Posted on: Saturday, November 28
Went from La Paz to Sorata (4 - 5 hours by bus), a village in a valley below the Cordillera Real mountains in Bolivia. Lots of old Spanish colonial buildings with central courtyards built around the town square. There was no Internet access there. Saw a political rally in progress which was very loud and went on all day. We arranged to do the 7 day Illampu Circuit trek at the Sorata Guides Office, in Spanish, for $10 per day for guide and mule. Food is then bought at the market with the guide.
Our guide was Jaime with his mule, Pancho who carried the food, tents and sleeping bags. Jaime cooked for us and we were well fed - porridge for breakfast; bread, cheese, eggs and jam for lunch; soup, pasta/rice/smash with tinned fish for supper and lots of tea. But we had heartburn after 6 days of purifying our drinking water with iodine tablets. The scenery was awesome - we climbed 5 passes over 4600m and the highest was 5045m. Glacial peaks towered above us - the highest (Illampu) at 6300m. It was good that we had Jaime as on the 5th day the local farmers were not very friendly and wanted money ($50) from us but Jaime talked them out of it. One night it was so cold that our tent zip froze solid and we had to wait till sunrise before we could get out.
After a days rest and doing laundry in Sorata, we caught a combination of three buses from Sorata to Puno which took basically the whole day. In the one bus we both sat in front - Jacqui was perched on a child seat you wouldn?t even know existed between the driver and window and Trevor was on a wooden stool on the other side. Staying in a swish hotel, Manco Capac, in Puno for only $10. Its a new hotel and a special price for us - a promotion, but we musn?t tell anyone. The usual price is $20. En suite bathroom and very clean. Today we went by boat to the floating reed islands of Uros on the lake. Over 400 families live on these islands which are made of woven reeds. The newer ones feel bouncy when you walk on them.
From: Cusco, Peru
Posted on: Sunday, December 05
Caught the train from Puno to Cusco. It took 12 hours during the day and the scenery was good. Cost $19 each which is quite expensive for here but the train is much more comfortable than the bus although a bit slower. Spent a day in Cusco and caught another train to km88 to start the Inca trail the next day. The train left at 7am and took 3 hours to km88.
The Inca Trail took 4 days - climbing 3 passes, the highest being 4200m. The first 2 days are more strenuous and longer than the last 2. We saw some impressive Inca ruins on the way and walked through subtropical jungle along the Inca path which has many steps. On the last day we woke up at 4am to walk to the Sun Gate which overlooks the ruined city of Machu Picchu. The idea is to be there at sunrise but it was overcast and misty. It was still special as we got glimpses of Machu Picchu through the mist.
Spent the morning exploring the ruins which are very well preserved and then walked down to the town of Aguas Calientes where we had lunch and a soak in the hot springs before catching the 4.30pm train back to Cusco. It was a scrum just to get on the train and then it was very full for the first hour before many people got off. Trevor had a hot sweaty little boy sleeping with his head on his leg. The rest of the way we were entertained by children playing the panpipes and drums and tourists pulling faces at children.
From: Vilcabamba, Ecuador
Posted on: Thursday, December 16
Flew Cusco - Lima ($59), Lima - Tumbes ($89) on 7/12. Tumbes airport plagued by mosquitos and we got very bitten. Crossed the border to Ecuador at Huaquillas where we were confronted with fraudsters and conmen who wanted to change money at a tenth of the rate using rigged calculators. $1 = 17100 Sucres and they thought we may not notice the missing zero.
Caught bus to Loja ($2,30) in Ecuador?s Southern Sierra and stayed the night there before continuing to Vilcabamba. We are staying at Madre Tierra Health Spa 2 kms from town. Idyllic setting on lush hillside overlooking valley. Lots of trees, colourful birds and hammocks to relax in, as well as a pool and bar. Accommodation in private cabins including delicious breakfasts and dinner, as much as you can eat, $11 each for everything. Jax had spa treatment - jacuzzi, body rub and facial (about $12).
Dragged ourselves away from Madre Tierra for 3 days to do a horse trekking trip to the nearby Podocarpus National Park - $75 each, all inclusive. Rode up the mountain to a refuge on day 1 and walked to nearby waterfalls. On day 2 walked through thick cloud forest, in the rain and mud, to a lake. Dried our clothes by the fire that night. On day 3 rode back down to Vilcabamba. The trail had deteriorated with the rain and we had to get off and walk in places, especially after Jax?s horse slipped and fell with her on it. We also hired bicycles for a couple of hours and explored the back roads of the area.
From: Riobamba, Ecuador
Posted on: Saturday, December 25
Left Vilcabamba 17/12. Caught a lift with Jaime, the owner, to Loja and from there caught the bus to Cuenca - 6hrs. Spent a few days in Cuenca. Went to some hot springs and saw some Christmas parades. Also went to Ingapirca Inca ruins for the day and did some walking. Tried to go to Cajas National Park but the once-a-day, 6am bus didn?t arrive.
Left Cuenca on 21/12 on another 6hr (200km) bus trip to Riobamba in an air-conditioned bus without air conditioning. All we saw was clouds. The road was a branch of the Pan America Highway! The first night in Riobamba we stayed in a terribly depressing hotel called Hostal Segovia ($4 p/rm) - dirty and run by an old hag. Moved very quickly the next morning to Hotel Montecarlo ($8 p/rm) inc. en-suite bathroom and TV. Saw amazing and colourful Christmas parades on 23 and 24/12 - much better than Cuenca. Children dressed up in different costumes doing line dancing behind trucks playing loud music. The themes range from animals to traditional dress and religious. The one was so big we watched for over an hour as it went past.
Went cycling on Christmas Eve to some thermal springs in the surrounding foothills. Over 60km half on tar and half on dirt. Fantastic views of Chimboraza, the highest mountain in Ecuador (6300m) and the smoking volcano. Bathed in the very hot springs which have not finished being built yet. We hired bikes and guide from ProBici, run by a guy who is mountain biking mad and speaks perfect English. It is not his main business but a sideline. Really good quality bicycles - Cannondales, Trek, GT, Klein, Centurion with top of the range components. Had Christmas dinner that night at the hotel restaurant. Had tomales (corn dumplings wrapped in banana leaves), consommé, stuffed turkey with roast potatoes, vegetables, rice and salad, pastry in honey for dessert. Could choose between white wine and champagne. We tried the champagne which was unlike any champagne we?ve ever had - it was not bubbly and tasted more like a dessert wine.
Went Christmas shopping in the traditional markets on Christmas day. Even though it is a holiday, Saturday is still market day and the Indians come from the surrounding countryside to trade. We bought some wall hangings and weavings. Saw cooked pigs heads, racks of ribs getting chopped up by axes, live and dead chickens, live guinea pigs ready to cook, lots of fruit and vegetables. Also tried on a poncho and almost bought a hammock. The Internet cafe is very busy today - lots of people using NetPhone. Thank you for all the Christmas messages - its good to hear from everyone on Christmas day.
From: Riobamba - train ride
Posted on: Friday, December 31
Did the famous 'Nariz del Diablo' rooftop train ride on boxing day. Woke up at 5am (as per the guidebooks suggestion) to buy tickets at 5.30 but ended up waiting till 6.30 before we could buy them. The train was supposed to leave at 7am but the driver never arrived because he was drunk from Christmas festivities. A replacement driver was found but we only left at about 8.30. The 'train' was actually a bus with train wheels and the best views are from the roof rack. We climbed on top after the first stop - it was too cold from the beginning. The train used to go all the way to the coast from Quito but now it only goes from Riobamba to Alausi and then to the Devils Nose and back. This is the most scenic section and the tracks do a couple of switchbacks. However we didn't think it was as exciting as everyone made it out to be. It was expensive too at $15 each.
The next day we went to a nearby carpet weaving town called Guano to go swimming in the first 25m pool we have come across so far. It was filled with spring water and was very cold. We didn't last too long in the water. We have just returned from a 3 day trekking/climbing trip to Carihuairazo mountain (5020m). It is an extinct volcano and lies next to Ecuador's highest mountain, Chimborazo (6300m). We had excellent views of Chimborazo and on the second day walked up to the glacier for acclimatisation. Today we started walking at 4.30am to climb Carihuairazo using crampons and ice axes. We did the trip through Julio Verne - there are pictures on their web site.
From: Quito, Ecuador
Posted on: Saturday, January 01, 2000
Well - the Internet still seems to be working! Spent New Year in Quito. Arrived yesterday afternoon and the streets were packed with people already. They have all these stuffed 'puppets' which represent all the bad things of the past year and they burn them on Old Years Eve. There were also lots of street venders and games and everyone wears masks. On the bus trip from Riobamba to Quito we went through 'road blocks' set up by young guys dressed in drag. It was pretty weird because at about 11pm the party ended - apparently everyone goes home to see the New Year in. So only the Gringos were left in the centre.
From: Quito, Ecuador
Posted on: Saturday, January 01
Well - the Internet still seems to be working! Spent New Year in Quito. Arrived yesterday afternoon and the streets were packed with people already. They have all these stuffed 'puppets' which represent all the bad things of the past year and they burn them on Old Years Eve. There were also lots of street venders and games and everyone wears masks. On the bus trip from Riobamba to Quito we went through 'road blocks' set up by young guys dressed in drag. It was pretty weird because at about 11pm the party ended - apparently everyone goes home to see the New Year in. So only the Gringos were left in the centre.
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