffed turkey with roast potatoes, vegetables, rice and salad, pastry in honey for dessert. Could choose between white wine and champagne. We tried the champagne which was unlike any champagne we?ve ever had - it was not bubbly and tasted more like a dessert wine.

Went Christmas shopping in the traditional markets on Christmas day. Even though it is a holiday, Saturday is still market day and the Indians come from the surrounding countryside to trade. We bought some wall hangings and weavings. Saw cooked pigs heads, racks of ribs getting chopped up by axes, live and dead chickens, live guinea pigs ready to cook, lots of fruit and vegetables. Also tried on a poncho and almost bought a hammock. The Internet cafe is very busy today - lots of people using NetPhone. Thank you for all the Christmas messages - its good to hear from everyone on Christmas day.


From: Riobamba - train ride
Posted on: Friday, December 31

Did the famous 'Nariz del Diablo' rooftop train ride on boxing day. Woke up at 5am (as per the guidebooks suggestion) to buy tickets at 5.30 but ended up waiting till 6.30 before we could buy them. The train was supposed to leave at 7am but the driver never arrived because he was drunk from Christmas festivities. A replacement driver was found but we only left at about 8.30. The 'train' was actually a bus with train wheels and the best views are from the roof rack. We climbed on top after the first stop - it was too cold from the beginning. The train used to go all the way to the coast from Quito but now it only goes from Riobamba to Alausi and then to the Devils Nose and back. This is the most scenic section and the tracks do a couple of switchbacks. However we didn't think it was as exciting as everyone made it out to be. It was expensive too at $15 each.

The next day we went to a nearby carpet weaving town called Guano to go swimming in the first 25m pool we have come across so far. It was filled with spring water and was very cold. We didn't last too long in the water. We have just returned from a 3 day trekking/climbing trip to Carihuairazo mountain (5020m). It is an extinct volcano and lies next to Ecuador's highest mountain, Chimborazo (6300m). We had excellent views of Chimborazo and on the second day walked up to the glacier for acclimatisation. Today we started walking at 4.30am to climb Carihuairazo using crampons and ice axes. We did the trip through Julio Verne - there are pictures on their web site.


From: Quito, Ecuador
Posted on: Saturday, January 01, 2000

Well - the Internet still seems to be working! Spent New Year in Quito. Arrived yesterday afternoon and the streets were packed with people already. They have all these stuffed 'puppets' which represent all the bad things of the past year and they burn them on Old Years Eve. There were also lots of street venders and games and everyone wears masks. On the bus trip from Riobamba to Quito we went through 'road blocks' set up by young guys dressed in drag. It was pretty weird because at about 11pm the party ended - apparently everyone goes home to see the New Year in. So only the Gringos were left in the centre.


From: Quito, Ecuador
Posted on: Saturday, January 01

Well - the Internet still seems to be working! Spent New Year in Quito. Arrived yesterday afternoon and the streets were packed with people already. They have all these stuffed 'puppets' which represent all the bad things of the past year and they burn them on Old Years Eve. There were also lots of street venders and games and everyone wears masks. On the bus trip from Riobamba to Quito we went through 'road blocks' set up by young guys dressed in drag. It was pretty weird because at about 11pm the party ended - apparently everyone goes home to see the New Year in. So only the Gringos were left in the centre.

Backpacking South America: Peru, Bolivia and Ecuador (Part I)

From: At home, Redhill, Surrey, UK
Posted on: Wednesday, September 15

Excitement is building - only 1 month to go. Our tickets arrived today. We still have some preparation to do - we have to get Venezuelan visas and malaria tablets. We haven't decided which sleeping bags to take or whether we need to buy more, nor whether to buy the latest South American handbook or use the 1996 edition lent to us by Richard and Lisa. We met Dave's friend, Paddy, who recommended not using the Lonely Planet, as it leads you to all the tourist traps. He promised to give us some tips which he learned on his recent trip to South America. The Spanish lessons have started but are progressing slowly. Thank you, Paul and Wendy for the LOAN of the 'Learn to Speak Spanish' CD ROM. It's really cool. We speak into the mic and it tells us if we're we're wrong or right. Adios.


From: Cape Town, South Africa
Posted on: Thursday, October 28

Have spent 2 weeks visiting our families and friends in our home town, Cape Town in South Africa, enjoying the sunshine and of course the good ol' Cape Doctor (i.e. the SE wind for non-Capetonians). We spent 3 days in the Cederberg Mountains, visited Robben Island and saw Mandela's cell, climbed Devil's Peak and narrowly escaped being bitten by 2 puffadders, did the wine route and sampled Cape cuisine which seems very cheap after London.


From: Lima, Peru
Posted on: Thursday, November 04

After our short holiday in Cape Town, we flew back to London and then flew to Lima in Peru to start our South American adventure. We arrived last night and are staying at Mochilero's Backpackers ($25 p/rm) in Baranca, a seaside suburb of Lima. The hostel looks very palatial from the outside and the public areas but our room is quite drab and smelt musty although it is clean. Lima is big and busy, very polluted. Taxis everywhere, not as cheap as we expected. Went to the South American Explorers Club to get maps - discovered that they now have a club house in Cusco too so there really is no need to hang around Lima. We are flying to Arequipa tomorrow.


From: Arequipa, Peru
Posted on: Wednesday, November 10


Spent 3 days in the Colca Canyon which is a day's drive from Arequipa. Took a 'tour' on the way there, and went over a pass of 4800m in the bus - we didn't feel too well with headaches and nausea. Stayed in a village called Chivay at the entrance to the canyon, swam in hot springs and were entertained by folk musicians like on Leicester Sq. Woke up early next day to go and see Condors further up the valley. Tour cost $21 each for 2 days inc. transport there and back and to Condor viewpoint, smart accommodation with breakfast in Chivay, folk music evening. Other meals excluded but cheap @ $3 for 3 course meal. Entrance to hotsprings $1. We didn't go back with the tour but instead walked to the furthest village, Cabanaconde, and walked down the canyon to an oasis where we could swim. Camped there for one night ($1 each) and hiked to the villages of Malata and Cos񩲨ua overlooking the canyon on the other side - good views into the canyon. That evening we walked back up the canyon and spent the night in Cabanaconde at Valle del Fuego hostal, a characterful little shack - $6 p/rm, dinner $1.50, breakfast $1. Took the local bus back to Arequipa the next day ($4 each) - dirt road the whole way. Didn?t feel sick over the pass.
Staying at Hostal Posada de Sancho in Arequipa - not cheap but very nice @ $14 p/rm.


From: La Paz, Bolivia
Posted on: Monday, November 15

Caught the overnight train ($8.50 each) from Arequipa to Puno on the banks of Lake Titicaca (3800m) but still in Peru. It took 13 hours and got very cold during the night. Altitude was 4600m but we felt fine. Crossed the border to Copacabana on the Bolivian side. Saw trucks being blessed and pilgrims using model cars, houses and other material things as symbols of what they are praying for. Paid $3-4 p/rm. Met 2 South Africans who were impressed at how far their Rands were going. 3 course meals for $2. The women wear big bright skirts and small bowler hats and have long plaited hair.

Took a boat to the Isla del Sol on Lake Titicaca, just off the Copacabana and spent 2 nights camping there for free. Walked the whole island and witnessed a local festival with bands and people dressed in bread rolls! Apparently it was the end of the school term. Met quite a few English speaking travellers and picked up some good tips from them. Buying food was difficult as there seemed to be a shortage. Tried to swim in the lake but it was not very warm. It is crystal clear and a deep blue.

Took a bus from Copacabana to La Paz ($2 each) - the city is quite something to see, as it is in a basin surrounded by snow capped peaks. There is a demonstration going on outside. Peasants are protesting for right to grow cocoa. Since being in Bolivia we have had some short bursts of heavy rain and thunder and lightening. There are loads of Internet cafes here and they are full. Accommodation in Hotel Alem is $8 for a room. Had a vegetarian lunch at a Hare Krishna restaurant. We have been eating well e.g. good fish (trout) from Lake Titicaca, normally served with rice and chips.


From: La Paz, Bolivia
Posted on: Wednesday, November 17

Today we climbed a mountain near La Paz called Chacaltaya which was 5600m. It has a glacier which has the worlds highest ski lift (5400m) which is not working at the moment - this means walking to the top of the ski slope! The climb to the peak wasn?t difficult - basically just a walk to the top - but the altitude is the problem and it affected Trevor. It was snowing at the top. At the refuge there was a cute baby llama which belonged to the caretaker. It was fluffy and warm when you put your hand under it?s fur and very affectionate too. It drank milk from a babybottle. We also saw lots of big llamas on the way there and back. We got transport through the Club Andino Boliviana for $10 each.

The Wilds of the Galápagos

Made famous by Charles Darwin in 1835 and more recently by Russell Crowe in Master and Commander, the Galapagos really are every bit the evolutionary marvel. Largely unchanged over millions of years, it is possible to get a truly prehistoric experience amongst the unique and incredibly rare animals of the Galapagos Islands.

Rescued from plunder in 1959, the islands were declared a national park by the Ecuadorian Government. But the road to recovery has been anything but smooth. Local fishermen still work the waters and a recent oil spill highlighted the extremely delicate environment in which these special creatures exist.

Tourists to the Galapagos arrive by air from the port city of Guayaquil, Ecuador and are ferried immediately to their waiting charter boat. The best choice is to embark on an expedition tour itinerary of about a week, which will visit most of the major islands and a few of the smaller ones. Shorter 4 or 5 day cruises are also available. There is ample time to see every major species of animal that is there before you in abundance. Vessels range in size from around a dozen to over one hundred passengers.

Sea Lions cavort in the shallows with you while gnarly frigate birds wheel overhead in search or morsels to plunder. All around, nesting boobys squeal, honk and trumpet as they go about their bizarre mating rituals.

Devilish marine iguanas congregate in packs at the waters edge, soaking heat from the black lava and occasionally spraying their neighbours with salt spray from their nostrils. Fiercely territorial, the lone land iguanas patrol the nearby undergrowth in search of interlopers. Their dramatic clashes reminiscent of classic Godzilla bouts!

The giant tortoises are much harder to find in the wild, so a visit to the Charles Darwin Research Station is a mandatory inclusion on any itinerary. Here visitors can get truly up-close-and-personal with these 200kg centenarians as well as see the world’s rarest animal – the only Pinta Island Tortoise in existence, fondly known as Lonesome George.