HISTORY OF REBELLION
Ten million of Mexico's 93 million people are indigenous from the following groups: Tzeltales, Tzotziles, Choles, Lacandones, Tzoques, Tojolabales, Mames, Chujes, Cackchiquéles, and Mochos. Ninety percent of the other 83 million are of mixed descent.
Chiapas produces coffee, corn, cocoa, cattle-ranching, hydroelectric power, and timber harvested from the Lacandona rainforest. Chiapas has some of the richest natural resources, including oil reserves, in Mexico - which explains the government's stronghold, as well as the role of the United States. Hydroelectric plants in Chiapas generate 60% of the country's hydroelectric energy. Although the state has an abundance of natural resources, the level of poverty and lack of a basic standard of living among the indigenous groups is abysmal.
The indigenous people of Mexico have struggled against racism for centuries. Up until 1974, the Chiapas state constitution stated that all Indians had to dress in their native costumes and that if a Mexican of mixed blood or Spanish descent passed by on the sidewalk, the Indian had to walk in the street.
During the last 70 years or so, the highly-corrupted Partido Revolucionario Institucional (PRI) has dominated the political structure. The PRI has made rich land owners richer and the people that work the land poorer.
In 1890 approximately 50,000 hectares were ruled by just 6 haciendas, which was one factor that led to the 1910 Mexican Revolution, led by Emiliano Zapata (1879-1919). The revolution was victorious in securing land reforms which protected communal land holdings from privatization. However, President Salinas pushed through an amendment that repealed the protection of land holdings after the institution of NAFTA on January 1, 1994. This, in effect, ended any hopes landless peasants had of owning their own farms.
Not coincidentally, also on January 1, 1994 an organization of indigenous peasants from the state of Chiapas in southern Mexico came into the world's view when they took over five towns, including San Cristobal de Las Casas. The Zapata, Marcos, Che Mural at Aguascalientes IVEjercito Zapatista de Liberación Nacional (EZLN), referred to as the Zapatistas, called for changes in the Mexican economy and political structure which would guarantee increased democracy and self-determination for the Mexican people - particularly indigenous groups.
Six months before January 1, 1994, undercover Zapatistas joined the Mexican army. On New Year's Eve, undercover Zapatistas told real soldiers to take the night off and spend it with their families. When the Zapatistas arrived in San Cristobal for the uprising, the undercover Zapatistas took off their Mexican Army uniforms and changed into their real Zapatista uniforms.
Since then, the charismatic spokesman, Subcommander Marcos, has manipulated mass media and charmed onlookers with his eloquence. During negotiations with the Mexican government to change the Mexican constitution, the Zapatistas worked with the National Indigenous Congress (made up of delegates of 56 groups) and CONAI (the National Intermediation Commission) headed by Bishop Samuel Ruiz of San Cristobal. However, presently the negotiations have stalled and Bishop Ruiz is set to retire this fall.
The Zapatistas focused criticism on the current globalization of economics experienced in many countries. The Zapatistas have explained that their struggle is for the following eleven points:
* Work
* Land
* Housing
* Food
* Health Care
* Education
* Independence
* Liberty
* Democracy
* Justice
* Peace
Additionally, in the national and international plebiscite called by the EZLN last year (1.2 million voters), five new points were added including: culture, information, security, combating corruption, and protection of the environment.
In January, 1995, Chase Manhattan sent a memo stating that the Mexican "government will need to eliminate the Zapatistas to demonstrate their effective control of the national territory and of security policy."
On December 22, 1997, armed supporters of the PRI massacred 45 unarmed indigenous persons who had sought refuge from earlier violence in Acteal in the county of Chenalho in the Chiapas highlands. The victims were Zapatista supporters or members of the peasant organization, Sociedad Civil Las Abejas, a group with politics similar to the Zapatistas but which does not support armed struggle. They were attending Mass in the Catholic church when the shooting started by 60 heavily armed men. The attackers were armed with AK-47 and M-16 rifles and expanding hollow-tip bullets (weapons which could only have been obtained from military or police). The massacre lasted five hours, during which time the police stood by and refused to intervene. The Mexican Red Cross reported 45 deaths, including 9 men, 21 women, 14 children, and one baby. The Mexican government reacted immediately, not by sending needed supplies and medical help to survivors, but by sending an additional 5,000 troops to Chiapas.
On January 12, 1997, state police in Ocosingo opened fire on rock-throwing demonstrators protesting the massacre. An indigenous woman was killed, and her three-year-old daughter and a young man were wounded. The police refused to transport her to the nearest hospital. Although there was a video showing at least three police officers shooting at the demonstrators, by June all but one of the accused had been released. The final accused officer was only charged with malicious wounding.
Since the uprising, Mexico has deported more than two hundred foreigners, and "requested" the departure of others. Those expelled have included journalists, human rights workers, foreign Catholic priests, and students.
SAN CRISTOBAL DE LAS CASAS
San Cristobal is about 2 1/2 hours from the airport in Tuxla Gutierrez. Taxis cost about $35 - so find other tourists to share the ride. It's an old colonial-style city with buildings painted pastel yellow, orange, blue, and purple.
I HIGHLY recommend staying at the El Cerrillo Hotel on B. Dominguez. Costs start at 15,000 pesos - though our group got a deal for 10,000 per person.
Everyday, there are craft booths set up surrounding Convento de Santo Domingo and Iglesia Santo Domingo. I got better deals on Zapatista dolls here, than in the main plaza. Plaza 31 de Marzo has a two-story kiosk in the middle which serves drinks and snacks. Around the plaza, you will find a bank with ATM, money exchange, a pharmacy, and a number of tourist shops. There are several internet cafes in San Cristobal. Two of them are on Real de Guadalupe, one block east of Plaza 31 de Marzo.
There are plenty of delicious restaurants to try - and even a number of (ugh) vegetarian restaurants. La Parilla (Belisario Dominguez 32) is a good place for meat-lovers with yummy grilled steaks and chicken. My favorite restaurant was a block from El Cerrillo Hotel at the end of Belisario Dominguez - called Casa de Pan. Even though it was a vegetarian restaurant, it was delicious! It had a great bakery in the front and a small crafts store. Many nights were open mic nights - where you could hear local musicians.
Colectivo de Mujeres (COLEM) is a non-profit organization serving indigenous women in Chiapas. "COLEM" means free or unfettered in indigenous languages. The organization assists victims of sexual and domestic violence, gives free legal advice, and informs of health and reproductive rights. May 10th was their 10 year anniversary.
Women in indigenous Chiapas have only a 50 year life expectancy and have extremely high rates of death during childbirth. There are 1600 indigenous communities in Chiapas with less than 200 residents. Of these, 70% cook over an open fire, 70% don't have drinking water, 65% have no electricity, and almost all have no access to health care. 50% of residents are illiterate and of those 50%, 90% of them are women.
Women spend a lot of physical energy cooking, grinding tortillas, washing, and getting water. Water buckets weigh 44 pounds and women must carry 2 buckets, 6 times per day for daily living. Women are sexually active by age 12 and by the age of 25, most women have had 5 births. Many of the children are not registered because parents are illiterate and can not complete forms. Of the 4 million indigenous residents in Chiapas, less than 1% are professional women. There has never been an indigenous woman enrolled in law school.
There are only 27 school houses in indigenous Chiapas - with enrollments at less than 100 but some as little as 20. Most of the school children are boys. There are 200 bilingual schools in Chiapas but the education level is very low and schools are almost impossible to get to from isolated communities.
After the 1994 uprising, rape incidents have risen dramatically due to military presence. Before 1994, only 8-10% of the rapes were committed by strangers. After 1994, this increased by 300% as rapes were (and are) being committed by military, police, and paramilitaries. Victims are adult women involved in the conflict. Many nurses have been raped which stopped the vaccination program (the program is now administered by the military). In addition, women are hired as prostitutes by the military - which is often the only source of income they have for their families.
An educated indigenous woman is considered a Zapatista, even if she is not.
AGUASCALIENTES
There are 5 Aguascalientes in Chiapas including: Morelia, Roberto Barrios, La Garrucha, Oventic, and La Realidad. The Aguascalientes were set up as regional community centers in the Zapatista Autonomous Regions.
I stayed at 2 of the 5 Aguascalientes in Morelia and La Garrucha.
MORELIA
Aguascalientes IV is in the canyon of Altamirano and the rebellious communities of 17 de Noviembre and Cabins. It has a kitchen, dormitories, an auditorium, a basketball court, a soccer field, and corn fields. Residents from about 35 communities travel from their isolated villages to the Aguascalientes for various workshops. Foreigners are also able to stay at the Aguascalientes.
Morelia has suffered at the hands of the military. On January 7, 1994, 3 Morelia men were murdered and a number of women were raped by the military.
LA GARRUCHA
This Aguascalientes includes the rebellious areas of Francisco Gomez, Magon Flowers, San Manuel, San Aguascalientes, La GarruchaSalvador, Ernesto Che Guevara, 1 de Enero, and Mayan.
There are also dormitories, an auditorium, and a basketball court. Additionally, this Aguascalientes has 3 stores which sell snacks, drinks, and household goods. Two military bases sandwhich this center, and you must pass a military checkpoint on the way.
This Aguascalientes serves about 75 communities. There are 4 men and 2 women volunteers who have been elected to the Autonomous Council of Francisco Gomez. They have no contact with the existing Mexican government structures. There is no president, all decisions must be agreed upon by the 6 authorities. The authorities are voted in by the General Assembly, which has a representative from each community.
SAN JUAN CHAMULA & ZINACANTAN
San Juan Chamula
San Juan Chamula, a Tzotzil-speaking community, is the largest Maya township of Chiapas with a population of over 40,000.
Chamula is inhabited by the Tzotziles who speak Tzotzil, a language of the Maya family. The main agricultural products include corn, beans, potatoes, and cabbage.
Religion is a mixture of Catholism and native Tzotzil. They believe that the world is a cube supported by 4 columns and surrounded by water. Gods are considered as inhabitants of the moon, heaven, and mother sun.
The main tourist draw here is the church, St. John the Baptist which is disconnected from the Diocese because residents don't want priests in the church. Inside you'll find a thick layer of incense in the air, fresh pine needles on the floor, and hundreds of lit candles stuck to the floor. Catholic Saint statues are in glass cases along the sides of the church, and residents are scattered about chanting and performing various types of rituals.
Zinacantan
Zinacantan is known for its hothouse flowers - which are sold and used in their own celebrations.
For centuries, the Tzotzil's of Zinacantan have controlled the only source of salt in the Chiapas Highlands. Before the Spanish Conquest, the merchants traded the salt for amber, cacao, and quetzal feathers from the Chiapas lowlands.
Zinacantan weavers are known for their use of bright reds, pinks, purples, and blues. Most of the weavings are done by the women with waist-looms (as seen pictured below left).
The Tzotzil language (spoken in Zinacantan, San Juan Chamula, and other communities) is very different from Spanish. Here are some vocabulary examples:
* k'ok' - fire
* chuch' - drink
* chib - two
* tok - cloud
* vak - six
* vo` - water
* te` - tree
* me` - mother
* li` - here
* te - there
MILITARY PRESENCE
Chiapas is now a militarized state with military camps, frequent roadblocks, and daily aerial surveillance.
The Mexican army has set up military camps within immediate striking distance of 80% of the Zapatista communities, aerial surveillance has been increasing weekly, and the number of PRI paramilitaries have increased.
Currently, more than 40% of the Mexican military occupies Chiapas.
Amnesty International and other human rights groups have reported illegal searches and daily acts of aggression in various indigenous communities - especially La Realidad and Morelia.
The presence of U.S. military aid is apparent as the Mexican army uses humvees, armored personnel carriers, and Blackhawk helicopters, to carry out harassment.
Additionally, military personnel are being trained at the School of the Assassins (the notorious School of the Americas).
TONINA RUINS
The Tonina Ruins are about 12 miles down a dirt road from the city of Ocosingo and are said to be the last capital of the Maya empire. Tonina consists of an artificial mountain of seven platforms on a calcareous hill that overlooks the valley.
On the sixth platform is a cool mural of the four suns, where the suns of each cycle are represented by human heads that are falling. These ruins are much less visited than the larger Palenque ruins and on many days, you may be the only one visiting the ruins.
MEXICO CITY
Historic Downtown
I stayed at the Hotel Majestic in Mexico City's Historic Downtown. The rooms were probably really nice about 20 years ago but I had a great view of the Zocalo, Cathedral, and Presidential Palace. Although, beware of the "taking down the flag" ceremony at 6am.
There are tons of things to see in this district of Mexico City. If you aren't staying in this area, take the blue-line subway to the Zocalo station.
The Zocalo is the 2nd largest public plaza in the world (the 1st is the Red Square in Moscow) and is marked by the huge Mexican flag in its center. There are protests here almost every day, as the Presidential Palace lines one side of the plaza, and a number of "taking down the flag" and "putting up the flag" ceremonies.
There are also cool EZLN, PRD, and Communist booths in the plaza selling Che books and pictures of Marcos. While I was buying a few Zapatista pictures and pins, a policeman pushed me and told me to go away. I went away AFTER I bought my things. The guys working the booth said that police often hassle them.
The Catedral Metropolitan was completed in 1813 and is the largest colonial cathedral in the Americas. There are 14 chapels, a number of side altars, and 5 naves. However, this massive cathedral is sinking into the soft soil beneath it and is filled with scaffoldings.
The Templo Mayor de Tenochtitlan is behind the cathedral and was once the holiest shrine in Tenochtitlan. The site was rediscovered in 1978 during subway excavations, and now houses a museum. Cost is $25 pesos (about $2.50).
The Palacio de Bellas Artes is in La Alameda park a few blocks from the Zocalo (from subway get off at Belles Artes blue line station). While I was there, there was an Andy Warhol exhibit (which was cool if you like him). There is also huge Diego Rivera mural in the Mezzanine.
Chapultepec Park
Bosque de Chapultepec has lakes, the castle, the zoo, museums, and carnival-like food and toy booths.
The Chapultepec Castle was the home of the Emperor Maximilian of Hapsburg. The Emperor was overthrown by Benito Juarez - making the castle the presidential residence until the 1930s. The castle was made into a museum in 1940.
The Museo Nacional de Antropologia houses treasures from the pre-Cortesian civilizations. It's supposed to be an outstanding museum - though I didn't get to it this trip.
Zona Rosa
Also known as the Pink Zone, this area is touristy and yuppie-filled. Here you will find internet cafes, malls, American fast-food chains, a movie theater, hotels, banks, airline offices, nightclubs, and tourist shops.
I have to admit that after too many beans and tortillas, a friend and I went to Burger King for Whoppers. Such a shame eating at BK in Mexico, I know, but mmmmm those burgers and fries tasted delicious!
Go to Calles Copenhagen and Genova to browse up and down pedestrian-only streets. At the end of Genova, is the Insurgentes subway station.
Coyoacan
Coyoacan is an affluent suburb of Mexico City with museums, cafes, and plazas.
I visited the Frida Kahlo Museum (Calle Londres 247), which is located in the house that she shared with Diego Rivera for many years. In addition to Frida's work, the museum also has pieces from Rivera, Paul Klee, and Jose Orozco.
Showing posts with label Mexico. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Mexico. Show all posts
Sunday, June 22, 2008
Voyage To Turquoise Waters of Half Moon Bay, Akumal (Day 14-16)
Chichen Itza, 12/14 Monday
Karen was up at the crack of dawn for a solo bird walk. Within minutes she excitedly returned describing the colorful plumage's she had seen. She convinced me to get up, and we walked about the beautiful grounds watching the birds begin their day in the cool morning air. We all assembled again for breakfast at 7:00 AM. From the verandah we continued our bird watch as a group. We saw red-striped woodpeckers, turquoise winged blackbirds and bright red, yellow and orange birds as we enjoyed our breakfasts.
After breakfast, we made our way to the "entrada" for our big day of touring Chichen Itza. We paid our entrance fee of 50 pesos each, and hired a guide for $30 US, so that we could hear the rich details associated with the groups of ruins. We then toured in depth the same structures we had seen the day before. In addition, we explored the "Observatory" and the "Nunnery". The guided part of the tour took about two hours, after which we informally explored some of the structures in more depth. We climbed the "Observatory" and examined the "Pyramid of the High Priests". At that point, it was noon, and we split up to pursue separate adventures. Karen and I went to the main entrance where we ate lunch, drank a delicious pineapple-fruit drink and briefly shopped the "tiendas" before returning to the ruins for more extensive touring. We spent two more hours examining the "Platforn of Skulls", "Platform of Eagles and Jaguars", "Temple of Warriors", "Mercado" and "Group of 1000 Columns". By that time we had been walking for 5 hours, and we decided that Chichen Itza had been "toured".
We returned to find the Orr family relaxing by the hotel swimming pool. We drank a cervaza with them and then returned to our hotel room for some rest. Soon, the Fousts dropped by our room, and we shared stories of the day's adventures. That afternoon, we all shared one last wonderful meal at the Hotel Hacienda Chichen, and then met briefly in the hotel lobby to discuss airport pick-up procedures in Portland, with the realization that our tropical fantasy was quickly coming to and end. We went to bed early in preparation for the marathon travel day coming the next day.
Long Journey Home, 12/15 Tuesday
I awoke at 5:00 AM, unable to sleep any longer in anticipation of the drive to Cancun. By the time I had shaved, showered and dressed, Karen and the Fousts were stirring in preparation also. Since the Orrs were taking a later flight, they were still in bed. Karen had spent a restless night with a strong touch of the "tourista", but she had recovered enough by morning to be able to travel. Part of her uneasiness was no doubt caused by the fact that we had killed a black spider as big around as a 50-cent piece in our shower!
We packed our many "maletas" into our red rental car and said goodbye to our waiter who was seeing us off at 6:45 AM. We found that the waiters at the Hotel Hacienda Chichen were always ready to serve at any time, day or night. Outstanding service was a trademark of the hotel. As a matter of fact, we received excellent service wherever we traveled in Mexico. After leaving the hotel, we drove through the tourist town of Piste, located adjacent to the ruins, and reached the entrance of the "Autopista", a world-class freeway with exorbitant tolls. The entrance was located 2 kilometers west of Piste, and it offered a chance to drive to Cancun "muy rapido". We paid our first toll of 31 pesos, Mexican money only, and proceeded north towards Cancun, traveling about 120 kilometers ,or 75 miles per hour. At that speed, the distance evaporated quickly, and soon we were at the border between the states of Yucatan and Quintana Roo. There we paid a final toll of 105 pesos. Our total toll was 136 pesos, or about $13.60 US. We avoided a higher toll by getting off the freeway before Cancun, and taking a spur road to the airport. This spur road took us to Highway 307, the Cancun-Tulum corridor. There we turned north, driving about 2 kilometers past the airport turnoff so that we could fill our gas tank at a Pemex station. It was 8:45 AM, when we finished filling our tank and drove back to the airport. We got our suitcases out of the car and put them on the curb and then I drove the car back to the Budget lot. The young "inspector" found nothing wrong with the car, and made no attempt to assess fees for damages as is often done in Mexico. In the office, the clerk filled out the paperwork and tried to convince Tom and I that the Chiapas was a good area to visit. We told him that we loved Mexico, but would probably avoid the Chiapas. All in all, our rental car performed remarkably well on the inconsistent Mexican roads. Budget has provided good service at an excellent cost both times we have been in Mexico. The final bill for our rental car this trip was $370 US, not bad for two weeks!
We returned to the airport and found that we had to pack our bags around some airport construction. We still managed to find our way to the Mexicana check in desk where we checked our bags all the way to Portland. After checking our bags, we had breakfast in the airport, then made our way through security. I found once again that my boots with their metal eyes set off the alarms. We had about an hour to wait for our 11:40 AM flight, and we spotted the Orrs arriving for their flight while we were waiting for ours. The time passed quickly and soon we were boarding Flight #342 to fly the 800 miles to Mexico City, the first leg of our long journey.
It took about two hours and fifteen minutes to get to Mexico City with Mexicana once again providing an excellent service of lunch and drinks. Just before Mexico city, we spotted the awesome smoking volcano, Pococatepetl, seemingly poised for a major eruption at any moment. As we descended into Mexico City, the intense smog that characterizes this world metropolis was strongly evident. When we landed, we all had some difficulty breathing the polluted air. We spent three and a half hours in the Mexico City airport cruising the duty-free shops, spending our last pesos and relaxing while we waited for our connecting Flight #908 scheduled to leave at 5:30 PM. While we were waiting, we camped out at Gate 19, the Mexicana center. At about 4:30, an announcement in Spanish advised passengers to move to Gate 18 if they were on Flight #908. Fortunately some of us understood Spanish! At 5:00, we all decided to make one last bathroom stop before the flight. Mysteriously at 5:10, without any warning or announcement, the boarding began for Flight #908! Mary had to run to the bathroom to get Karen, and we all hurriedly boarded the plane. We took off at 5:20, ten minutes before the scheduled departure time! Who can figure the way time works in Mexico?
This flight was long; almost four hours and 1553 miles to Los Angeles. Dinner and plenty of drinks were served, and the flight was smooth, offering ample time for reading and sleeping. We arrived at Los Angeles naturally a bit before schedule, and proceeded down a long hallway towards customs. Signs reminded us to "Declare It, Dump It or Pay a Fine!", so we got rid of all extra fruits and vegetables in our luggage. First we had our passports checked and then our bags passed through the inspection point. We then had to load all our suitcases and carry them down another long hallway to a conveyor belt where we could send our checked bags on to our next flight. After this experience, I promised Karen that we would invest in some rollaway luggage for our next trip! We then left the International Airport with our carry-ons and made our way to Terminal #3 which houses Alaska Airlines, the site of our departure to Portland. There we ran into an Asian girl, lost and unable to speak English. She was trying to get to Omaha and St. Louis. Tom and Mary helped her find her way to her next flight. We had about an hour and forty minutes to wait for our next flight so we had drinks at the Burger King and Starbucks nearby. We noticed a definite drop-off in the quality and level of service now that we were back in the United States. Why were the workers so unhappy and angry?
Eventually the time passed, and we boarded Flight #251 for our final two-hour flight back to Portland. There were less than 20 people on this flight, and we had plenty of seats to choose from. We managed to sleep a bit, but I enjoyed the beautiful Holiday night scenes of the brilliantly lit California cities as we flew high above them. We arrived in Portland at 11:45 PM and called Shelley immediately. We then successfully collected our entire luggage, marveling at how it had arrived safe and sound through so many checkpoints.
Home Again Safe and Sound, 12/16 Wednesday
Shelley arrived at the airport shortly after midnight to pick us up, and we crammed our suitcases into her van. We were acutely aware of the temperature difference between Portland and Mexico! We drove back to her house and transferred the bags to the Altima, and after saying some poignant good-byes, were on familiar and friendly I-5 heading home to Creswell. The fog was thick, making the drive back particularly challenging. Tom and Mary took turns keeping me awake as I drove home. We arrived at the Foust home around 3:00 AM, and found an anxious Ryan Foust eagerly awaiting his parents. By 3:15, we were home ourselves where we encountered one of the greatest treats of the entire vacation: our own bed.
Epilogue
It always takes time to process the impact of wonderful and exhilarating adventures. Where else can you get numerous snorkeling and swimming experiences in the middle of December? The trip to Chemuyil, and the Cozumel adventure both stand out as special experiences. We formed the "Tortuga Club" and it had 100% membership. We struck a nice balance between elaborate dinners at exotic locations, and meals cooked at home. We consumed copious amounts of Superior and Modelo as well as delicious Jumex juices and large bottles of "Auga Purificada". The morning walks were filled with colorful flowers and pelican fly-bys over sandy beaches. Remembrances of afternoons spent on the beach reading or just watching the turquoise-blue waters with the white surf breaking over the reef are locked in our hearts. The full moon stirred our souls as it rose over the island of Cozumel, sending its silver streak straight towards our night-lit condo. The silent mystery of Coba with its new observatory and the refreshing beauty of the Grand Cenote will always inspire us. We enjoyed the intensity of the sudden rainstorms rolling in from the Caribbean with the endless variety of cloud formations that accompanied the ever-changing weather. The elegant grounds and antique charm of the Hotel Hacienda Chichen contrasted nicely with the dark power of the immense ruins of Chichen Itza with its mysteries of the jaguar, serpent and Chok-Mul. Above all, we will remember forging new bonds of friendship and fellowship as we spent fourteen days in tropical Paradise discovering and integrating the Mexican soul within our selves.
Karen was up at the crack of dawn for a solo bird walk. Within minutes she excitedly returned describing the colorful plumage's she had seen. She convinced me to get up, and we walked about the beautiful grounds watching the birds begin their day in the cool morning air. We all assembled again for breakfast at 7:00 AM. From the verandah we continued our bird watch as a group. We saw red-striped woodpeckers, turquoise winged blackbirds and bright red, yellow and orange birds as we enjoyed our breakfasts.
After breakfast, we made our way to the "entrada" for our big day of touring Chichen Itza. We paid our entrance fee of 50 pesos each, and hired a guide for $30 US, so that we could hear the rich details associated with the groups of ruins. We then toured in depth the same structures we had seen the day before. In addition, we explored the "Observatory" and the "Nunnery". The guided part of the tour took about two hours, after which we informally explored some of the structures in more depth. We climbed the "Observatory" and examined the "Pyramid of the High Priests". At that point, it was noon, and we split up to pursue separate adventures. Karen and I went to the main entrance where we ate lunch, drank a delicious pineapple-fruit drink and briefly shopped the "tiendas" before returning to the ruins for more extensive touring. We spent two more hours examining the "Platforn of Skulls", "Platform of Eagles and Jaguars", "Temple of Warriors", "Mercado" and "Group of 1000 Columns". By that time we had been walking for 5 hours, and we decided that Chichen Itza had been "toured".
We returned to find the Orr family relaxing by the hotel swimming pool. We drank a cervaza with them and then returned to our hotel room for some rest. Soon, the Fousts dropped by our room, and we shared stories of the day's adventures. That afternoon, we all shared one last wonderful meal at the Hotel Hacienda Chichen, and then met briefly in the hotel lobby to discuss airport pick-up procedures in Portland, with the realization that our tropical fantasy was quickly coming to and end. We went to bed early in preparation for the marathon travel day coming the next day.
Long Journey Home, 12/15 Tuesday
I awoke at 5:00 AM, unable to sleep any longer in anticipation of the drive to Cancun. By the time I had shaved, showered and dressed, Karen and the Fousts were stirring in preparation also. Since the Orrs were taking a later flight, they were still in bed. Karen had spent a restless night with a strong touch of the "tourista", but she had recovered enough by morning to be able to travel. Part of her uneasiness was no doubt caused by the fact that we had killed a black spider as big around as a 50-cent piece in our shower!
We packed our many "maletas" into our red rental car and said goodbye to our waiter who was seeing us off at 6:45 AM. We found that the waiters at the Hotel Hacienda Chichen were always ready to serve at any time, day or night. Outstanding service was a trademark of the hotel. As a matter of fact, we received excellent service wherever we traveled in Mexico. After leaving the hotel, we drove through the tourist town of Piste, located adjacent to the ruins, and reached the entrance of the "Autopista", a world-class freeway with exorbitant tolls. The entrance was located 2 kilometers west of Piste, and it offered a chance to drive to Cancun "muy rapido". We paid our first toll of 31 pesos, Mexican money only, and proceeded north towards Cancun, traveling about 120 kilometers ,or 75 miles per hour. At that speed, the distance evaporated quickly, and soon we were at the border between the states of Yucatan and Quintana Roo. There we paid a final toll of 105 pesos. Our total toll was 136 pesos, or about $13.60 US. We avoided a higher toll by getting off the freeway before Cancun, and taking a spur road to the airport. This spur road took us to Highway 307, the Cancun-Tulum corridor. There we turned north, driving about 2 kilometers past the airport turnoff so that we could fill our gas tank at a Pemex station. It was 8:45 AM, when we finished filling our tank and drove back to the airport. We got our suitcases out of the car and put them on the curb and then I drove the car back to the Budget lot. The young "inspector" found nothing wrong with the car, and made no attempt to assess fees for damages as is often done in Mexico. In the office, the clerk filled out the paperwork and tried to convince Tom and I that the Chiapas was a good area to visit. We told him that we loved Mexico, but would probably avoid the Chiapas. All in all, our rental car performed remarkably well on the inconsistent Mexican roads. Budget has provided good service at an excellent cost both times we have been in Mexico. The final bill for our rental car this trip was $370 US, not bad for two weeks!
We returned to the airport and found that we had to pack our bags around some airport construction. We still managed to find our way to the Mexicana check in desk where we checked our bags all the way to Portland. After checking our bags, we had breakfast in the airport, then made our way through security. I found once again that my boots with their metal eyes set off the alarms. We had about an hour to wait for our 11:40 AM flight, and we spotted the Orrs arriving for their flight while we were waiting for ours. The time passed quickly and soon we were boarding Flight #342 to fly the 800 miles to Mexico City, the first leg of our long journey.
It took about two hours and fifteen minutes to get to Mexico City with Mexicana once again providing an excellent service of lunch and drinks. Just before Mexico city, we spotted the awesome smoking volcano, Pococatepetl, seemingly poised for a major eruption at any moment. As we descended into Mexico City, the intense smog that characterizes this world metropolis was strongly evident. When we landed, we all had some difficulty breathing the polluted air. We spent three and a half hours in the Mexico City airport cruising the duty-free shops, spending our last pesos and relaxing while we waited for our connecting Flight #908 scheduled to leave at 5:30 PM. While we were waiting, we camped out at Gate 19, the Mexicana center. At about 4:30, an announcement in Spanish advised passengers to move to Gate 18 if they were on Flight #908. Fortunately some of us understood Spanish! At 5:00, we all decided to make one last bathroom stop before the flight. Mysteriously at 5:10, without any warning or announcement, the boarding began for Flight #908! Mary had to run to the bathroom to get Karen, and we all hurriedly boarded the plane. We took off at 5:20, ten minutes before the scheduled departure time! Who can figure the way time works in Mexico?
This flight was long; almost four hours and 1553 miles to Los Angeles. Dinner and plenty of drinks were served, and the flight was smooth, offering ample time for reading and sleeping. We arrived at Los Angeles naturally a bit before schedule, and proceeded down a long hallway towards customs. Signs reminded us to "Declare It, Dump It or Pay a Fine!", so we got rid of all extra fruits and vegetables in our luggage. First we had our passports checked and then our bags passed through the inspection point. We then had to load all our suitcases and carry them down another long hallway to a conveyor belt where we could send our checked bags on to our next flight. After this experience, I promised Karen that we would invest in some rollaway luggage for our next trip! We then left the International Airport with our carry-ons and made our way to Terminal #3 which houses Alaska Airlines, the site of our departure to Portland. There we ran into an Asian girl, lost and unable to speak English. She was trying to get to Omaha and St. Louis. Tom and Mary helped her find her way to her next flight. We had about an hour and forty minutes to wait for our next flight so we had drinks at the Burger King and Starbucks nearby. We noticed a definite drop-off in the quality and level of service now that we were back in the United States. Why were the workers so unhappy and angry?
Eventually the time passed, and we boarded Flight #251 for our final two-hour flight back to Portland. There were less than 20 people on this flight, and we had plenty of seats to choose from. We managed to sleep a bit, but I enjoyed the beautiful Holiday night scenes of the brilliantly lit California cities as we flew high above them. We arrived in Portland at 11:45 PM and called Shelley immediately. We then successfully collected our entire luggage, marveling at how it had arrived safe and sound through so many checkpoints.
Home Again Safe and Sound, 12/16 Wednesday
Shelley arrived at the airport shortly after midnight to pick us up, and we crammed our suitcases into her van. We were acutely aware of the temperature difference between Portland and Mexico! We drove back to her house and transferred the bags to the Altima, and after saying some poignant good-byes, were on familiar and friendly I-5 heading home to Creswell. The fog was thick, making the drive back particularly challenging. Tom and Mary took turns keeping me awake as I drove home. We arrived at the Foust home around 3:00 AM, and found an anxious Ryan Foust eagerly awaiting his parents. By 3:15, we were home ourselves where we encountered one of the greatest treats of the entire vacation: our own bed.
Epilogue
It always takes time to process the impact of wonderful and exhilarating adventures. Where else can you get numerous snorkeling and swimming experiences in the middle of December? The trip to Chemuyil, and the Cozumel adventure both stand out as special experiences. We formed the "Tortuga Club" and it had 100% membership. We struck a nice balance between elaborate dinners at exotic locations, and meals cooked at home. We consumed copious amounts of Superior and Modelo as well as delicious Jumex juices and large bottles of "Auga Purificada". The morning walks were filled with colorful flowers and pelican fly-bys over sandy beaches. Remembrances of afternoons spent on the beach reading or just watching the turquoise-blue waters with the white surf breaking over the reef are locked in our hearts. The full moon stirred our souls as it rose over the island of Cozumel, sending its silver streak straight towards our night-lit condo. The silent mystery of Coba with its new observatory and the refreshing beauty of the Grand Cenote will always inspire us. We enjoyed the intensity of the sudden rainstorms rolling in from the Caribbean with the endless variety of cloud formations that accompanied the ever-changing weather. The elegant grounds and antique charm of the Hotel Hacienda Chichen contrasted nicely with the dark power of the immense ruins of Chichen Itza with its mysteries of the jaguar, serpent and Chok-Mul. Above all, we will remember forging new bonds of friendship and fellowship as we spent fourteen days in tropical Paradise discovering and integrating the Mexican soul within our selves.
Voyage To Turquoise Waters of Half Moon Bay, Akumal (Day 12-13)
Last Day at Vista Del Mar, 12/12 Saturday
We slept in a bit until 7:15, and then got our snorkeling gear together and drove the short distance to Yakul Lagoon. There we paid our 50 pesos each and continued our succession of world class snorkeling experiences. We spotted many colorful fish not seen in Half Moon Bay, including one gigantic rainbow colored parrotfish, and some beautiful angelfish. While I was sitting on a rock in the water near shore, a little brown fish darted out from the bottom of the rock and bit me. When I did not respond by moving off his rock, he bit me twice more, letting me know that I was not welcome on his rock.
After a wonderful snorkeling adventure in Yakul Lagoon, we returned to our condo for rest and relaxation, just reading and laying on the beach. Late in the afternoon, Tom and Mary went to Akumal Bay to snorkel, and saw two more sea turtles there! We all made plans to make one more attempt to see the turtles Sunday before we left for Chichen Itza.
We put together a meal of leftovers and spent the evening somewhat sadly packing our bags, as we knew that our time at Half Moon Bay was coming to an end.
The Tortuga Club goes to Chichen Itza, 12/13 Sunday
Last night Tom and Mary returned from their snorkeling adventure in Akumal Bay with excited tales of sea turtles. They agreed to guide us early in the morning to the spot where they had seen them. Despite the fact that there was no water in our condo, we managed to arrange our final packing and took our snorkeling gear with us as we drove over to Akumal Bay. We snorkeled directly out from the Akumal Dive Shop about 400 or 500 meters. Almost immediately we all spotted a small sea turtle grazing on the grass at the bottom of the bay. It was an exciting moment for all of us. We watched the turtle for 15 or 20 minutes, and then caught a glimpse of a much larger one that moved quickly away, not wanting to be as social as the smaller turtle.
After the turtle snorkel, we appropriately had breakfast at the Turtle Bay Bakery, and bought some turtle shirts at the nearby shop. Tom and Mary gave the rest of their school supplies to a friend of a schoolteacher who promised to get them to the children. We formed the "Tortuga Club" and all of us were qualified members, having seen a sea turtle! Then we returned to the Vista Del mar one last time and packed our many suitcases into our Tusuro, saying a reluctant goodbye to Half Moon Bay and the Vista Del Mar.
It was 10:40 AM when we left Akumal. We traveled back down to Tulum, filled up at the Pemex and once more braved the pock-marked Coba road, with Randy almost being swallowed up by the Mother of all pot holes!. As we passed through the Mayan villages on the way to Coba, Randy stopped at the topes and gave the rest of his school supplies to the children. The children became so excited, that they almost caused a small riot, and Randy had to be careful to keep the doors closed! They seemed somewhat desperate. At Coba we turned north to Nuevo Xcan. Then we traveled west along the "free road" through little "poblados" such s Candelaria, X-catzim and Chemax before arriving at Valladolid, a major city of 29,000. We were able to continue on the "free road" by turning left just before entering the Autopista and going through the center of Valladolid. We followed the blue signs pointing to the "Convent" and that led us out of town back to the "free road". Just out of Valladolid, we saw an ominous Mexican prison, one of the most foreboding sights we witnessed. We continued through Dzitnup, where a spectacular cenote is located. We filed that location away for future exploration. Then we passed through Kaua and Xcalacoop where children greeted us at the topes with items to sell. We could tell at that point that we were close to Chichen Itza.
We arrived at the Hotel Hacienda Chichen at 2:15 PM. It took us 3 hours and 35 minutes to negotiate the old road from Akumal to Chichen Itza. We suspected that we missed a cut-off road at Coba that would have saved us an hour, as we saw a road coming in at Chemax that had a road sign that pointed to Coba.
We found the grounds at the Hacienda Chichen to be elegant, with many different trees, birds and plants. A beautiful fountain stood in the center of the grounds with old but comfortable cabanas located near the main building. The cabanas had rocking chairs on the front porch, and air conditioning and dehumidifiers inside. A large swimming pool was nearby with recliners, sun umbrellas, easy chairs and tables placed for convenience. A waiter was on hand at the swimming pool to take orders for food and drink. Three waiters hurried out to take our entire considerable luggage to our cabanas, and soon we were checked in and ready to explore the ruins.
The ruins were a 5-minute walk from the hotel, so we hurried over to take advantage of the fact that it was Sunday, and we could get in free. It was a cool, cloudy day, perfect for the physical exertion necessary for touring this immense group of ruins. We went immediately to "El Castillo" which is the imposing world-famous pyramid at Chichen Itza. We climbed the steep face of the pyramid, and were rewarded with an outstanding 360-degree view of the rest of the grounds. Lauren once again showed her adventuresome spirit by climbing up and down the pyramid with very little fear. After climbing the pyramid, we journeyed inside it to see the jade, ruby-eyed jaguar. It was an intense journey along narrow passageways and up and down steep stairways. Next we toured the nearby "Temple of Warriors" with Chok-Mul residing on top, his hands awaiting the next bleeding heart. Then it was on to the "Ball Court", where one can get a real feel of the savage "games" played by the Toltecs and Mayans.
We then returned to our hotel room, "Pollack #9", for showers and a change of clothes before dinner. When dinner time arrived, we assembled at the outdoor section of the restaurant where our ever vigilant waiters had prepared a table for us. We dined elegantly in the beautiful atmosphere of the hotel veranda surrounded by sumptuous tropical gardens.
After dinner, we hurried to make the 7:00 PM laser light and sound show in the ruins. When we got to the entrance, we found that the first showing was in Spanish, and the English showing did not start until 8:00. So we returned to the hotel and relaxed in the rocking chairs in the front of the hotel, observing the night insects and enjoying the clear star-lit sky in the warm, humid night. We returned at 8:00, and enjoyed the hour-long show that was an entertaining, dramatic cultural perspective of the Maya-Toltec civilization in Chichen Itza. The drama was heightened by many shooting stars that seemed to fall in concert with the colorful lighting effects splashed across the temples.
At the end of the show, we were ready to return to our hotel where we gratefully fell into bed in our wonderfully air conditioned rooms.
We slept in a bit until 7:15, and then got our snorkeling gear together and drove the short distance to Yakul Lagoon. There we paid our 50 pesos each and continued our succession of world class snorkeling experiences. We spotted many colorful fish not seen in Half Moon Bay, including one gigantic rainbow colored parrotfish, and some beautiful angelfish. While I was sitting on a rock in the water near shore, a little brown fish darted out from the bottom of the rock and bit me. When I did not respond by moving off his rock, he bit me twice more, letting me know that I was not welcome on his rock.
After a wonderful snorkeling adventure in Yakul Lagoon, we returned to our condo for rest and relaxation, just reading and laying on the beach. Late in the afternoon, Tom and Mary went to Akumal Bay to snorkel, and saw two more sea turtles there! We all made plans to make one more attempt to see the turtles Sunday before we left for Chichen Itza.
We put together a meal of leftovers and spent the evening somewhat sadly packing our bags, as we knew that our time at Half Moon Bay was coming to an end.
The Tortuga Club goes to Chichen Itza, 12/13 Sunday
Last night Tom and Mary returned from their snorkeling adventure in Akumal Bay with excited tales of sea turtles. They agreed to guide us early in the morning to the spot where they had seen them. Despite the fact that there was no water in our condo, we managed to arrange our final packing and took our snorkeling gear with us as we drove over to Akumal Bay. We snorkeled directly out from the Akumal Dive Shop about 400 or 500 meters. Almost immediately we all spotted a small sea turtle grazing on the grass at the bottom of the bay. It was an exciting moment for all of us. We watched the turtle for 15 or 20 minutes, and then caught a glimpse of a much larger one that moved quickly away, not wanting to be as social as the smaller turtle.
After the turtle snorkel, we appropriately had breakfast at the Turtle Bay Bakery, and bought some turtle shirts at the nearby shop. Tom and Mary gave the rest of their school supplies to a friend of a schoolteacher who promised to get them to the children. We formed the "Tortuga Club" and all of us were qualified members, having seen a sea turtle! Then we returned to the Vista Del mar one last time and packed our many suitcases into our Tusuro, saying a reluctant goodbye to Half Moon Bay and the Vista Del Mar.
It was 10:40 AM when we left Akumal. We traveled back down to Tulum, filled up at the Pemex and once more braved the pock-marked Coba road, with Randy almost being swallowed up by the Mother of all pot holes!. As we passed through the Mayan villages on the way to Coba, Randy stopped at the topes and gave the rest of his school supplies to the children. The children became so excited, that they almost caused a small riot, and Randy had to be careful to keep the doors closed! They seemed somewhat desperate. At Coba we turned north to Nuevo Xcan. Then we traveled west along the "free road" through little "poblados" such s Candelaria, X-catzim and Chemax before arriving at Valladolid, a major city of 29,000. We were able to continue on the "free road" by turning left just before entering the Autopista and going through the center of Valladolid. We followed the blue signs pointing to the "Convent" and that led us out of town back to the "free road". Just out of Valladolid, we saw an ominous Mexican prison, one of the most foreboding sights we witnessed. We continued through Dzitnup, where a spectacular cenote is located. We filed that location away for future exploration. Then we passed through Kaua and Xcalacoop where children greeted us at the topes with items to sell. We could tell at that point that we were close to Chichen Itza.
We arrived at the Hotel Hacienda Chichen at 2:15 PM. It took us 3 hours and 35 minutes to negotiate the old road from Akumal to Chichen Itza. We suspected that we missed a cut-off road at Coba that would have saved us an hour, as we saw a road coming in at Chemax that had a road sign that pointed to Coba.
We found the grounds at the Hacienda Chichen to be elegant, with many different trees, birds and plants. A beautiful fountain stood in the center of the grounds with old but comfortable cabanas located near the main building. The cabanas had rocking chairs on the front porch, and air conditioning and dehumidifiers inside. A large swimming pool was nearby with recliners, sun umbrellas, easy chairs and tables placed for convenience. A waiter was on hand at the swimming pool to take orders for food and drink. Three waiters hurried out to take our entire considerable luggage to our cabanas, and soon we were checked in and ready to explore the ruins.
The ruins were a 5-minute walk from the hotel, so we hurried over to take advantage of the fact that it was Sunday, and we could get in free. It was a cool, cloudy day, perfect for the physical exertion necessary for touring this immense group of ruins. We went immediately to "El Castillo" which is the imposing world-famous pyramid at Chichen Itza. We climbed the steep face of the pyramid, and were rewarded with an outstanding 360-degree view of the rest of the grounds. Lauren once again showed her adventuresome spirit by climbing up and down the pyramid with very little fear. After climbing the pyramid, we journeyed inside it to see the jade, ruby-eyed jaguar. It was an intense journey along narrow passageways and up and down steep stairways. Next we toured the nearby "Temple of Warriors" with Chok-Mul residing on top, his hands awaiting the next bleeding heart. Then it was on to the "Ball Court", where one can get a real feel of the savage "games" played by the Toltecs and Mayans.
We then returned to our hotel room, "Pollack #9", for showers and a change of clothes before dinner. When dinner time arrived, we assembled at the outdoor section of the restaurant where our ever vigilant waiters had prepared a table for us. We dined elegantly in the beautiful atmosphere of the hotel veranda surrounded by sumptuous tropical gardens.
After dinner, we hurried to make the 7:00 PM laser light and sound show in the ruins. When we got to the entrance, we found that the first showing was in Spanish, and the English showing did not start until 8:00. So we returned to the hotel and relaxed in the rocking chairs in the front of the hotel, observing the night insects and enjoying the clear star-lit sky in the warm, humid night. We returned at 8:00, and enjoyed the hour-long show that was an entertaining, dramatic cultural perspective of the Maya-Toltec civilization in Chichen Itza. The drama was heightened by many shooting stars that seemed to fall in concert with the colorful lighting effects splashed across the temples.
At the end of the show, we were ready to return to our hotel where we gratefully fell into bed in our wonderfully air conditioned rooms.
Voyage To Turquoise Waters of Half Moon Bay, Akumal (Day 10-11)
Rest and Relaxation, 12/10 Thursday
We set aside this day as a release from the frenetic pace of the past few days. We bought a few groceries at the Super Chomak, and picked up another 2 kilos of tortillas in Akumal Pueblo. We slept in, and the Fousts prepared a nice brunch for us about 10:30. Shortly after brunch, Shelley's friends showed up at our condo. They left their gear at our place and went on to tour Tulum. Randy, Karen and I engaged in some lengthy reading that afternoon. When Shelley's friends returned from Tulum, they and Shelley snorkeled Half Moon Bay, and Shelley was very excited when she was lucky enough to spot a sea turtle. Tom and Mary snorkeled Yakul Lagoon and were enthusiastic about the results, so we all planned another snorkeling adventure there.
In the evening, Tom, Mary, Karen and I walked to Akumal to look around. The weather had been mixed, with threatening clouds and rough seas, but the evening turned hot and humid, and the stars were out and shining again. Shelley went to spend the night with her friends in Playa Del Carmen. We planned to meet them at the ferry dock in Playa and explore Cozumel Friday morning.
Cozumel, 12/11 Friday
I awoke at 5:45 AM in the darkness just before dawn. I went to the balcony to observe the calm, dark seas. A weak front was pushing clouds to the East over Cozumel. A solitary snorkeler was gliding through the dark water, his underwater light sending a penetrating beam darting in all directions. The weather promised to be unsettled as immense rain clouds boiled up the Yucatan peninsula. We packed up our suitcases full of snorkeling gear, and hit the road for Playa to catch the ferry to Cozumel. At Playa we were lucky enough to find parking spots a few blocks away from the ferry terminal. Tom and Randy exchanged money at the bank, and we found a breakfast place that offered light meals for $1-3 US. After breakfast, we met Shelley and her friends at the terminal, and bought our tickets for Cozumel. We loaded the ferry and disembarked at 10:00. A Michael Jackson video played as we cruised across the channel to Cozumel in our ferry, "The Mexican III". Just before we arrived, a lady who offered a snorkeling experience in the glass-bottomed boat, "La Tortuga", approached us. We negotiated a price of $25 US for each person, and set up our snorkeling tour for 11:30.
We had just enough time to take a quick look around the port city of San Miguel before returning to the dock and loading our gear on "La Tortuga" for the day's adventure. In addition to the eight of us, Shelley's three friends came along. Four women from Chile, a grandmother, mother and two daughters and two young Dutch men rounded out the group. The Dutch boys and the young girls from Chile provided plenty of entertainment throughout the trip, flirting shamelessly with each other. We had a wonderful day of snorkeling, with plenty of cervazas, sodas, sandwiches and bottled water. The weather cooperated, and there were only a few brief showers. We snorkeled three reefs arriving eventually at the Chankanab reef, our most southerly point. From there, we worked our way back, exploring multitudes of brightly colored fish and coral formations. Karen and I used our life jackets again so that we would feel secure. The trip lasted about three and one-half-hours, and we felt satisfied as we ate our ham and cheese sandwiches while returning to port. Lauren did especially well on this trip. Not many five-year-olds can endure such a lengthy trip, let alone swim in the Caribbean for 45 minutes with only water wings for support! After we got off the boat, we packed our snorkel gear and lugged our heavy suitcases to a nearby park. There Randy and I watched the suitcases while the others did some brief shopping.
We caught the 5:00 PM ferry back to Playa as a glorious sunset lit up the western skies, the first time we had seen such a thing on this trip! In Playa we made our way to "El Tacolate", one of our favorite Mexican restaurants. Happy Hour was in full swing, and the Margaritas were loaded! We ate long leisurely meals of lime soups, kabobs and fajitas and then walked over to the "helado" shop and got some ice cream. Many locals were participating in festivities associated with "Our Lady of Guadaloupe". There were long lines of children dressed in white and red, marching through the streets of Playa. They were following an adult with a flame-lit torch. Other groups of bicyclists and runners also were participating.
Before leaving Playa, we drove to the "St. Francis de Assisi" which is the brand new Super Mercado, in reality a Costco store. There Randy and I people-watched as the others shopped again. We noticed a fellow who had the unusual job of guarding the bicycles. Arriving shoppers gave him their bicycle, he gave them a tag and then watched it while they shopped. When they returned, they paid him a few pesos, and reclaimed their bicycles. After Costco, we zigzagged our way through the zany streets of Playa. Traffic police directed traffic at crucial intersections in a nonchalant manner while other groups of police cruised in pick up trucks, one policeman stationed in the back with an automatic rifle and a bullet proof vest. Eventually we worked our way back to the main road and turned South towards Akumal. The drive back was a nightmare. The roads were filled with "Our Lady" runners, construction vehicles, large busses and the flashing lights of police cars. To top it off, we experienced a torrential downpour and visibility was almost zero. We survived however, and were glad to reach our condo where we gratefully fell into bed at 9:30 PM, our latest night yet.
We set aside this day as a release from the frenetic pace of the past few days. We bought a few groceries at the Super Chomak, and picked up another 2 kilos of tortillas in Akumal Pueblo. We slept in, and the Fousts prepared a nice brunch for us about 10:30. Shortly after brunch, Shelley's friends showed up at our condo. They left their gear at our place and went on to tour Tulum. Randy, Karen and I engaged in some lengthy reading that afternoon. When Shelley's friends returned from Tulum, they and Shelley snorkeled Half Moon Bay, and Shelley was very excited when she was lucky enough to spot a sea turtle. Tom and Mary snorkeled Yakul Lagoon and were enthusiastic about the results, so we all planned another snorkeling adventure there.
In the evening, Tom, Mary, Karen and I walked to Akumal to look around. The weather had been mixed, with threatening clouds and rough seas, but the evening turned hot and humid, and the stars were out and shining again. Shelley went to spend the night with her friends in Playa Del Carmen. We planned to meet them at the ferry dock in Playa and explore Cozumel Friday morning.
Cozumel, 12/11 Friday
I awoke at 5:45 AM in the darkness just before dawn. I went to the balcony to observe the calm, dark seas. A weak front was pushing clouds to the East over Cozumel. A solitary snorkeler was gliding through the dark water, his underwater light sending a penetrating beam darting in all directions. The weather promised to be unsettled as immense rain clouds boiled up the Yucatan peninsula. We packed up our suitcases full of snorkeling gear, and hit the road for Playa to catch the ferry to Cozumel. At Playa we were lucky enough to find parking spots a few blocks away from the ferry terminal. Tom and Randy exchanged money at the bank, and we found a breakfast place that offered light meals for $1-3 US. After breakfast, we met Shelley and her friends at the terminal, and bought our tickets for Cozumel. We loaded the ferry and disembarked at 10:00. A Michael Jackson video played as we cruised across the channel to Cozumel in our ferry, "The Mexican III". Just before we arrived, a lady who offered a snorkeling experience in the glass-bottomed boat, "La Tortuga", approached us. We negotiated a price of $25 US for each person, and set up our snorkeling tour for 11:30.
We had just enough time to take a quick look around the port city of San Miguel before returning to the dock and loading our gear on "La Tortuga" for the day's adventure. In addition to the eight of us, Shelley's three friends came along. Four women from Chile, a grandmother, mother and two daughters and two young Dutch men rounded out the group. The Dutch boys and the young girls from Chile provided plenty of entertainment throughout the trip, flirting shamelessly with each other. We had a wonderful day of snorkeling, with plenty of cervazas, sodas, sandwiches and bottled water. The weather cooperated, and there were only a few brief showers. We snorkeled three reefs arriving eventually at the Chankanab reef, our most southerly point. From there, we worked our way back, exploring multitudes of brightly colored fish and coral formations. Karen and I used our life jackets again so that we would feel secure. The trip lasted about three and one-half-hours, and we felt satisfied as we ate our ham and cheese sandwiches while returning to port. Lauren did especially well on this trip. Not many five-year-olds can endure such a lengthy trip, let alone swim in the Caribbean for 45 minutes with only water wings for support! After we got off the boat, we packed our snorkel gear and lugged our heavy suitcases to a nearby park. There Randy and I watched the suitcases while the others did some brief shopping.
We caught the 5:00 PM ferry back to Playa as a glorious sunset lit up the western skies, the first time we had seen such a thing on this trip! In Playa we made our way to "El Tacolate", one of our favorite Mexican restaurants. Happy Hour was in full swing, and the Margaritas were loaded! We ate long leisurely meals of lime soups, kabobs and fajitas and then walked over to the "helado" shop and got some ice cream. Many locals were participating in festivities associated with "Our Lady of Guadaloupe". There were long lines of children dressed in white and red, marching through the streets of Playa. They were following an adult with a flame-lit torch. Other groups of bicyclists and runners also were participating.
Before leaving Playa, we drove to the "St. Francis de Assisi" which is the brand new Super Mercado, in reality a Costco store. There Randy and I people-watched as the others shopped again. We noticed a fellow who had the unusual job of guarding the bicycles. Arriving shoppers gave him their bicycle, he gave them a tag and then watched it while they shopped. When they returned, they paid him a few pesos, and reclaimed their bicycles. After Costco, we zigzagged our way through the zany streets of Playa. Traffic police directed traffic at crucial intersections in a nonchalant manner while other groups of police cruised in pick up trucks, one policeman stationed in the back with an automatic rifle and a bullet proof vest. Eventually we worked our way back to the main road and turned South towards Akumal. The drive back was a nightmare. The roads were filled with "Our Lady" runners, construction vehicles, large busses and the flashing lights of police cars. To top it off, we experienced a torrential downpour and visibility was almost zero. We survived however, and were glad to reach our condo where we gratefully fell into bed at 9:30 PM, our latest night yet.
Voyage To Turquoise Waters of Half Moon Bay, Akumal (Day 8-9)
Coba, 12/8 Tuesday
Karen, Tom, Mary and I were up bright and early to experience the adventure of Coba, the magnificent Mayan ruins set in the jungle. We left about 7:15 AM, and drove South on Highway 307, battling the heavy construction most of the way to Tulum. Just before Tulum, we encountered a large, hilarious road sign that read as follows:
Obviously the translator was not too adept in English. In Spanish it read better:
We stopped at the Pemex in Tulum for gas, and watched carefully to make sure that the attendant put the pump at zero before he filled the tank. Then we made our way one more kilometer to the unmarked road that led inland to Coba. Actually, there was a sign about 100 meters after the turn, but a large bush covered it. We traveled the 47 kilometers to Coba carefully, dodging the countless potholes that threatened the undercarriage of our car. Along the way we passed through sporadically placed Mayan villages protected by well-hidden topes. We spotted buzzards in the dead snags of jungle trees waiting patiently for something to die. Inviting signs scattered about the landscape pointed to cenotes that welcomed the weary traveler.
In a little more than an hour, we arrived in Coba early enough to be among the first ones there. We paid our peso to the serious young Mayan guarding the banyo , and all took a refreshing pause. We decided not to hire the services of a guide for $32 US dollars at the entrance, as some of us had been here before, and knew our way around. However, when we reached the first group of ruins, "The Church", we were approached by a Mayan free-lance guide who spoke only Spanish. He showed us some interesting features of the ruins, and we were pleasantly surprised to find that we could mostly understand him! So after viewing the first group of ruins, we negotiated a fair price for his services, and continued on through the rest of the ruins. We enjoyed communicating with him in Spanish, as he regaled us with stories of the ball court contests with the lucky winning captains losing their heads and hearts. What a honor! He pointed out different Mayan "medicine" plants, and led us to the tombs of the "Jugadores", who were the ball players especially selected from birth. The climax of any tour of Coba is the great pyramid, No Huch Mul. Some of us made the steep ascent to the top, and were rewarded with a panoramic sight of the jungle below. Climbing down will bring a pang of fear to anyone, especially when they make that first step, but we all made it safe and sound to the bottom. We next visited the newly unearthed observatory, a stunning site that is perfectly round with a domed top. Archeologists believe that it was used for astrological observations and calculations of the growing seasons. The hike around the Coba complex took us about two hours, in which we walked 4 kilometers. It was an experience that brought about a reflective mood in all of us as we pondered the grandeur of these very old Mayan ruins.
After our tour, we shopped in the "tiendas" near the entrance, buying gifts for friends and relatives back home. Then we ate lunch at one of the outdoor restaurants while pigs and monkeys played nearby. We made quick stops to pick up tortillas at the best tortilleria in the Yucatan, and fruits and vegetables at the "fruteria". We noticed that black clouds were building, so we left, as we had experienced Coba monsoons in the past. About 10 kilometers down the road, the rain came, but fortunately it was just an intense shower that blew over quickly as we once again ran our zigzag course through the pot-hole lined road. After battling back through the construction zone north of Tulum, we arrived back in Akumal at 3:30 PM.
That afternoon, Shelley met some of her friends at our condo. They had just flown in from Portland the night before, and Shelley had a nice visit and Happy Hour at the Buena Vida with them. Her friends were staying in Playa Del Carmen, and left somewhat early as they were suffering from jet lag. Later, after a nice meal of our standard fare of rice and beans, with margaritas and cervezas, we relaxed on the beach for a while and then retired for the evening.
The Grand Cenote, 12/9 Wednesday
The birds woke us up at 6:10 AM, as they did everyday we were there. They projected an amazing variety of musical trills and chirps, and it was very pleasant to wake up to "natures alarm clock"! Karen and I took our laundry to the "lavenderia" across the street from the Super Chomak. We were able to have everything cleaned for 60 pesos ($6 US), and we had it back by 6:00 PM the same day. After that, we dropped by the Turtle Bay Bakery for a leisurely breakfast with mochacinos. There we met Tom and Mary and they joined us for breakfast. After we returned to our condo, we decided to make an excursion to the Grand Cenote, which is 2 or 3 kilometers past the turnoff to Coba. We got our snorkeling and swimming gear together, and all of us left in our two-car caravan about noon. Just past Tulum, we turned right on the Coba road following our land mark, the red-painted dive shop, and were at the entrance to the cenote in about five minutes. The day had dawned clear and bright, allowing the rays of the sun to quickly warm the earth. The temperature was beyond the 90-degree mark by the time we reached the cenote. We negotiated a "group rate" of $20 US for the eight of us, and entered the nicely landscaped cenote grounds. A white-stoned path led through elegant shrubs and palm trees. Beautiful red flowers were growing along the path, and tall green ferns graced the area. After a short walk, we came to a precipitous set of wooden stars that descended steeply down to the cenote. At the bottom, wooden walkways constructed of small tree limbs led to three different entry points to the cenote. At these entry points there were square shaped wooden platforms also constructed of tree limbs. Two of the entry points were at large pools, and the third, smaller entry point was at a channel between the pools. We went to the deeper pool, and put our clothing and snorkeling gear on the platform, taking care not to drop anything between the tree limbs. Then we took turns snorkeling with those not snorkeling watching the clothing and gear on the platform. The water was crystal clear, and the color of the water ranged from light blue to dark green and beautiful turquoise shades. The water temperature was about 5 degrees cooler than the ocean, but still very comfortable. There were hundreds of little platy-type fish swimming about, and small turtles inhabited the lily pads near the shore. Karen and I chose to wear life jackets when we snorkeled because cenotes are fresh water holes that lack the buoyancy of the ocean.
Randy led Karen and I on a tour of the cenote. We swam back into a cavern about 50 meters, where we observed beautiful rock formations in the clear water and breathtaking stalactites hanging from the ceiling. Next we swam through the narrow channel to the other large, shallower cenote pool and engaged in more swimming adventures around and through channels created by the uniquely formed stalactites. It was an incredible snorkeling, swimming and observing experience. Later Karen and I watched the others, as they became a bit more adventurous. They had discovered from other divers that they could reach another separate pool by diving a short distance under a rock ledge. So they explored this fascinating part of the cenote while we nervously waited for them to reappear in the main pool.
All of us were overwhelmed by the incredible natural beauty of the Grand Cenote, and were very glad to have made the decision to go there. After our swim, we returned to the main road and before turning back to Akumal, had a discussion about dinner. It was decided to go straight across the road and travel the 5 kilometers to the "tourist" Tulum settlement. There we found "The Piedra Escondida", a restaurant in a beautiful setting by the sea. Sitting outdoors, we were served a slowly paced meal of different fish entrees while we watched the crashing of the surf nearby. After supper, we journeyed back to Akumal as night fell. The roads were alive with local folks just getting off work, walking the roads or just waiting to catch the bus. When we got back to the condo, I went up to the roof to observe the magnificence of the star-lit night. There I noticed that from that vantage point, one can see the lights of Cozumel all along the length of the island. It is a sight that tugs at the strings that bind your soul. At an unusually late 8:30 PM, we retired, having completed another fun and interesting day in tropical Nirvana.
Karen, Tom, Mary and I were up bright and early to experience the adventure of Coba, the magnificent Mayan ruins set in the jungle. We left about 7:15 AM, and drove South on Highway 307, battling the heavy construction most of the way to Tulum. Just before Tulum, we encountered a large, hilarious road sign that read as follows:
"EXCUSE TO DISTURB YOU
IMPROVEMENT THIS ROAD
FOR YOUR COMFORT"
Obviously the translator was not too adept in English. In Spanish it read better:
"DESCULPE LAS MOLESTAS MAJORAMUS
ESTA VIA PARA SU CONVIADAD"
We stopped at the Pemex in Tulum for gas, and watched carefully to make sure that the attendant put the pump at zero before he filled the tank. Then we made our way one more kilometer to the unmarked road that led inland to Coba. Actually, there was a sign about 100 meters after the turn, but a large bush covered it. We traveled the 47 kilometers to Coba carefully, dodging the countless potholes that threatened the undercarriage of our car. Along the way we passed through sporadically placed Mayan villages protected by well-hidden topes. We spotted buzzards in the dead snags of jungle trees waiting patiently for something to die. Inviting signs scattered about the landscape pointed to cenotes that welcomed the weary traveler.
In a little more than an hour, we arrived in Coba early enough to be among the first ones there. We paid our peso to the serious young Mayan guarding the banyo , and all took a refreshing pause. We decided not to hire the services of a guide for $32 US dollars at the entrance, as some of us had been here before, and knew our way around. However, when we reached the first group of ruins, "The Church", we were approached by a Mayan free-lance guide who spoke only Spanish. He showed us some interesting features of the ruins, and we were pleasantly surprised to find that we could mostly understand him! So after viewing the first group of ruins, we negotiated a fair price for his services, and continued on through the rest of the ruins. We enjoyed communicating with him in Spanish, as he regaled us with stories of the ball court contests with the lucky winning captains losing their heads and hearts. What a honor! He pointed out different Mayan "medicine" plants, and led us to the tombs of the "Jugadores", who were the ball players especially selected from birth. The climax of any tour of Coba is the great pyramid, No Huch Mul. Some of us made the steep ascent to the top, and were rewarded with a panoramic sight of the jungle below. Climbing down will bring a pang of fear to anyone, especially when they make that first step, but we all made it safe and sound to the bottom. We next visited the newly unearthed observatory, a stunning site that is perfectly round with a domed top. Archeologists believe that it was used for astrological observations and calculations of the growing seasons. The hike around the Coba complex took us about two hours, in which we walked 4 kilometers. It was an experience that brought about a reflective mood in all of us as we pondered the grandeur of these very old Mayan ruins.
After our tour, we shopped in the "tiendas" near the entrance, buying gifts for friends and relatives back home. Then we ate lunch at one of the outdoor restaurants while pigs and monkeys played nearby. We made quick stops to pick up tortillas at the best tortilleria in the Yucatan, and fruits and vegetables at the "fruteria". We noticed that black clouds were building, so we left, as we had experienced Coba monsoons in the past. About 10 kilometers down the road, the rain came, but fortunately it was just an intense shower that blew over quickly as we once again ran our zigzag course through the pot-hole lined road. After battling back through the construction zone north of Tulum, we arrived back in Akumal at 3:30 PM.
That afternoon, Shelley met some of her friends at our condo. They had just flown in from Portland the night before, and Shelley had a nice visit and Happy Hour at the Buena Vida with them. Her friends were staying in Playa Del Carmen, and left somewhat early as they were suffering from jet lag. Later, after a nice meal of our standard fare of rice and beans, with margaritas and cervezas, we relaxed on the beach for a while and then retired for the evening.
The Grand Cenote, 12/9 Wednesday
The birds woke us up at 6:10 AM, as they did everyday we were there. They projected an amazing variety of musical trills and chirps, and it was very pleasant to wake up to "natures alarm clock"! Karen and I took our laundry to the "lavenderia" across the street from the Super Chomak. We were able to have everything cleaned for 60 pesos ($6 US), and we had it back by 6:00 PM the same day. After that, we dropped by the Turtle Bay Bakery for a leisurely breakfast with mochacinos. There we met Tom and Mary and they joined us for breakfast. After we returned to our condo, we decided to make an excursion to the Grand Cenote, which is 2 or 3 kilometers past the turnoff to Coba. We got our snorkeling and swimming gear together, and all of us left in our two-car caravan about noon. Just past Tulum, we turned right on the Coba road following our land mark, the red-painted dive shop, and were at the entrance to the cenote in about five minutes. The day had dawned clear and bright, allowing the rays of the sun to quickly warm the earth. The temperature was beyond the 90-degree mark by the time we reached the cenote. We negotiated a "group rate" of $20 US for the eight of us, and entered the nicely landscaped cenote grounds. A white-stoned path led through elegant shrubs and palm trees. Beautiful red flowers were growing along the path, and tall green ferns graced the area. After a short walk, we came to a precipitous set of wooden stars that descended steeply down to the cenote. At the bottom, wooden walkways constructed of small tree limbs led to three different entry points to the cenote. At these entry points there were square shaped wooden platforms also constructed of tree limbs. Two of the entry points were at large pools, and the third, smaller entry point was at a channel between the pools. We went to the deeper pool, and put our clothing and snorkeling gear on the platform, taking care not to drop anything between the tree limbs. Then we took turns snorkeling with those not snorkeling watching the clothing and gear on the platform. The water was crystal clear, and the color of the water ranged from light blue to dark green and beautiful turquoise shades. The water temperature was about 5 degrees cooler than the ocean, but still very comfortable. There were hundreds of little platy-type fish swimming about, and small turtles inhabited the lily pads near the shore. Karen and I chose to wear life jackets when we snorkeled because cenotes are fresh water holes that lack the buoyancy of the ocean.
Randy led Karen and I on a tour of the cenote. We swam back into a cavern about 50 meters, where we observed beautiful rock formations in the clear water and breathtaking stalactites hanging from the ceiling. Next we swam through the narrow channel to the other large, shallower cenote pool and engaged in more swimming adventures around and through channels created by the uniquely formed stalactites. It was an incredible snorkeling, swimming and observing experience. Later Karen and I watched the others, as they became a bit more adventurous. They had discovered from other divers that they could reach another separate pool by diving a short distance under a rock ledge. So they explored this fascinating part of the cenote while we nervously waited for them to reappear in the main pool.
All of us were overwhelmed by the incredible natural beauty of the Grand Cenote, and were very glad to have made the decision to go there. After our swim, we returned to the main road and before turning back to Akumal, had a discussion about dinner. It was decided to go straight across the road and travel the 5 kilometers to the "tourist" Tulum settlement. There we found "The Piedra Escondida", a restaurant in a beautiful setting by the sea. Sitting outdoors, we were served a slowly paced meal of different fish entrees while we watched the crashing of the surf nearby. After supper, we journeyed back to Akumal as night fell. The roads were alive with local folks just getting off work, walking the roads or just waiting to catch the bus. When we got back to the condo, I went up to the roof to observe the magnificence of the star-lit night. There I noticed that from that vantage point, one can see the lights of Cozumel all along the length of the island. It is a sight that tugs at the strings that bind your soul. At an unusually late 8:30 PM, we retired, having completed another fun and interesting day in tropical Nirvana.
Voyage To Turquoise Waters of Half Moon Bay, Akumal (Day 6-7)
Tulum and Casa Cenote, 12/6 Sunday
On Sundays the admission is free to Federal parks in the Yucatan. Because of that, we decided that today would be an excellent time to explore the archaeological wonders of Tulum. We got around somewhat early, and after some disorganization got rolling South on Highway 307. About halfway to Tulum, we encountered major construction that featured a detour on a rough gravel road for about ten kilometers. The new road they are building is four lanes and all cement. It will be nice when finished, but now it is tough, dangerous driving. There is a 12-inch drop off the cement shoulder of the road, and if you were to drop off it while you were driving, it would be bad news!
We still managed to arrive at the archeological site in about 20 minutes, and found that we were among the first ones there. We hired a Mayan guide who presented an informative and philosophical tour of the ruins, which are surely among the most beautiful in the world. Our guide contended that the Mayans colonized parts of Asia, and the Mid-East. He pointed out language similarities and the presence of the Star of David in the Yucatan as pieces of evidence. He also showed us a special temple that the ancient Mayans constructed so that the sun would shine through a hole to mark the Winter and Summer Solstices. Then he took us to a point where we saw in his words: "the most spectacular view of the Caribbean". Preston discovered many large iguanas living in the ruins and sunning themselves on the rock walls of the temples. The colorful flowers, shrubbery and green lawns make Tulum a special place of beauty. A sacred feeling permeates the grounds, and it was wonderful to be there so early in the morning. However, by 11:00, the tour busses were rolling in and disgorging hordes of people, and it was getting hot and crowded. After some brief shopping, we made our escape, traveling the rough road back towards Akumal.
About half way back, we came across the "Casa Cenote" sign and turned towards the ocean, following the road for about 2 kilometers. We passed the Tankah resort and a few other "casas" before eventually coming to the Casa Cenote. There we found Randy and the kids already enjoying a swim in the cenote. We went across the street to the bar and staked out a table. Then we helped ourselves to the "Texas Bar-B-Que" which turned out to be quite delicious. The restaurant was a large open-air space covered by a thatched roof. It was full of tables that overlooked the sea. The underground river from the cenote ran into the ocean right at the restaurant. We liked the snorkeling, but concluded that it was much better in Half Moon Bay. We spent much of the day eating, drinking cervazas and watching the pet Kwati-Mundi make a nuisance of himself. Karen and I took a nice walk up the beach and collected some conch shells. After one last swim in the cenote, we returned to our condo and prepared a late supper of spaghetti on our infamous "stove that never heats". Eventually we ate a very nice dinner and spent some evening time looking at the stars before retiring after a busy and active day.
Chemuyil revisited, 12/7 Monday
We went to the Akumal post office this morning and mailed post cards to Stephanie, Shandra and our respective mothers. Akumal was barely stirring so early in the morning, and we found the Turtle Bakery not open for business. We determined that more food shopping was needed, so we organized another trip to Chemuyil. Tom gathered up some more school supplies, and we were off again to Chemuyil, which is about 5 kilometers south of Akumal. The Ninos recognized us immediately when we arrived, and soon we had a large crowd of children following us around. Tom set out for the nearby school with intentions to give supplies to the superintendent, but he had not gone more than a half a block before the children cleaned him out of all the supplies he had. What an excited group of ninos! The owner of the panaderia was glad to see us again, and recognized us for the very good customers that we were. We bought another enormous bunch of different kinds of sweet rolls and pastries, and some regular bread rolls. It was such great food! Next we explored different stores not previously seen such as the "loncherita" and a corner "mercado". Before leaving, we noticed a person who was selling plastic wares out of his truck on the street. There we bought sand toys for Lauren at a fraction of the price they were in Akumal. Then we drove back to Akumal where we filled out our shopping at the Super Chomak, and returned for the afternoon snorkeling.
In the late afternoon, all of us walked down to "La Lunita" which is one of the better, and more expensive restaurants in the Akumal area. There we had excellent fish dinners while Preston and Lauren hunted crabs nearby. After finishing dinner, I walked with Shelley back down the beach to our condo while the others walked on the road. The dinner was great, but we did manage to spend $110 US dollars. We retired contentedly as the crashing noises of the breaking surf lulled us to sleep in the humid night.
On Sundays the admission is free to Federal parks in the Yucatan. Because of that, we decided that today would be an excellent time to explore the archaeological wonders of Tulum. We got around somewhat early, and after some disorganization got rolling South on Highway 307. About halfway to Tulum, we encountered major construction that featured a detour on a rough gravel road for about ten kilometers. The new road they are building is four lanes and all cement. It will be nice when finished, but now it is tough, dangerous driving. There is a 12-inch drop off the cement shoulder of the road, and if you were to drop off it while you were driving, it would be bad news!
We still managed to arrive at the archeological site in about 20 minutes, and found that we were among the first ones there. We hired a Mayan guide who presented an informative and philosophical tour of the ruins, which are surely among the most beautiful in the world. Our guide contended that the Mayans colonized parts of Asia, and the Mid-East. He pointed out language similarities and the presence of the Star of David in the Yucatan as pieces of evidence. He also showed us a special temple that the ancient Mayans constructed so that the sun would shine through a hole to mark the Winter and Summer Solstices. Then he took us to a point where we saw in his words: "the most spectacular view of the Caribbean". Preston discovered many large iguanas living in the ruins and sunning themselves on the rock walls of the temples. The colorful flowers, shrubbery and green lawns make Tulum a special place of beauty. A sacred feeling permeates the grounds, and it was wonderful to be there so early in the morning. However, by 11:00, the tour busses were rolling in and disgorging hordes of people, and it was getting hot and crowded. After some brief shopping, we made our escape, traveling the rough road back towards Akumal.
About half way back, we came across the "Casa Cenote" sign and turned towards the ocean, following the road for about 2 kilometers. We passed the Tankah resort and a few other "casas" before eventually coming to the Casa Cenote. There we found Randy and the kids already enjoying a swim in the cenote. We went across the street to the bar and staked out a table. Then we helped ourselves to the "Texas Bar-B-Que" which turned out to be quite delicious. The restaurant was a large open-air space covered by a thatched roof. It was full of tables that overlooked the sea. The underground river from the cenote ran into the ocean right at the restaurant. We liked the snorkeling, but concluded that it was much better in Half Moon Bay. We spent much of the day eating, drinking cervazas and watching the pet Kwati-Mundi make a nuisance of himself. Karen and I took a nice walk up the beach and collected some conch shells. After one last swim in the cenote, we returned to our condo and prepared a late supper of spaghetti on our infamous "stove that never heats". Eventually we ate a very nice dinner and spent some evening time looking at the stars before retiring after a busy and active day.
Chemuyil revisited, 12/7 Monday
We went to the Akumal post office this morning and mailed post cards to Stephanie, Shandra and our respective mothers. Akumal was barely stirring so early in the morning, and we found the Turtle Bakery not open for business. We determined that more food shopping was needed, so we organized another trip to Chemuyil. Tom gathered up some more school supplies, and we were off again to Chemuyil, which is about 5 kilometers south of Akumal. The Ninos recognized us immediately when we arrived, and soon we had a large crowd of children following us around. Tom set out for the nearby school with intentions to give supplies to the superintendent, but he had not gone more than a half a block before the children cleaned him out of all the supplies he had. What an excited group of ninos! The owner of the panaderia was glad to see us again, and recognized us for the very good customers that we were. We bought another enormous bunch of different kinds of sweet rolls and pastries, and some regular bread rolls. It was such great food! Next we explored different stores not previously seen such as the "loncherita" and a corner "mercado". Before leaving, we noticed a person who was selling plastic wares out of his truck on the street. There we bought sand toys for Lauren at a fraction of the price they were in Akumal. Then we drove back to Akumal where we filled out our shopping at the Super Chomak, and returned for the afternoon snorkeling.
In the late afternoon, all of us walked down to "La Lunita" which is one of the better, and more expensive restaurants in the Akumal area. There we had excellent fish dinners while Preston and Lauren hunted crabs nearby. After finishing dinner, I walked with Shelley back down the beach to our condo while the others walked on the road. The dinner was great, but we did manage to spend $110 US dollars. We retired contentedly as the crashing noises of the breaking surf lulled us to sleep in the humid night.
Voyage To Turquoise Waters of Half Moon Bay, Akumal (Day 4-5)
Playa Del Carmen, 12/4 Friday
Fate dealt me a setback this morning. A minor stuffy nose blew up into a raging sinus infection, and I felt lousy. The morning started with eggs, potatoes and ham prepared for all of us by Chef Randy. After some discussion about what to do, it was decided that because I was not feeling well, I would stay home, rest and watch Preston and Lauren while the others explored Playa Del Carmen, and did some shopping. After the others left for Playa, the kids and I retired to the beach for some recreation. Preston had already found a friend his age named Jacob. Jacob lives in Colorado, and he and Preston had already formed that magical bond that young boys find so easy to forge. They had a great time riding the waves that break over the reef of Half Moon Bay. What a great place for kids! You can be two hundred yards off shore and still be able to touch bottom! The water is as warm as a bathtub, and it abounds with fish and other marine life. About 1:00 PM, I called Preston in from the water, and we all had some "quiet" time for homework and journal writing. I read some of the completed parts of my journal to Lauren and Preston, and they were inspired to write their own "journals" and share them with me. It was a lot of fun.
Jacob and Preston returned to riding the waves about 2:30, and I took Lauren out for a "swim", which consisted of wading up to our knees in the warm, tropical water. The Playa people returned about 3:30 with excited descriptions of the buzz of Playa and their successful "regatea"(bargaining). They found a fantastic place for "sopa de lima" (lime soup), which just happened to be called "Karen's Grill". During their shopping, Karen bought a beautiful Mexican Sunface for Rod and Shandra, and they all enjoyed the greatly expanded "happy hour" which lasts from 10:00 AM to 8:00 PM! And by the way, they DO put tequila in those margaritas! Karen also purchased some antibiotics in Playa for my sinus infection. It is amazing how many medicines can be obtained without a prescription in Mexico. I started taking the drugs in the afternoon, and was starting to notice marked improvement by the evening.
The afternoon provided more fantastic snorkeling with Mary and Randy spotting a huge StingRay in the shallows. It was much more humid today with higher temperatures and sunny skies. The Playa group had eaten a big lunch, so no one felt like preparing a big meal for supper. We decided to go to downtown Akumal and get something light at the Beach Bar. Karen and I drove while the others walked. The evening streets were alive with natives and tourists alike enjoying the excitement of a Friday night. A spin-off rock group from the "Grateful Dead" called "The String Cheese Incident" was plying in the Akumal "cultural center". The group featured one former member from the "Dead", and familiar rhythms echoed through the streets as we drove by. It was completely dark when we parked by the Beach Bar, and we were glad to see one of the many security guards step out from the shadows. They do a nice job of making tourists feel safe and secure. At the Beach Bar we all ate soups and salads and I tried a cheeseburger. We finished with key-lime pie and coconut ice cream. It all went down very nicely. We returned to our condo about 8:00, ready to call it a night. We found that the sun goes down very early in December, about 4:30 PM, and it gets light about 5:30 AM. We structured our days around the light, getting up early, and going to bed early.
Akumal Pueblo, 12/5 Saturday
The day came in typical of one you might expect in Paradise; warm and cloudless, the blue skies soft and inviting as the early morning sun began its ascent over the blue Caribbean sea. Saturday was another opportunity to visit the open-air market and buy more fruits and vegetables. While we were there, Shelley bought a hammock from the street vendor across from the Super Chomak. Then we drove to Akumal Pueblo where most of the natives live. Sometimes called South Akumal, Akumal Pueblo is straight across the road from Akumal, and the houses and shops reflect a lack of affluence found in the more tourist centered Akumal. What you do see is a lot of smiles and happiness reflected in the faces of the children and adults you meet in Akumal Pueblo.
After asking directions from a slightly intoxicated Mexican, we found our way to the local tortilleria where we patiently waited for the owner to fill orders for the locals before filling ours. While waiting, we observed the tortillas "in production" in the back room. Eventually, we got our "dos killos" of tortillas and proceeded out the door, giving away school supplies to the ever-growing group of children outside. Then we traveled back to the Vista Del Mar on roads so bumpy and pot- holed, that we could have used a 4-wheel drive. The tortillas were very tasty, as evidenced by the long lines of locals waiting to acquire them.
We spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing on the beach in front of our condo, and everyone snorkled. Tom made the most exciting discovery when he spotted a sea turtle and spent some time following it around. In the evening we drove back to Akumal to "browse". We bought some Akumal shirts, postcards and stamps. Native children were roaming the streets carrying tin cans filled with candles that provided meager lighting against the dark night. They were also carrying festively wrapped boxes that contained pictures of "Our Lady of Guadeloupe". The kids were asking for money so that they could buy gifts and offerings for the Lady. The "Our Lady of Guadeloupe" event is a national holiday in Mexico, and the natives get very involved with the rituals and ceremonies. The "String Cheese Incident" was playing again in Akumal and a large assortment of old hippies was hanging out in the Akumal area creating a festive atmosphere. We returned to our condo and prepared an adequate meal of Mexican leftovers. After that we retired to the deck to watch a beautiful moonrise over Cozumel until time to retire, thus concluding another beautiful day in tropical heaven.
Fate dealt me a setback this morning. A minor stuffy nose blew up into a raging sinus infection, and I felt lousy. The morning started with eggs, potatoes and ham prepared for all of us by Chef Randy. After some discussion about what to do, it was decided that because I was not feeling well, I would stay home, rest and watch Preston and Lauren while the others explored Playa Del Carmen, and did some shopping. After the others left for Playa, the kids and I retired to the beach for some recreation. Preston had already found a friend his age named Jacob. Jacob lives in Colorado, and he and Preston had already formed that magical bond that young boys find so easy to forge. They had a great time riding the waves that break over the reef of Half Moon Bay. What a great place for kids! You can be two hundred yards off shore and still be able to touch bottom! The water is as warm as a bathtub, and it abounds with fish and other marine life. About 1:00 PM, I called Preston in from the water, and we all had some "quiet" time for homework and journal writing. I read some of the completed parts of my journal to Lauren and Preston, and they were inspired to write their own "journals" and share them with me. It was a lot of fun.
Jacob and Preston returned to riding the waves about 2:30, and I took Lauren out for a "swim", which consisted of wading up to our knees in the warm, tropical water. The Playa people returned about 3:30 with excited descriptions of the buzz of Playa and their successful "regatea"(bargaining). They found a fantastic place for "sopa de lima" (lime soup), which just happened to be called "Karen's Grill". During their shopping, Karen bought a beautiful Mexican Sunface for Rod and Shandra, and they all enjoyed the greatly expanded "happy hour" which lasts from 10:00 AM to 8:00 PM! And by the way, they DO put tequila in those margaritas! Karen also purchased some antibiotics in Playa for my sinus infection. It is amazing how many medicines can be obtained without a prescription in Mexico. I started taking the drugs in the afternoon, and was starting to notice marked improvement by the evening.
The afternoon provided more fantastic snorkeling with Mary and Randy spotting a huge StingRay in the shallows. It was much more humid today with higher temperatures and sunny skies. The Playa group had eaten a big lunch, so no one felt like preparing a big meal for supper. We decided to go to downtown Akumal and get something light at the Beach Bar. Karen and I drove while the others walked. The evening streets were alive with natives and tourists alike enjoying the excitement of a Friday night. A spin-off rock group from the "Grateful Dead" called "The String Cheese Incident" was plying in the Akumal "cultural center". The group featured one former member from the "Dead", and familiar rhythms echoed through the streets as we drove by. It was completely dark when we parked by the Beach Bar, and we were glad to see one of the many security guards step out from the shadows. They do a nice job of making tourists feel safe and secure. At the Beach Bar we all ate soups and salads and I tried a cheeseburger. We finished with key-lime pie and coconut ice cream. It all went down very nicely. We returned to our condo about 8:00, ready to call it a night. We found that the sun goes down very early in December, about 4:30 PM, and it gets light about 5:30 AM. We structured our days around the light, getting up early, and going to bed early.
Akumal Pueblo, 12/5 Saturday
The day came in typical of one you might expect in Paradise; warm and cloudless, the blue skies soft and inviting as the early morning sun began its ascent over the blue Caribbean sea. Saturday was another opportunity to visit the open-air market and buy more fruits and vegetables. While we were there, Shelley bought a hammock from the street vendor across from the Super Chomak. Then we drove to Akumal Pueblo where most of the natives live. Sometimes called South Akumal, Akumal Pueblo is straight across the road from Akumal, and the houses and shops reflect a lack of affluence found in the more tourist centered Akumal. What you do see is a lot of smiles and happiness reflected in the faces of the children and adults you meet in Akumal Pueblo.
After asking directions from a slightly intoxicated Mexican, we found our way to the local tortilleria where we patiently waited for the owner to fill orders for the locals before filling ours. While waiting, we observed the tortillas "in production" in the back room. Eventually, we got our "dos killos" of tortillas and proceeded out the door, giving away school supplies to the ever-growing group of children outside. Then we traveled back to the Vista Del Mar on roads so bumpy and pot- holed, that we could have used a 4-wheel drive. The tortillas were very tasty, as evidenced by the long lines of locals waiting to acquire them.
We spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing on the beach in front of our condo, and everyone snorkled. Tom made the most exciting discovery when he spotted a sea turtle and spent some time following it around. In the evening we drove back to Akumal to "browse". We bought some Akumal shirts, postcards and stamps. Native children were roaming the streets carrying tin cans filled with candles that provided meager lighting against the dark night. They were also carrying festively wrapped boxes that contained pictures of "Our Lady of Guadeloupe". The kids were asking for money so that they could buy gifts and offerings for the Lady. The "Our Lady of Guadeloupe" event is a national holiday in Mexico, and the natives get very involved with the rituals and ceremonies. The "String Cheese Incident" was playing again in Akumal and a large assortment of old hippies was hanging out in the Akumal area creating a festive atmosphere. We returned to our condo and prepared an adequate meal of Mexican leftovers. After that we retired to the deck to watch a beautiful moonrise over Cozumel until time to retire, thus concluding another beautiful day in tropical heaven.
Voyage To Turquoise Waters of Half Moon Bay, Akumal (Day 2-3)
Half Moon Bay, 12/2 Wednesday
The inexorable forces of jet lag forced us from our comfortable bed just after sunrise. After marveling at the early morning beauty of the Caribbean as viewed from our balcony, we took a brisk walk to reacquaint and acclimatize ourselves to our Half Moon Bay neighborhood. As we walked, we found flowers of the most intricate design blooming profusely in a multitude of colorful patterns. We also discovered banana and coconut trees growing nearby, and the ever-present geckos scurrying along the whitewashed walls of the condos. After our walk, we drove to Akumal to visit the Super-Chomak and the competing Super Pueblo markets. As it was Wednesday, we were able to take in the open-air fruit and vegetable market across the street from the Super Chomak. There, we were able to buy a variety of fresh fruits and vegetables to compliment the canned goods and staples purchased from the two market places. We especially bought a lot of "cerveza fria". We like Superior the best, but Modello and Tecate are also excellent. We would have consumed Dos XX, but we can get that in Oregon.
After shopping, we stopped at "la officina de cambio"(exchange office) and changed some traveler's checks into pesos. Here we noticed more slowing of time, as the clerk was in no hurry to exchange our money. It felt good to be a part of the slow down, and we had no trouble adjusting. We returned to the condo and spent some glorious hours on the patio drinking cervezas and relearning how to relax. Later that afternoon, Karen and Mary bargained with an old Mexican who had walked up the beach selling silver bracelets and chains. Like most of the locals, he was very proud of his children and grandchildren, and responded enthusiastically to our questions about them. Although our speaking abilities in Spanish were quite limited, he patiently made polite conversation with us. At the conclusion of the bargaining, done mostly in Spanish, Mary offered him some pencils and notebooks that she and Tom had brought to give to schoolchildren. She let him know that they were for his "ninos". He was so touched by this gesture, that he gave her two free bracelets. Later, other local children came up the beach and we gave them school supplies also. They returned in a few hours and sang for us, and we gave them a few pesos. Most of us had our first extensive snorkeling experience that day. Half Moon Bay is rich in intricate coral formations that provide homes for hundreds of different species of large and small tropical fish. We saw large purple and blue fish, stripped fish with florescent colors and pronounced dots, and many others, large and small, representing every color of the rainbow.
After snorkeling, we realized that we really did remember how to relax, and so we drank some more cervezas until time to prepare dinner. We cooked up some black beans and rice, and served them with fresh salsa made from the vegetables purchased earlier in the day and some fresh tortillas. With cervezas and fresh limes to drink, we enjoyed a hearty meal. The moon rose full on the evening water, further lifting our spirits and making us feel especially fortunate to be in such a paradise. Later that night, we walked on the full moonlit beach and rediscovered the endless, fascinating energy that this special place always offers.
Chemuyil, 12/3 Thursday
Up to this point, the weather had featured puffy cumulus clouds accompanied by warm breezes and temperatures in the low 80's, and a few rain showers on Tuesday and Wednesday. Thursday morning dawned without the usual clouds, and the temperature increased as a result.
We started with an outstanding breakfast at "La Buena Vida", and then returned to our condo for a morning round of snorkeling. Some of us were lucky enough to see some gigantic parrotfish displaying their beautiful rainbow colors as they fed on the coral with a distinct crunching sound.
In the early afternoon, we traveled to Chemuyil to shop in a more native environment. Our first stop was the "tortilleria" where we bought the last half-kilo of tortillas, generously offered to us by a native lady who had actually bought the last tortillas available for the day. We realized that we had to be there earlier than 1:00 PM, if we wanted to get any fresh tortillas. When we exited the "tortilleria", we found ourselves surrounded by children who had seen our bright red Tusuro drive up. The native children always show a fascination for the "gringos". Next, we went to the "panaderia", where we acquired a delicious variety of baked goods, hot out of the oven. We couldn't refuse anything he offered, and wound up buying several dozen items to the owner's amazement and delight! Then it was on to the "mercado" for some inexpensive Superior cerveza, and some black beans. Our accompanying gaggle of children increased in numbers as we traveled. Our last stop was the "fruteria", where we loaded up on more fruits and vegetables for our future dinners and salsas. We were delighted to find that we could actually converse in Spanish at all stops and make ourselves understood.
After shopping at Chemuyil, we returned for another round of snorkeling. I made a wonderful discovery of a large, beautiful pink conch shell buried in the sand. After carefully inspecting it and determining that there were no "occupants", I captured it and brought it back to shore with me. What a wonderful memory of Half Moon Bay and the many treasures within!
That evening we put together an exotic meal of "papas Mexicana" (potatos with fresh salsa). We included rice, refried beans and a fresh fruit salad. Margaritas and Mai Tai's were mixed, and dinner quickly became another Fiesta! In the middle of preparations, Shelley and I had to make a run to the Super Chomak to get more cheese, avocados and limes. We found that you can't have too many fresh avocados and limes. They are tremendously delicious here, and we ate copious amounts of them. Once again I had the fun experience of conversing successfully in Spanish with the clerk at the meat and cheese counter.
That evening after supper, we relaxed outdoors under a full moon that was throwing a beautiful silver streak across the waters directly towards our condo. Preston and Tom discovered crabs and other night creatures occupying the sands near the beaches. They had a lot of fun exploring them with their small flashlights, but were careful not to disturb things too much or hurt anything. There is no more beautiful place on earth than Half Moon Bay when lit by the full moon on a soft, tropical December night. We all sat in silence and realization of how fortunate we were to experience such beauty.
The inexorable forces of jet lag forced us from our comfortable bed just after sunrise. After marveling at the early morning beauty of the Caribbean as viewed from our balcony, we took a brisk walk to reacquaint and acclimatize ourselves to our Half Moon Bay neighborhood. As we walked, we found flowers of the most intricate design blooming profusely in a multitude of colorful patterns. We also discovered banana and coconut trees growing nearby, and the ever-present geckos scurrying along the whitewashed walls of the condos. After our walk, we drove to Akumal to visit the Super-Chomak and the competing Super Pueblo markets. As it was Wednesday, we were able to take in the open-air fruit and vegetable market across the street from the Super Chomak. There, we were able to buy a variety of fresh fruits and vegetables to compliment the canned goods and staples purchased from the two market places. We especially bought a lot of "cerveza fria". We like Superior the best, but Modello and Tecate are also excellent. We would have consumed Dos XX, but we can get that in Oregon.
After shopping, we stopped at "la officina de cambio"(exchange office) and changed some traveler's checks into pesos. Here we noticed more slowing of time, as the clerk was in no hurry to exchange our money. It felt good to be a part of the slow down, and we had no trouble adjusting. We returned to the condo and spent some glorious hours on the patio drinking cervezas and relearning how to relax. Later that afternoon, Karen and Mary bargained with an old Mexican who had walked up the beach selling silver bracelets and chains. Like most of the locals, he was very proud of his children and grandchildren, and responded enthusiastically to our questions about them. Although our speaking abilities in Spanish were quite limited, he patiently made polite conversation with us. At the conclusion of the bargaining, done mostly in Spanish, Mary offered him some pencils and notebooks that she and Tom had brought to give to schoolchildren. She let him know that they were for his "ninos". He was so touched by this gesture, that he gave her two free bracelets. Later, other local children came up the beach and we gave them school supplies also. They returned in a few hours and sang for us, and we gave them a few pesos. Most of us had our first extensive snorkeling experience that day. Half Moon Bay is rich in intricate coral formations that provide homes for hundreds of different species of large and small tropical fish. We saw large purple and blue fish, stripped fish with florescent colors and pronounced dots, and many others, large and small, representing every color of the rainbow.
After snorkeling, we realized that we really did remember how to relax, and so we drank some more cervezas until time to prepare dinner. We cooked up some black beans and rice, and served them with fresh salsa made from the vegetables purchased earlier in the day and some fresh tortillas. With cervezas and fresh limes to drink, we enjoyed a hearty meal. The moon rose full on the evening water, further lifting our spirits and making us feel especially fortunate to be in such a paradise. Later that night, we walked on the full moonlit beach and rediscovered the endless, fascinating energy that this special place always offers.
Chemuyil, 12/3 Thursday
Up to this point, the weather had featured puffy cumulus clouds accompanied by warm breezes and temperatures in the low 80's, and a few rain showers on Tuesday and Wednesday. Thursday morning dawned without the usual clouds, and the temperature increased as a result.
We started with an outstanding breakfast at "La Buena Vida", and then returned to our condo for a morning round of snorkeling. Some of us were lucky enough to see some gigantic parrotfish displaying their beautiful rainbow colors as they fed on the coral with a distinct crunching sound.
In the early afternoon, we traveled to Chemuyil to shop in a more native environment. Our first stop was the "tortilleria" where we bought the last half-kilo of tortillas, generously offered to us by a native lady who had actually bought the last tortillas available for the day. We realized that we had to be there earlier than 1:00 PM, if we wanted to get any fresh tortillas. When we exited the "tortilleria", we found ourselves surrounded by children who had seen our bright red Tusuro drive up. The native children always show a fascination for the "gringos". Next, we went to the "panaderia", where we acquired a delicious variety of baked goods, hot out of the oven. We couldn't refuse anything he offered, and wound up buying several dozen items to the owner's amazement and delight! Then it was on to the "mercado" for some inexpensive Superior cerveza, and some black beans. Our accompanying gaggle of children increased in numbers as we traveled. Our last stop was the "fruteria", where we loaded up on more fruits and vegetables for our future dinners and salsas. We were delighted to find that we could actually converse in Spanish at all stops and make ourselves understood.
After shopping at Chemuyil, we returned for another round of snorkeling. I made a wonderful discovery of a large, beautiful pink conch shell buried in the sand. After carefully inspecting it and determining that there were no "occupants", I captured it and brought it back to shore with me. What a wonderful memory of Half Moon Bay and the many treasures within!
That evening we put together an exotic meal of "papas Mexicana" (potatos with fresh salsa). We included rice, refried beans and a fresh fruit salad. Margaritas and Mai Tai's were mixed, and dinner quickly became another Fiesta! In the middle of preparations, Shelley and I had to make a run to the Super Chomak to get more cheese, avocados and limes. We found that you can't have too many fresh avocados and limes. They are tremendously delicious here, and we ate copious amounts of them. Once again I had the fun experience of conversing successfully in Spanish with the clerk at the meat and cheese counter.
That evening after supper, we relaxed outdoors under a full moon that was throwing a beautiful silver streak across the waters directly towards our condo. Preston and Tom discovered crabs and other night creatures occupying the sands near the beaches. They had a lot of fun exploring them with their small flashlights, but were careful not to disturb things too much or hurt anything. There is no more beautiful place on earth than Half Moon Bay when lit by the full moon on a soft, tropical December night. We all sat in silence and realization of how fortunate we were to experience such beauty.
Voyage To Turquoise Waters of Half Moon Bay, Akumal (Day 1)
Flight to Mexico, 12/1 Tuesday
The Broadway cab arrived at the Orr house at the ungodly hour of 4:20 AM, but most of us had been up since 3:30 anyway, too excited to sleep. We quickly completed the necessary checklist to secure our daughter and son-in-law's house in Portland, Oregon. Then we piled into the cab, heading for Portland International Airport for the first leg of our trip to the far away sunny shores of Mexico.
After checking our large suitcases at the Alaska Airlines front desk and proceeding through the security gates, the four of us were soon on board, heading for Los Angeles. We had been concerned about the weather, which had been terrible up and down the West Coast for the last few days. Several flights had been canceled due to fog and extremely rainy conditions. Fortunately, at the time of take-off, the sky was mostly clear and we got away right on time. However, the ride to Los Angeles was quite bumpy, and the flight attendants had trouble serving breakfast as the seat belt sign was on most of the flight.
At the Los Angeles airport we walked quickly to the Tom Bradly International Airport which was fortunately close to our Alaska Air arrival gate. After some searching, we found the Mexicana Airlines check-in desk right where it was supposed to be, and checked in for our flight to Cancun. We arrived at the departure gate for our connecting flight with only nine minutes to spare, but soon realized that we were already on "Mexico time" and that the pace was slowing wonderfully. Despite boarding ten minutes behind schedule, the Mexicana crew managed to get things done so that we could leave on time, and after a smooth take-off we were on our way to Cancun!
Our four-hour flight took us down the Mexican mainland until we were parallel with the Yucatan. Then we flew over the Gulf of Mexico until we spotted the unmistakable sandy beaches and turquoise-blue waters that surround Cancun. The flight attendants kept us satisfied, serving up one cold drink after another, to compliment a quite acceptable chicken dinner. We found Mexicana airlines very gracious, and would recommend them any time.
We arrived in Cancun at 4:20 PM, and proceeded through the first stage of customs, getting our travel cards without any problems. We were thankful for our new passports as they really smoothed the way, compared with last time when we traveled to Mexico with only birth certificates. We were also delighted to find that our entire luggage had arrived safely, having been transferred successfully from Alaska to Mexicana Airlines. The Cancun airport was buzzing with late afternoon activity. The usual people were trying to make a dollar by insisting that they carry your luggage in hand trucks. However, we declined, because we knew that it was only 50 feet to the final stage of customs where your baggage is checked for illegal items. At this point either a red or a green light comes on, with most people receiving a green light. Of course I set off the red light. Fortunately, the customs lady took one look at me and realized rather quickly that my middle-aged Grandfather- type gringo looks were not those of a terrorist or drug dealer. She made only a very quick and short inspection of my suitcase. After spotting my snorkeling gear, she asked if we were going to Cozumel. I told her that we were going to Akumal instead, and she said: "Oh that is much better!"
Our next stop was the Budget Rental Car desk in the airport where we had made advance reservations for a rental car. After completing the paper work, we soon encountered three gentlemen who loudly insisted that they were from Budget, and they needed to carry our baggage the short distance to a waiting van. It would have been easy for us to just walk across the street, but we let them carry our bags keeping in mind that these people make their living doing this work. Our bags were loaded into the van, and we were driven around the block to the Budget Rental Car building, just across the street from the airport. Of course we had to offer the customary "propinas" for the transportation. After finishing more paper work in the main building, our car arrived, a bright red "Tusuro" which is the Mexican equivalent of a Nissan Sentra with few frills. After carefully going over the car for existing dings and scratches, we checked all the equipment to make sure that it was there and operating. Then we crammed our entire luggage into the trunk and back seat, and set off to find Highway 307, the beautiful Cancun-Tulum corridor. After finding the right road, we drove south as darkness fell on the Yucatan.
We noticed that significant improvements had been made to the highway since our last visit, but there were still significant areas of construction, with many workers and heavy machinery evident. As we drove, we saw that strange, battery-powered orange lights as well as traditional oil pots illuminated the construction areas. Their yellow-tongued flames lapped at the dark sky, providing an eerie atmosphere for driving. To make things worse, an immense tropical storm rolled in from the Caribbean, dumping intense amounts of rain, and making visibility almost non-existent. The driving was very difficult. The Mexican police were very active, and we saw many blue flashing lights as we journeyed to Akumal. Despite the police, many drivers were greatly exceeding the 80- kilometer speed limit. We kept to the posted speeds and were ignored by the police.
Despite keeping track of our progress in kilometers, I managed to drive right by the turn-off that leads to the Hotel Akumal Caribe. After driving nearly to Tulum, we turned around, and after a few more wrong stops, eventually made our way back to the right turn off. We realized at this point that roads are not as well marked or lit as in the United States, and one has to employ more concentration to find the right directions! After passing through the gate at the Hotel Akumal, we made a left turn and followed the line of condos that are situated on Half Moon Bay. Eventually we arrived at the Vista Del Mar and the 3-bedroom condo that we would be occupying for the next 12 glorious days.
Soon we were reunited with the Orr family who had had come on an earlier flight, all of us having arrived safe and sound in our own particular tropical paradise. We capped off the evening with fish and chicken dinners at "La Buena Vida", a fantastic beach bar and restaurant just a stone's throw down the beach. Then we returned to familiarize ourselves with our room at the Vista Del Mar. The upstairs bedroom had a beautiful balcony overlooking the bay, a Jacuzzi bathtub, satellite television and a flight of stairs leading to the roof, which offered a grand view in all directions. Although there was no air conditioning, an overhead fan provided cooling movement of the air, and fresh breezes blew softly into the bedroom from the nearby Caribbean. A large sliding glass door provided access to the balcony that contained table, chairs, hammock and a panoramic view of the mufti-colored waters below. There was a "kitchenette" with a microwave, small refrigerator and a large bottle of "augua pura". The bed was firm and restful, and there was plenty of closet and drawer space. Downstairs featured a more complete kitchen, two more bedrooms, a bathroom and a living room with sliding glass doors opening to an outside stone patio from which you could walk to the beach not more than 50 feet away. All in all, these were very nice accommodations, and we retired in exhaustion to prepare for 11 days of soul restoration.
The Broadway cab arrived at the Orr house at the ungodly hour of 4:20 AM, but most of us had been up since 3:30 anyway, too excited to sleep. We quickly completed the necessary checklist to secure our daughter and son-in-law's house in Portland, Oregon. Then we piled into the cab, heading for Portland International Airport for the first leg of our trip to the far away sunny shores of Mexico.
After checking our large suitcases at the Alaska Airlines front desk and proceeding through the security gates, the four of us were soon on board, heading for Los Angeles. We had been concerned about the weather, which had been terrible up and down the West Coast for the last few days. Several flights had been canceled due to fog and extremely rainy conditions. Fortunately, at the time of take-off, the sky was mostly clear and we got away right on time. However, the ride to Los Angeles was quite bumpy, and the flight attendants had trouble serving breakfast as the seat belt sign was on most of the flight.
At the Los Angeles airport we walked quickly to the Tom Bradly International Airport which was fortunately close to our Alaska Air arrival gate. After some searching, we found the Mexicana Airlines check-in desk right where it was supposed to be, and checked in for our flight to Cancun. We arrived at the departure gate for our connecting flight with only nine minutes to spare, but soon realized that we were already on "Mexico time" and that the pace was slowing wonderfully. Despite boarding ten minutes behind schedule, the Mexicana crew managed to get things done so that we could leave on time, and after a smooth take-off we were on our way to Cancun!
Our four-hour flight took us down the Mexican mainland until we were parallel with the Yucatan. Then we flew over the Gulf of Mexico until we spotted the unmistakable sandy beaches and turquoise-blue waters that surround Cancun. The flight attendants kept us satisfied, serving up one cold drink after another, to compliment a quite acceptable chicken dinner. We found Mexicana airlines very gracious, and would recommend them any time.
We arrived in Cancun at 4:20 PM, and proceeded through the first stage of customs, getting our travel cards without any problems. We were thankful for our new passports as they really smoothed the way, compared with last time when we traveled to Mexico with only birth certificates. We were also delighted to find that our entire luggage had arrived safely, having been transferred successfully from Alaska to Mexicana Airlines. The Cancun airport was buzzing with late afternoon activity. The usual people were trying to make a dollar by insisting that they carry your luggage in hand trucks. However, we declined, because we knew that it was only 50 feet to the final stage of customs where your baggage is checked for illegal items. At this point either a red or a green light comes on, with most people receiving a green light. Of course I set off the red light. Fortunately, the customs lady took one look at me and realized rather quickly that my middle-aged Grandfather- type gringo looks were not those of a terrorist or drug dealer. She made only a very quick and short inspection of my suitcase. After spotting my snorkeling gear, she asked if we were going to Cozumel. I told her that we were going to Akumal instead, and she said: "Oh that is much better!"
Our next stop was the Budget Rental Car desk in the airport where we had made advance reservations for a rental car. After completing the paper work, we soon encountered three gentlemen who loudly insisted that they were from Budget, and they needed to carry our baggage the short distance to a waiting van. It would have been easy for us to just walk across the street, but we let them carry our bags keeping in mind that these people make their living doing this work. Our bags were loaded into the van, and we were driven around the block to the Budget Rental Car building, just across the street from the airport. Of course we had to offer the customary "propinas" for the transportation. After finishing more paper work in the main building, our car arrived, a bright red "Tusuro" which is the Mexican equivalent of a Nissan Sentra with few frills. After carefully going over the car for existing dings and scratches, we checked all the equipment to make sure that it was there and operating. Then we crammed our entire luggage into the trunk and back seat, and set off to find Highway 307, the beautiful Cancun-Tulum corridor. After finding the right road, we drove south as darkness fell on the Yucatan.
We noticed that significant improvements had been made to the highway since our last visit, but there were still significant areas of construction, with many workers and heavy machinery evident. As we drove, we saw that strange, battery-powered orange lights as well as traditional oil pots illuminated the construction areas. Their yellow-tongued flames lapped at the dark sky, providing an eerie atmosphere for driving. To make things worse, an immense tropical storm rolled in from the Caribbean, dumping intense amounts of rain, and making visibility almost non-existent. The driving was very difficult. The Mexican police were very active, and we saw many blue flashing lights as we journeyed to Akumal. Despite the police, many drivers were greatly exceeding the 80- kilometer speed limit. We kept to the posted speeds and were ignored by the police.
Despite keeping track of our progress in kilometers, I managed to drive right by the turn-off that leads to the Hotel Akumal Caribe. After driving nearly to Tulum, we turned around, and after a few more wrong stops, eventually made our way back to the right turn off. We realized at this point that roads are not as well marked or lit as in the United States, and one has to employ more concentration to find the right directions! After passing through the gate at the Hotel Akumal, we made a left turn and followed the line of condos that are situated on Half Moon Bay. Eventually we arrived at the Vista Del Mar and the 3-bedroom condo that we would be occupying for the next 12 glorious days.
Soon we were reunited with the Orr family who had had come on an earlier flight, all of us having arrived safe and sound in our own particular tropical paradise. We capped off the evening with fish and chicken dinners at "La Buena Vida", a fantastic beach bar and restaurant just a stone's throw down the beach. Then we returned to familiarize ourselves with our room at the Vista Del Mar. The upstairs bedroom had a beautiful balcony overlooking the bay, a Jacuzzi bathtub, satellite television and a flight of stairs leading to the roof, which offered a grand view in all directions. Although there was no air conditioning, an overhead fan provided cooling movement of the air, and fresh breezes blew softly into the bedroom from the nearby Caribbean. A large sliding glass door provided access to the balcony that contained table, chairs, hammock and a panoramic view of the mufti-colored waters below. There was a "kitchenette" with a microwave, small refrigerator and a large bottle of "augua pura". The bed was firm and restful, and there was plenty of closet and drawer space. Downstairs featured a more complete kitchen, two more bedrooms, a bathroom and a living room with sliding glass doors opening to an outside stone patio from which you could walk to the beach not more than 50 feet away. All in all, these were very nice accommodations, and we retired in exhaustion to prepare for 11 days of soul restoration.
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