"There were very few tourists, and these were dusty, unshaven and rumpled, probably members of an overland safari making their way down the length of the African continent in a huge communal truck. They were haggling for tomatoes and eggs in the market. They were paying for a glimpse of purgatory. The overland safari means amoebic dysentery and punctures, five thousand miles of potholes and army roadblocks, probably the only package holiday on the globe with no repeat customers. Once is enough to last a lifetime."
Extract from Elephant Song by Wilbur Smith
AFRICAN DISCOVERER ROUTE - LONDON to HARARE
ITINERARY DAY DATE
ENGLAND 1 NOVEMBER 23 -- 1992
FRANCE 2 NOVEMBER 24
SPAIN 6 NOVEMBER 28
CEUTA 9 DECEMBER 1
MOROCCO 10 DECEMBER 2
WESTERN SAHARA 33 DECEMBER 25
MAURITANIA 36 DECEMBER 28
SENEGAL 42 JANUARY 3 -- 1993
GAMBIA 47 JANUARY 8
SENEGAL 49 JANUARY 10
MALI 51 JANUARY 12
BURKINA FASO 65 JANUARY 26
IVORY COAST 69 JANUARY 30
GHANA 79 FEBRUARY 9
TOGO 83 FEBRUARY 13
BENIN 83 FEBRUARY 13
NIGERIA 86 FEBRUARY 16
CAMEROON 92 FEBRUARY 22
GABON 103 MARCH 5
CONGO 107 MARCH 9
ZAIRE 126 MARCH 28
ZAMBIA 151 APRIL 22
ZIMBABWE 153 APRIL 24
BOTAWANA 155 APRIL 26
ZIMBABWE 159 APRIL 30
ENGLAND 171 MAY 12
Day 1 : Monday 23rd November 1992 - Manchester to London
Spent the day getting ready and packing my kit bag, desperately trying to fit everything that might be needed for a six month journey that would take in over twenty countries over a period of six months. Caught the 17:38 train from Stockport to London Euston. Got a taxi to Dalgit?s house in Stretham Hill. Clive, Roy and Jasmine came later for curry. Had a few beers before crashing for the night.
Day 2 : Tuesday 24th November - London to Calais
Slept OK in my sleeping bag for the first time, got a taxi to the Exodus offices in Balham. Sat in the offices as the people on the trip began to arrive. Met Ian, the Aussie Expedition leader and Patric the French co-driver. Tim an experienced traveller, Andy, ex-policeman from Newcastle, Charlie a Glaswegan, two girls, Julia and Bobbie from Southampton, Claire, Kristen, Kenny and Marion the only couple made up the last of the British contingent. Mark from Canada, Metta, Metta, Lars, Rikke, Mike, Charlotte and Niels from Denmark arrived together, plus Jo from Australia. We had to get a normal coach to Dover and pick up the truck in France because it was not licensed in the UK. Uneventful journey, with everyone asking each other why they had joined the expedition. Had to wait a hour for the ferry, the crossing was calm, but cold on deck. Had our last English meal of fish ?n? chips in the restaurant, then went for a couple of beers in the bar. The truck was parked in a secure area at Calais, we tried our best to get our luggage on board, soon realising that this is going to be a very cramped trip with a full compliment of twenty members. The youngest member at 18 , Esther from Holland was dropped off by her parents, we then set off in the dark to a camp site not far from the docks. After watching Ian and Patric erect a tent, we began the task ourselves. Me and Charlie did not have much luck, with the thing threatening to collapse at any moment. Next followed a cooking demonstration by Patric, using the basic utensils that will be used almost every night. We were then called to the truck to be given a talk by Ian, it lasted hours and covered thing such as equipment, cooking, cleaning and shopping rota?s and basically what to expect as we headed south through some of the most remote and dangerous countries on earth. Volunteers were sought for tent packing ( Jo ), food kitty ( Julia ), bar ( Kenny ), Truck Guard ( Mike ) and water ( Me ). Got in the tent at about 11:00 and lay awake with the cold, thinking about what lies ahead. I am already beginning to worry that the vast majority of my kit consists of things more suited to the heat of the jungle than crossing Europe in the winter.Our First Night
Day 3 : Wednesday 25th November - Calais to Rouen
My fears about the stability of the tent were confirmed when the whole thing began to collapse. With a force 7 gale blowing in from the channel it soon became a sad heap of pegs, poles, ropes and canvass on a patch of muddy grass. Me and Charlie soon came to the decision to spend the remainder of the night in the shower block. The whole field was filled the people chasing stuff being blown away by the ever increasing gale, very soon we were all occupying the shower block with the exception of Ian and Patric in the truck and Tim underneath it. After a few miserable hours, me Charlie and Kristen decided to walk into town to find a café which we did after about 20 minutes. Had a coffee and a pastrie, then made our way back to the camp site with dawn breaking. A dull morning was spent with us trying to pack the wet tents into their bags which was done with considerable difficulty, after that we had breakfast in the open, Morning after the Gale We made use of the local hypermarché to stock up on food for our time in Europe and things that we realised we had omitted from our own personal items. The overloaded, 21 year old ex-army Bedford truck only managed a maximum speed of 45mph, which seemed very slow on the autoroute. We had lunch at the side of the road, just a bit of french bread and cheese, then it was back on the truck to continue towards Rouen. I slept on the truck for the next three hours, as did most people, catching up on the non-existent sleep of the previous night. We stopped in a lay-by to pitch our tents, made a better job of it this time as there was no wind, only rain. In bed for 9, began to feel a bit better about things, and had quite a good nights sleep.
Day 4: Thursday 26th November - Rouen to Poitiers
To make the most of the light, we are getting up just before dawn, at 7:00. Packed the tent correctly, though my sleeping bag and clothes are cold and damp just like the weather. On the truck for a couple of hours, stopping at a garage-shop for the toilets. Drove on to a town called Alecon, had a walk round and a bite to eat from a boulaungerie. Continued on to a campsite near Poitiers, torrential rain as we put the tents up, the cook group had to put the cook tent up which connects to the side of the truck like an awning on a caravan. Realised that Danish cooking leaves a lot to be desired with Metta, Metta and Niels attempting their first meal. After having a shower, went to a local bar with Lars and Charlie, had a couple of strong beers, but did not sleep very well with the cold and damp.
Day 5 : Friday 27th November - Poitiers to Bordeaux
Made good progress to Bordeaux, arriving at 12:30. Stopped in the city for a couple of hours. When we park up like this, the truck is never left alone, a minimum of two people must guard it, usually for ? hour at a time. While I was on truck guard, I met a Jock making his living playing bagpipes abroad. Me and Charlie Drove only a few miles to a well equipped camp site, stopping with a few hours of light left. Had a game of football in the afternoon followed by a few beers round a big camp fire. Quite a good night, weather getting a bit warmer.
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